CARTIER

Tank à Guichets: dare to live out of step

A true cult object, the Tank de Cartier reveals its potential for attraction all the more powerfully because its geometric aesthetic is enhanced by an original time reading. With the Tank à Guichets de Cartier Privée, dandies are in for a treat. First introduced in 1928, this icon of the early Art Deco period is back in the limelight this year.

This watch, which can be said to offer a new approach to the passage of time, reinvents the volumes of the Tank by offering an original way of telling the time. This marvel comes in two different versions. A version with a case in yellow gold, pink gold or platinum – 37.6 mm by 24.8 mm and 6 mm thick – features a satin-finished gold face with two windows. The first, square-shaped at 12 o’clock, displays the jumping hours, while the second, in an arc of a circle at 6 o’clock, shows the so-called dragging minutes (which slide past the triangle-shaped indicator).

The other iteration, exclusively in platinum and in a limited edition, still features a dial display with apertures, but with a different reading configuration. The square jumping-hour aperture opens at 11 o’clock, while the circular-arc aperture opens at 5 o’clock. All these marvels are powered by a hand-wound mechanical calibre 9755 MC, which is wound by means of a discreet winding crown positioned at 12 o’clock, as on the original 1928 version.

Magnificently balanced and instantly recognisable, these sober and elegant Tank à Guichets are served on alligator leather straps matching the colour of the minute track. They will undoubtedly appeal to dandies and collectors of rare watch references.

Limited edition of 200 – platinum – €66,000
Yellow gold – Green alligator bracelet– €52,000
Rose gold – Grey alligator bracelet – €52,000
Platinum – Burgundy bracelet – €60,000

Technical details:

Tank à Guichets watch. Platinum. Black alligator bracelet. Hour window at 10 o’clock, minute window at 4 o’clock, gold-finished discs with Arabic numeral hour markers and burgundy minute track. Limited and numbered edition of 200.
Tank à Guichets watch. Yellow gold. Green alligator bracelet. Hour window at 12 o’clock, minute window at 6 o’clock, gold-finish discs with green Arabic numeral hour markers and minute track.
Tank à Guichets watch. Pink gold. Dark grey alligator bracelet. Hour window at 12 o’clock, minute window at 6 o’clock, gold-finished discs with Arabic numeral hour markers and dark grey minute track.
Tank à Guichets watch. In platinum. Bordeaux alligator bracelet. Hour window at 12 o’clock, minute window at 6 o’clock, gold-finished discs with Arabic numeral hour markers and burgundy minute track.

All are powered by the 9755 MC manual movement. Dimensions: 37.6 x 24.8 mm, thickness: 6 mm. Not water-resistant.

Santos small model: standing on your own two feet

The ability to fly has been a human desire since Icarus. One of the pioneers in the art of getting heavier-than-air aircraft powered by internal combustion engines into the air was the Brazilian dandy and balloonist Alberto Santos-Dumont. Convinced he could lift the plane he was building off the ground, he asked his friend Louis Cartier to design an innovative wristwatch for him, capable of measuring the duration of his flights aboard his strange flying machines. Cartier created the timepiece that today bears the name Santos.

To pay tribute to this adventure, Cartier is offering a ‘small model’ version of this historic watch. Powered by a Swiss-made precision quartz movement, this marvel has a 7-sided crown adorned with a synthetic spinel for the steel version and a sapphire crystal for the all-gold variation. The manufacture has equipped these models – measuring 27 mm x 34.5 mm by 7.08 mm and water-resistant to 30 metres – with a practical and intuitive interchangeable strap system. Thanks to this system, the watch head can be slipped over a blue calfskin leather strap. The latter, more delicate and dressy, is fastened to the wrist by a pin buckle.

