Shopping at Dubail: a dream Christmas platter
For this exceptional shopping trip, the two enthusiasts — closer than ever — review watches that would make the heart of any amateur or collector beat faster. With remarkable pieces and items that shine as brightly as the shop windows on the Champs-Elysées, this watchmaking escapade promises both expertise and pleasure. Fasten your watch straps, we're taking off for wonderland, where the selection is as precise as a Swiss movement!
FRANK’S CHOICE
BVLGARI, Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic
In six years, Bvlgari’s Octo Finissimo has already captured the attention of the watchmaking world by setting six world records. Since then, the series has added four more records, once again confirming the Maison’s position as a major player in extreme thinness and high complications. Among these records, the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic, found at Dubail, occupies a special place.
When it was launched, the watch marked a new technical feat thanks to its ultra-thin manufacture movement, combining a single-push-piece chronograph, tourbillon and automatic winding with a peripheral rotor in a thickness of only 3.50 mm. Housed in a case measuring 42 mm in diameter and 7.40 mm thick, it was a breathtaking distillation of precision, engineering and dimensional reduction. Unveiled at the 2020 Geneva Watch Days, this Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic version perfectly illustrates Bvlgari’s constant pursuit of innovation. The integration of cutting-edge technologies — horizontal clutch, column wheel and skeleton architecture — demonstrates a high level of precision craftsmanship, mobilised to further push the boundaries of miniaturisation.
2014 – OCTO FINISSIMO MANUAL TOURBILLON – 1st world record – BVL 268 – 1.95 mm
2016 – OCTO FINISSIMO Minute Repeater – 2nd world record – BVL 362 – 3.12 mm
2017 – OCTO FINISSIMO AUTOMATIC – 3rd world record – BVL 138 – 2.23 mm
2018 – OCTO FINISSIMO AUTOMATIC TOURBILLON – 4th world record – BVL 288 – 1.95 mm
2019 – OCTO FINISSIMO AUTOMATIC GMT CHRONOGRAPH – 5th world record – BVL 318 – 3.30 mm
2020 – OCTO FINISSIMO AUTOMATIC SKELETON TOURBILLON CHRONOGRAPH – 6th world record – BVL 388 – 3.50 mm
2021 – OCTO FINISSIMO Perpetual Calendar – 7th world record – BVL 305 – 2.75 mm – 2021 Aiguille d’Or Prize
2022 – OCTO FINISSIMO ULTRA – 8th world record – BVL 180 – 1.80 mm
2024 – OCTO FINISSIMO ULTRA COSC – 9th world record – BVL 180 – 1.70 mm
Ten world records later, the collection continues to set an unprecedented standard in the world of ultra-thin and complicated watches. The Octo Finissimo remains a symbol of performance and technical innovation.
Since then, Bvlgari has set four more world records for thinness, including one at the latest Watches and Wonders exhibition.
€210,000
View the technical details of the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Skeleton Automatic.
CARTIER, Baignoire
Since 1912, the oval shape of the Baignoire watch has demonstrated Cartier’s ability to transform a simple idea into an absolute icon. A refined, discreet ellipse that encapsulates the House’s entire style: timelessly elegant lines and a chic that needs no fanfare to be noticed.
In 2022, there was a change of scenery: Cartier surprised everyone by placing the Baignoire on a bangle bracelet. It was a bold, almost insolent move, reminding us that the luxury brand still views watchmaking through the eyes of a jeweller. The beauty reinvented itself, but remained true to itself. The oval shape remains, but changes tone with this new iteration that enriches the collection. Paved with 227 brilliant-cut diamonds, its yellow gold case – 31.4 mm x 23.1 mm – captures the light. The beaded crown, also in yellow gold, is adorned with an additional diamond.
Beneath the sapphire crystal, the mother-of-pearl dial multiplies iridescent effects and subtly interacts with the sword-shaped hands and Roman numerals (whose secret signature is present in the bar of the ‘X’) with a gold finish. Water-resistant to 30 metres, this delicate timepiece, powered by a quartz movement, is presented on a semi-matt beige alligator leather strap with a subtle glitter effect, adding a touch of softness. This variation on the Baignoire proves once again that Cartier never stands still.
€31,800
View the technical details of the Cartier Baignoire.
GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL, PanoMaticCalendar
At Glashütte Original, mechanics are not tinkered with: they are perfected. To create this PanoMaticCalendar, the Saxon manufacturer brought together watchmakers, designers, engineers and other masters of the minute to produce the 92 calibre: an automatic movement only 7.65 mm thick. This mechanism orchestrates a veritable choreography: off-centre display of hours, minutes and small seconds – the signature feature of the Pano collection – moon phase, Panorama Date without a central bar, and above all a retrograde month display.
