SPECIAL GENEVA

TAG Heuer, Piaget and Tudor: the revival spirit!

Whether playful, dressy, sporty-chic, or built for action, the watches presented at Watches and Wonders 2025 are sometimes inspired by pieces that have already had their moment of glory in the past. And even if they are redesigned with today's codes, there is always at least one detail to recall their origins. TAG Heuer, Piaget, and Tudor are three fine brands that are flying the flag for watchmaking this year.

By Vincent Daveau

PIAGET, Sixtie: new wave

The end of the 1960s was a period of rich creativity in all directions for the Swiss watch market, which was then preparing to experience the quartz wave.

Avant-garde and daring, the Piaget Sixtie watch stands out with its trapezoidal case

At Piaget, the period was fertile, and exceptional pieces of design emerged during this era. During this flamboyant era that marked the end of the Sixties, Piaget helped redefine the contours of preciousness and feminine watchmaking. Almost 60 years later, the Maison honors the creative demands of its heritage and pays tribute to this golden age by creating the Sixtie collection. A jewelry watch par excellence, this line reinvents the trapezoid, an essential shape in Piaget’s bold creative journey.

The contours of the geometric element are softened, evoking the Swinging Sautoirs from the 21st Century collection launched in 1969. The delicate design enhances the watch object to make it a jewel that women will treat as a talisman. The watch presented is aimed at free, instinctive and inspiring women. This jewelry watch is offered in gold on a gold bracelet formed of trapezoidal links. Refined, it features a turquoise dial to transform its look and transform everyday life into a festival of sweetness. A jewel intended above all to express its owner’s love for beautiful things, the Sixtie lives at the mercy of a highly precise Swiss-made quartz caliber.

Price on request

Technical details:

Sixtie watch, 29 mm.
Case thickness: 6.5 mm
Trapezoidal case in 18K rose gold.
Turquoise dial
18K rose gold bracelet.
Triple folding clasp
Piaget 57P quartz movement.
Water resistance: 50 meters

PIAGET, Andy Warhol: artist spirit

A few months after being officially renamed “Andy Warhol” as part of a partnership between Piaget and the Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, this iconic “seventies” watch made a strong comeback at the show.

The white meteorite dial of the Piaget Andy Warhol watch is enhanced by the rose gold of the case.

Among all the interpretations proposed, the 45 mm 18-carat rose gold version particularly attracted attention due to the presence of a dial made of silver meteorite on which long and thin rose gold indexes have been applied. The piece, generous with its voluptuous gadrooned bezel and its 45 mm side, is powered by a mechanical caliber with automatic winding of manufacture bearing the reference 501P1. Magnificent in presence, the beauty, which is water-resistant to 30 meters, is worn on the wrist on a dark red alligator leather strap. Note that it is possible to personalize your “Andy Warhol” directly on the Piaget website. Choice of material, ornamental stone, strap, hands, etc.

€61,500

Technical details:

Rose gold case
Silver meteorite dial with indexes
Dark red alligator leather strap
Self-winding mechanical movement
Water resistance: 30 meters

PIAGET, Polo 79: back to basics

The Piaget Polo 79 watch in rhodium-plated 750/1000 white gold alternates between signature gadroons and satin-finished gold elements

Some watches leave their mark on watchmaking culture in general thanks to their functionality or design. In the case of the Piaget Polo, it is undoubtedly its resolutely innovative design that has marked its era and ours, always in search of designs for time measuring instruments capable of generating emotion. This year, the Polo 79 is making its grand comeback to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the Maison. Elegant and sporty at the same time, the Polo 79 is a continuation of the vintage model. Here, the 38 mm diameter piece made of rhodium-plated 18-carat white gold features a “signature” design where the case is integrated with the bracelet to the point of seeing the latter extend onto the dial. This way of structuring the timepiece makes it visually powerful and above all captivating because it forms a single piece. And at the heart of this graphic structure alternating between flat and gadrooned patterns, a 1200P1 mechanical movement with automatic winding comes to life, visible through the transparent case back, revealing its micro-rotor made of 22-carat white-treated gold to fit perfectly into this entirely white ensemble.

The Polo 79 is powered by an automatic manufacture caliber equipped with a 22-carat gold micro-rotor coated in gray.

€91,500

Technical details:

Piaget Polo 79 watch, 38 mm.
Case, dial, and bracelet in rhodium-plated 750/1000 white gold.
Signature alternating gadroons and satin-finished gold elements. Bracelet fully integrated into the case.
Sapphire crystal case back.
Manufacture 1200P1 automatic movement with a gray-coated 22K gold micro-rotor.

PIAGET WEBSITE

TAG HEUER, Formula 1 collection, in pole position

The three pillars of the Formula 1 Solargraph collection

This year 2025, which is also the 75th anniversary of Formula 1, marks the grand return of TAG Heuer as timekeeper of this discipline. The brand, which has a rich history in the world of motor racing, is therefore reconnecting with this world that it has never really lost sight of, but which it had renounced in 2003. This news justified the return to the collection of Formula 1, a line of timepieces emblematic of a passion and an era. Since its creation in 1986, the Formula 1 collection has been composed of nine distinct models, each bringing a touch of freshness and energy.

This Formula 1 Solargraph features a blue opaline dial enhanced with a bidirectional rotating bezel in blue bio-polyamide

Three of the pieces form the core of the collection. The black and blue versions, available with a white dial, are worn on a steel bracelet. There is also a more daring red version. The other six models are limited editions and feature striking color combinations such as black and red, black and yellow, blue and black, white and green, white and red, and a green and red edition. All these watches are available on a “dynamic” rubber strap adorned with the TAG Heuer logo.