In steel – €6,550
In yellow gold – €33,300

Technical details:

Santos watch, small model, quartz movement. Yellow gold / stainless steel case, 7-sided crown adorned with a faceted sapphire / faceted synthetic spinel, silvered sunray dial, sword-shaped blued steel hands, sapphire crystal. Yellow gold / stainless steel bracelet, second strap in calfskin / dark blue alligator with yellow gold / stainless steel buckle. Both straps are fitted with an interchangeable system. Dimensions: 27 mm x 34.5 mm, thickness: 7.08 mm. Water-resistant to 3 bars (~30 metres).

Tank Louis Cartier : solar sobriety

It is often said that the dial of a watch is, in a way, its face. The brighter it is, the more it attracts the eye and contributes to the positive appreciation of the model it equips. Cartier has understood this. This is why it is offering a new series of large Tank Louis Cartier watches with dials treated in a special way. Here, it’s not just a question of polishing their anthracite grey or coppery gold surface.

To ensure that they are even more eye-catching, the styling department has opted for laser treatment to maximise the radiance effect. The result is a watch in 18-carat yellow gold or pure platinum with an intense radiance. Delicate with their generously reasonable size (33.7 x 25.5 mm and 6.6 mm thick), these references are powered by a Manufacture hand-wound mechanical calibre, the 1917MC. They are wound by activating the circular-grained winding crown, set with a sapphire for the 18-carat yellow gold version and a ruby for the platinum version. Streamlined to the extreme in order to reveal their practically divine proportions, these Tank de Cartier models, water-resistant to 30 metres, are worn on a black alligator strap for the yellow gold version, and a grey alligator strap for the platinum model.

Platinium – €20,700
Yellow gold – €14,800

Technical details:

Louis Cartier Tank watch, large model, hand-wound mechanical movement, calibre 1917 MC. Yellow gold / platinum case. Dimensions: 33.7 x 25.5 mm, thickness: 6.6 mm. Dial: golden sunray effect / grey sunray effect. Yellow gold circular-grained crown adorned with a sapphire / platinum crown adorned with a ruby. Sword-shaped steel hands, yellow gold finish / rhodium finish. Strap in semi-matt black alligator leather / semi-matt grey alligator leather. Water-resistant to 3 bars (approx. 30 metres).

Tank Louis Cartier automatic: perpetual renewal

In 1917, Louis Cartier designed the first Tank, whose geometric rigour is said to have been inspired by the armoured vehicles that had just arrived on the battlefields of the Great War. Five years later, the ‘Louis Cartier’ Tank was born, with its stretched rectangular dial and rounded stretchers.

The elegance and clarity of its pure design have enabled the Tank Louis Cartier to cross the century with remarkable ease. This year, Cartier has chosen to offer a large-scale version (38.1 x 27.75 mm) of this iconic timepiece in order to accommodate a new-generation self-winding Manufacture movement in its 18-carat pink or yellow gold case. Called the 1899 MC, it powers a time-measuring instrument whose lines, though enhanced, have lost none of their graphic power. The silvered flinqué dial is embellished with the characteristic railway track, Roman numerals, the secret signature (in the ‘V’ of the number ‘VI’) and blued sword-shaped hands. To complete the aesthetic codes of Cartier watches, the parallel stretchers and the circular-grained winding crown topped with a sapphire crystal harmonise the whole. This edition is worn on a semi-matt grey (yellow gold) or brown (pink gold) alligator strap.

€16,100

See the technical specifications of the Tank Louis Cartier in yellow gold.

Ballon Bleu : A Midsummer Night’s Dream

The Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch, a time-measuring instrument with a gentle shape like a pebble rolled by water in a mountain stream, comes this year with a white gold case measuring 36 mm in diameter and set with 54 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.79 carat.

Powered by a self-winding mechanical movement, it is adorned with an adventurous glass dial symbolising the celestial vault on a cloudless night. In order to add a functionality that is always useful, Cartier has equipped this 12.11 mm-thick instrument, water-resistant to 30 metres, with a day-night indicator that can be read through an aperture between 10 and 11 o’clock and takes the form of a poetic representation of our firmament. Protected by a sapphire crystal, the dial features steel sword-shaped hands, adjustable by means of the fluted crown adorned with a cabochon sapphire. Like a bubble of softness, this Ballon Bleu is matched with a varnished blue sequined alligator strap, fitted with a white gold pin buckle.