All of this is controlled by an annual calendar that knows exactly when to switch from the 30th or 31st to the 1st. The secret? A switching wheel that acts as an internal memory and rotates once a year. It rests on 38 hardened steel balls measuring 0.5 mm – essentially a team of micro-acrobats dedicated to reducing friction. Its irregularly shaped cams trigger the monthly change, while a small, highly disciplined tooth drives the month ring visible on the dial side. The result is an elegant retrograde display under a curved grey-tinted sapphire crystal, where only one black numeral appears at a time.
At 4 o’clock, the Panorama Date sits proudly in its window, perfectly legible thanks to two concentric discs. At 2 o’clock, the moon phase promises accuracy for… 122 years (we’ll call you in 2144 for the correction). Everything is adjusted via the crown, except for the moon phase, which can be adjusted using a discreet side corrector. On the mechanical side, the automatic calibre is equipped with a silicon balance spring resistant to magnetic fields, a 100-hour power reserve, and a bayonet fitting that protects the movement from shocks. The sapphire caseback reveals the Glashütte ribbing, blued screws, three-quarter plate, engraved balance bridge and a 21-carat gold rotor.
This version in 5N red gold, with a silver opaline dial and azure counters, exudes elegance. Gold hands encrusted with Super-LumiNova®, a gold border around the large date window, and a matching moon: everything shines, but never too brightly. The watch comes with a brown nubuck Louisiana alligator leather strap.
With bracelet fitted with a folding clasp – €32,900.
With bracelet fitted with a clasp – €30,500.
View the technical details of this PanoMaticCalendar.
ROLEX, Land-Dweller
No introduction needed! Rolex’s Land-Dweller holds no secrets for us. To find out everything there is to know, I invite you to watch the programme that Frank Sans C dedicated to it and read the accompanying article.
See the technical specifications for the Rolex Land-Dweller in platinum with a blue dial – €64,200
See the technical specifications for the Rolex Land-Dweller in Oystersteel and white dial – €15,350
See the technical specifications for the Rolex Land-Dweller in Everose gold and diamonds – €90,850
ON THE WRIST
GERALD CHARLES, Maestro GC39 25e Anniversary Edition – Selected for Watch of the Year 2025 in the €25,001 to €50,000 category
Limited edition of 100 pieces – €36,000
See the technical details of the Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition.
STEPHAN’S CHOICE
CHOPARD, Alpine Eagle Frozen
Chopard unveils a completely frosty interpretation of the Alpine Eagle model. Named Frozen, this 41 mm watch, crafted from ethical 18-carat white gold, sparkles brightly. Instead of the eagle’s iris motif inherent to the collection, diamonds cascade across the dial, which sparkles like the starry Alpine night thanks to its meticulously executed snow setting.
The brand once again showcases its remarkable expertise in gem-setting, enhancing the case with a bezel set with multicoloured trapezoid-cut sapphires in a rainbow gradient. Between the collection’s eight iconic index screws, the baguette-cut sapphires capture the fleeting nuances of light on ice. Each stone is chosen to reflect this crystalline aesthetic. Beneath this avalanche of gems beats the automatic manufacture movement, visible through the sapphire case back. Designed and assembled in the Maison’s workshops, this calibre, composed of 182 components, offers a comfortable power reserve of approximately 60 hours.
€108,500
View the technical details of the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41.
FRANCK MULLER, Vanguard Crazy Hours
Integrated into the white leather strap, the 32 mm steel case of this Vanguard houses one of Franck Muller’s iconic complications: the Crazy Hours™. On a slightly silvered guilloché white dial, the numerals – hand-painted in different colours – are placed in random order. This disorder is not really disorder at all, because it is in fact completely organised. Powered by a patented automatic movement, the central hour hand jumps from one hour to the next, respectfully following the random numbers placed on the dial, but in the correct order. Confused? Don’t be, because every 60 minutes, the hour hand moves to the next correct number. Meanwhile, the minute hand follows its usual 60-minute cycle. Are the hours crazy at Franck Muller? Not so much, after all…
€15,500
Technical details:
Diameter: 32 x 42.3 mm
Thickness: 9.9 mm
Movement: automatic
Power reserve: 42 hours
Water resistance: 30 metres
Material: steel
JAEGER-LECOULTRE, Reverso Tribute Small Seconds
Created in 1931 to accompany polo players, the Reverso quickly established itself beyond the sports field to become a true icon of watch design. Today, the brand revisits the Reverso Tribute in rose gold with a completely redesigned case. Nearly a millimetre thinner, it is now only 7.56 mm thick, a remarkable feat given the complexity of the reversible mechanism. This mechanism comprises more than 50 components — including nearly 40 dedicated to the pivoting system — all assembled by hand in the Manufacture.