€32,800

Technical details:

Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch, 36 mm. Mechanical movement with automatic winding, day/night. White gold case set with 54 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.79 carat. Fluted crown adorned with a cabochon sapphire. Adventurine glass dial with day and night indicator disc. Sword-shaped hands in rhodium-plated steel. Sapphire crystal. Varnished sequined blue alligator strap with white gold pin buckle. Case thickness: 12.11 mm. Water-resistant to 3 bar (~30 metres).

Panthère Jewellery watch

At the crossroads of watchmaking and jewellery expertise, this new piece boldly embodies Cartier’s stylistic heritage. A veritable miniature sculpture, a three-dimensional panther, the iconic emblem, seems ready to pounce. This striking figure takes its place on a ‘you & me’ bracelet, a visual dialogue between the majestic animal and a subtly refined watch.

Available in yellow or white gold, this piece showcases exceptional sculptural work. The curves of the fawn, its taut muscles, the finesse of its ears and nose, and even the delicacy of its paw pads are reproduced with remarkable realism. The contrast is skilfully orchestrated between the brilliance of the polished gold, the black lacquer spots and the tsavorite eyes, echoing the black lacquer dial topped by a diamond-paved bezel. At 12 o’clock, a solitaire diamond serves as an index, punctuating the whole with a touch of light. More than just a timepiece, this creation once again affirms the creative strength of the Maison. Faithful to its totem animal, which it has constantly reinterpreted for decades, it has created a timepiece of character, combining tradition and innovation with virtuosity.

€84,000 euros

See the technical specifications of the Panthère Jewellery watch.

Technical details :
Yellow gold. Set with 23 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.78 ct). The panther with tsavorite eyes, onyx nose and black lacquer spots. Quartz movement. Wrist size available in 150/160/170 mm. Water-resistant to 3 bars (approx. 30 metres).

CARTIER WEBSITE

TRILOBE

Une Folle Journée Rhodium-Plated : celebrating space and light

Bold and creative, the three editions of the Une Folle Journée Éditions Rhodiées watch are a veritable libertarian manifesto in which telling the time is seen in a new dimension. The unconventional three-dimensional display has proved as popular as ever since its launch.

It is back this year, bathed in light thanks to the rhodium-plated treatment of the mechanism that brings it to life. The way in which the hours, minutes and seconds are presented is not just a question of aesthetics, but a veritable narrative art form in which every moment spent contemplating this mechanical marvel is seen as a celebration of the passing of time.

Its refined, contemporary design places this unusual timepiece in the family of kinetic sculptures. Its voluminous dial, with its black, green or blue rings set against a shiny or satin-finish rhodium-plated mechanism, plays on textures and light to capture the eye in a prodigious way. Beyond its purely aesthetic appeal, this new creation conveys a sense of freedom and creativity that is characteristic of this young Maison, driven by true enthusiasts.

This disruptive approach, creating a unique reading experience, will encourage enthusiasts of fine mechanics to turn the piece over to discover the X-Centric calibre with its manufacture micro-rotor automatic winding. Fascinatingly, it sets the titanium-aluminium-vanadium rings in motion, appearing to float in the void beneath their sapphire dome to create an unprecedented user experience. Magnificently poetic, these new models, water-resistant to 50 metres, are worn on an alligator strap.

€20,400

Technical details:

Movement
X-Centric caliber, self-winding mechanical movement with a micro-rotor
Power reserve: 48 hours
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph (4Hz)
Functional jewels: 33
Total movement parts: 196
Bridge treatment: PVD rhodium-plated
Movement dimensions
Thickness: 6.49 mm
Diameter: 35.2 mm
Patent
Display concept composed of 3 display elements, representing the hours, minutes, and running seconds
Indications
Hours, minutes, and seconds via rotating rings and fixed pointer
Titanium rings colored using a DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) process
Pad-printed numerals
Case
Grade 5 titanium case
Mirror-polished surfaces alternating with satin-finished treatments
Domed bezel with sapphire crystal and ARDUR anti-reflective coating Multi-layer – 1.2 mm thick
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal case back
Push-button crown
Water resistance tested to a pressure of 5 bar (≈ 50 meters)
Case dimensions
Thickness: 17.8 mm
Dome height: 10.2 mm
Diameter: 40.5 mm
Lug to lug height: 48 mm
Lug width: 20 mm
Strap
Leather with pin buckle

Le Temps Retrouvé : an emotional hour

With this intriguing instrument, the flow of the day can be seen in the eyes and experienced in a sensory way. For Time Regained is a living mechanical sculpture that challenges the codes of time display and the way we experience it. Indeed, inside the bust, made of transmuted marble, lies a structure designed by an artist specializing in the creation of kinetic works.

Based in Sainte-Croix, Switzerland, Manufacture Masur is Trilobe’s partner in the creation of this exceptional piece. The hours flow by thanks to an anchor escapement and a gear train extrapolated from a Paris clock, and are read thanks to the opening of the petals of a rosette placed in place of the sculpture’s ears. The minutes, meanwhile, can be guessed by the movement of the eyes. Here, there’s no question of reading them precisely, but that doesn’t matter, because the idea is to live a unique experience. This is also why the seconds do not disrupt the flow of this initiation.

However, if you listen closely, you’ll be able to hear the heart of this sculpture beating. And, if you get closer, you’ll also be able to enjoy an olfactory experience. Like the sculptures of ancient Greece (a recent archaeological discovery), this creation releases a delicate fragrance that a nose and master perfumer will custom-create for the person who commissioned one of these works. This technical feat, halfway between an automaton and a clock, is made up of 2,050 components and required 2,000 hours of work. Fascinating, this almost lifelike bust can be personalized by taking on the features of its future patron. A unique creation that Stéphane Gérard Atelier will be responsible for creating.

Price on request

TRILOBE WEBSITE

VACHERON CONSTANTIN, Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grande Complication – La Première :  41 complications for a world record

Grand complication watches have been part of the Vacheron Constantin universe since its founding, exactly 270 years ago. To celebrate this event, the Geneva-based manufacturer, based in Plan-les-Ouates, presented an exceptional watch made as a unique piece. Named Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grande Complication – La Première, this 18-carat white gold watch, 45 mm in diameter and 14.99 mm thick, features a staggering 41 watchmaking information or complications.

Proudly bearing the Hallmark of Geneva, it is unique in its kind and is powered by the in-house hand-wound mechanical caliber, 36 mm in diameter and 10.96 mm thick, bearing the internal reference Cal. 3655. This exceptional heart, made up of no fewer than 1,521 components, including 204 jewels, is a jewel of pure watchmaking mechanics. The instrument, with its innovative design and incredibly sophisticated dials, can implement 41 watchmaking displays and complications. To delight purists, it seemed logical to list all those embedded and displayed on both sides, even if it may seem a bit long.

Thus, the Cabinotier Solaria Ultra Grande Complication watch has, in addition to the classic time display, a day and night indication for the reference city (chosen by its future owner). It displays a second time zone with hours and minutes (24-hour display), accompanied by a day-night indication for the latter. In addition, there are world times for 24 cities. The manual caliber is regulated by a tourbillon incorporating a silicon balance oscillating at 3 Hz. It should be noted that the central civil time display module is coupled to the base caliber, as is the split-seconds chronograph complication, with insulation system (60-minute counter), as well as the Westminster chime minute repeater complication (4 hammers and 4 gongs).

clear

521 / 5 000

Résultats de traduction

Résultat de traduction

This rare musical complication, equipped with a striking mode selector, a crown locking system at the moment of striking and a double-stop hammer system to limit rebound, covers 7 of the 13 patent applications. In addition, this heart incorporates a perpetual calendar with day of the week, date, month and current year with of course the leap indication. The caliber also has a week display allowing the indication of the number of the day of the week (ISO8601 calendar).