At the heart of this new interpretation, the silver sunray dial takes pride of place. Its luminous appearance is the result of a meticulous process: galvanisation of the base, precise brushing to create a converging sunray pattern, then application of varnish to enhance the shine and visual depth. This silver finish captures the light, offering a palette of shades that change depending on the angle of observation. The faceted applied hour markers, double bar at 12 o’clock and Dauphine hands give the dial a graphic clarity, while the small circular seconds dial harmoniously softens the overall effect. The solid metal case back remains faithful to the Reverso tradition: a surface dedicated to personalisation, secret or visible depending on the owner’s choice.
To reinforce the historical link between the watch and the world of polo, Jaeger-LeCoultre is continuing its collaboration with Casa Fagliano. The rose gold version with a silver dial comes with two interchangeable straps: a two-material canvas/leather model and a black alligator leather strap, both designed to highlight the contemporary elegance of the model.
The watch comes with two Casa Fagliano straps: a dual-material strap made of canvas and leather, and an all-leather strap.
This iteration is powered by a hand-wound mechanical movement comprising 108 components and offering a 42-hour power reserve. Designed specifically for the rectangular shape of the Reverso, it illustrates Jaeger-LeCoultre’s philosophy: adapting the movement to the case to preserve technical and aesthetic harmony.
€25,500
View the technical details of the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds.
ZENITH, Defy Revival A3691
Inspired by the bold 1971 model, the Zenith Defy Revival A3691 watch features a red gradient dial. Incandescent to perfection, it reconnects with the DNA of the collection and echoes the architecture that made the first models famous: a faceted octagonal case, a 14-sided bezel, applied hour markers in grooved blocks and, of course, the ‘ladder’ bracelet by Gay Frères, modernised with a more ergonomic folding clasp.
This return to its roots is in line with 1969, a pivotal year in which the Manufacture simultaneously unveiled the El Primero calibre and the first generation of Defy watches. Faced with the rise of quartz watches, Zenith responded with a radical proposal: an almost brutalist industrial design combined with exceptional water resistance. The A3642, nicknamed ‘the safe’, embodies this spirit. Two years later, the A3691 added a bold chromatic dimension with a vignette dial that was darkened around the edges.
This 37 mm diameter version, made of steel and based on the original designs, faithfully reproduces these codes while incorporating discreet but essential improvements: sapphire crystal, modern luminescent pigments and a transparent case back. An engineering feat allows the original water resistance of 300 metres to be maintained despite the opening onto the movement.
Beneath this sapphire crystal beats the Elite 670 automatic calibre, oscillating at 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and offering approximately 50 hours of power reserve. More than just a reissue, it is a powerful reminder that technical audacity never goes out of fashion. Defy lives up to its name.
€7,700
View the technical specifications for the Zenith Defy Revival A3691.
ON THE WRIST
PIAGET, Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
An icon of sporty chic, the Piaget Polo collection welcomes a model featuring a perpetual calendar. An exceptional complication that the Maison has mastered for many years, allowing the date, day, month, leap years and even the phases of the moon to be displayed automatically, without ever making a mistake, regardless of calendar variations.
At the heart of this rose gold timepiece beats the 1255P calibre, an ultra-thin movement just 4 mm thick, inspired by the legendary 1200P, visible through a sapphire crystal case back. Thinner and more complete, it now features a perpetual calendar enhanced with a moon phase mechanism (at 6 o’clock). The result is a 42 mm watch measuring only 8.65 mm in total, an engineering feat that brings the entire Piaget universe to the wrist. A subtle blend of technical audacity and extreme finesse characterises the line.
Its emerald green dial, enhanced by a gadrooned pattern, features three counters dedicated to the date, month – with leap year indication – and day. The subdials feature multiple finishes, creating a striking play of light, enhanced by hour markers and hands filled with Super-LumiNova®. The watch is available with a matching rubber or alligator leather strap.
€83,500
View the technical details of the Polo Perpetual Calendar Extra-Thin.
Boutique Dubail
21, place Vendôme, Paris 1er
Tél : 01 42 61 11 17
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