The pinnacle of miniaturization, finished with meticulous care, this heart also includes: an astronomical moon phase with the age of the moon; the position of the sun, its rising and setting time, the length of the day and the culmination point of the day star, as well as its height above the horizon according to the reference city. As expected, the instrument provides the equation of time on a tropical wheel. It indicates the declination of the sun, with a three-dimensional Earth showing the latitude of the sun in the northern/southern hemisphere.

An astronomical instrument, it displays sidereal hours and minutes, presents the signs of the astronomical zodiac, reveals the celestial map observable from the reference city and allows the temporal location of celestial objects. Finally, to finish, the beauty receives a power reserve indicator, carried on an external disc at 190°.

41 watch complications
5 rare astronomical functions, including a world first
1 innovative Westminster minute repeater
13 patent applications filed
8 years of development
1,521 components

Price not disclosed, the piece has already been sold.

Technical specifications:

Reference 9600C/000G-231C
Watch certified with the Hallmark of Geneva
Caliber 3655
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Hand-wound mechanical
36 mm diameter, 10.96 mm thick
Power reserve: approx. 72 hours
3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
1,521 components
204 jewels

Indications
Timekeeping (6)
Gregorian perpetual calendar (8)
Lunar indications (3)
Astronomical indications (14)
Striking (5)
Split-seconds chronograph with 2 column wheels (4)
Additional functions (1)
750/1000 white gold case
45 mm diameter, 14.99 mm thick
Transparent case back with metallized sapphire crystal for the constellations

Dial
Face: Black-tinted metal, satin-brushed sunburst with circular satin-brushed rim, rhodium-plated and satin-brushed 750/1000 white gold indexes, sandblasted counters, white transfers,
Earth applique in rhodium-plated 750/1000 3N yellow gold, polished and Sandblasted,
Sun sphere in polished 750/1000 3N yellow gold
Hour and minute hands: 750/1000 white gold, sandblasted
Back: Gray-tinted sapphire crystal with metallization for the celestial vault
Chronograph and split-seconds hands: Lacquered aluminum alloy

Strap
Black technical calfskin with textured effect, calfskin interior, hand-stitched, rolled edge
Folding clasp in 750/1000 white gold

Box & accessories
Les Cabinotiers model
Comes with a correction pencil

Engravings
“Pièce unique”, “Les Cabinotiers” and “AC” coat of arms on the back of the watch

Another novelty

VACHERON CONSTANTIN !

Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface.

Vacheron Constantin celebrates 270 years of uninterrupted activity with three exceptional limited editions from the Traditionnelle collection. A fusion of tradition and innovation, these new timepieces, boasting multiple superlatives, illustrate the manufacturer’s watchmaking expertise through two of its signature features: the openface dial and the retrograde display.

Like the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface, which stands out with its bold and resolutely contemporary design. Crafted from 950/1000 platinum, this 41 mm diameter model houses a particularly high-performance in-house automatic movement. Certified with the Hallmark of Geneva, the caliber is equipped with a perpetual calendar, capable of taking into account the days of the week, the date, the month and leap years up to 2100. Note that the discs corresponding to these calendar indications are made of sapphire, in order to accentuate the transparency of the whole. Present at 6 o’clock, a moon phase display, accurate to the nearest day, adds to this complexity.

The retrograde date display, tinted in blue, occupies the upper part of the dial. The latter features a motif dedicated specifically to the “270th anniversary,” hand-guilloché and inspired by the Maltese cross, the emblem of the Maison. This technique, taken from the archives, echoes the Reference 6068 from 1955, and testifies to the meticulous work of the master guillocheurs. A final detail paying homage to Vacheron Constantin’s traditional techniques: visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, the bridges are decorated with “côte unique,” ​​reappearing in 2021 with the American 1921 Pièce Unique. Limited to just 370 pieces, the watch is delivered on a hand-stitched alligator leather strap, fitted with a half-Maltese cross-shaped pin buckle.

€124,000

Consult the technical details of the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN WEBSITE

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