The screwed steel caseback ensures water resistance up to 100 meters.

They can also be worn on a racing bracelet or a steel link. This versatility allows them to match the style and expectations of each user. Practically unisex, the 38 mm case offers a perfect balance between sportiness and urban spirit. Comfortable and highly legible, they are easy to wear without being forgotten. Another strong point of this new line: its motorization. The Swiss brand demonstrates its mastery of avant-garde technologies by placing an innovative caliber called Solargraph in these 38 mm Formula 1 watches.

The other models are limited editions paying homage to the original 1986 collection

It is a quartz movement powered by energy provided by the sun or even artificial light. A two-minute exposure to direct sunlight is enough to power the watch for a whole day. Once fully charged, or after about forty hours of exposure to the sun, the watch can run for up to 10 months without seeing the light of day. And if the timepiece stops, simply expose it to a light source for ten seconds for it to restart, thanks to its ultra-efficient recharge time. Its battery, which is obviously replaceable, has an impressive lifespan of 15 years, ensuring long-term reliability.

Polished and black lacquered hour and minute hands with eggshell Super-LumiNova® technology during the day and green luminescence at night

It’s also worth noting that these instruments are both contemporary and environmentally friendly. The glasses are made from bio-sourced materials. They are nonetheless ultra-lightweight, durable, available in a wide range of colors, and, above all, robust.

The bidirectional bezel is machined from TH-Polylight, a new material renowned for its lightness, durability and endless color possibilities.

To conclude, the three standard Formula 1 models are already available, while the other six, which belong to the group of limited-edition watches, will be marketed throughout the year during strategic Grand Prix events.

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 makes its big comeback with nine new features

From €1,750

Movement
Caliber TH50-00
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Dial
White flange with 60-second/minute scale
Applied lacquered and polished rhodium-plated indexes with white Super-LumiNova® technology during the day and green luminescence at night
Polished rhodium-plated hour and minute hands with white Super-LumiNova® technology during the day and green luminescence at night
Printed green, red, and white TAG HEUER logo
Date at 3 o’clock
Printed FORMULA 1, SOLARGRAPH, and SWISS MADE inscriptions
Case
Diameter 38 mm
Bidirectional rotating 60-second/minute bezel in biopolyamide
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Steel crown at 3 o’clock
Screw-down steel caseback
Water resistance: 100 meters
Bracelet
3-row sandblasted steel bracelet / or Rubber
Steel folding clasp with double push-button safety and extension links; engraved TAG Heuer inscription
Dimensions
Lug to lug: 45.2 mm

TAG HEUER, Carrera Day-Date, revitalize an icon

The 41 mm Carrera Day-Date in steel features a sun-brushed blue dial punctuated by a highly legible double date window at 3 o’clock.

This model, which is part of a series of six distinct pieces within the Carrera Day-Date collection, is the perfect sporty-chic instrument for those who appreciate understated watches that are still identifiable and capable of indicating their owner’s passion for motor racing, the world from which they come.

Evolution of one of the icons of the TAG Heuer House: the Carrera Day-Date

This 41 mm diameter reference in brushed, satin-finished and polished steel retains the wearer’s quality that has helped build its reputation for excellence. Water-resistant to 100 meters, it is presented on a robust yet supple steel bracelet that closes securely with a double-limbed folding clasp. It features a sunray blue dial that is striking thanks to a semi-matte treatment that facilitates instinctive time reading.

On a sun-brushed blue dial, the hour and minute hands are polished, faceted, rhodium-plated and coated with white Super-LumiNova®.

The presence of the flange in the color of the dial allows for precise reading of the seconds and draws the eye towards the faceted and rhodium-plated hands and indexes. Readable in the dark, this beautiful reference is powered by the self-winding caliber TH31 co-developed with AMT and produced exclusively for TAG Heuer. Visible through the transparent caseback, it allows the hour, minutes, seconds to be displayed with a central second hand and the day and date in an aperture at 3 o’clock with precision.

Co-developed with AMT, the automatic caliber offers a comfortable power reserve of approximately 80 hours. It also features a coat-of-arms oscillating weight.

€4 150

Technical Details:

Caliber TH31-02
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date
Dial
Blue sunray-brushed dial
Blue flange with 60-second/minute scale
Applied, polished, and faceted rhodium-plated indexes
Polished and faceted rhodium-plated hour and minute hands with white Super-LumiNova® technology
Polished and faceted rhodium-plated central hand
Applied and polished rhodium-plated TAG Heuer logo
Day and date window at 3 o’clock
Printed “CARRERA”, “AUTOMATIC”, and “SWISS” inscriptions
Case
Diameter 41 mm
Polished and brushed steel case
Fixed polished steel bezel
Curved sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating
Polished steel crown at 3 o’clock
Screw-down steel and sapphire crystal caseback
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Bracelet
3-row brushed and polished steel bracelet with easy-to-remove links
Double folding clasp in polished and brushed steel with double push-button safety release; TAG Heuer crest
Dimensions
Lug to lug: 47.5 mm
Thickness: 12.57 mm

TUDOR, winning martingale

Tudor, the daughter company of Rolex, scored points again during this show by offering time measuring instruments that are original, finished with care worthy of the best and offered at prices that are extraordinarily well placed compared to the competition.

Black Bay 58, intoxicating in essence

The three available references of the new Black Bay 58

Present on the presentation trays, the Black Bay 58 caught the eye with its deep burgundy dial and bezel worthy of the finest vintages. Its steel case with polished and satin finishes measures just 39 mm in diameter. This very contemporary size will appeal to men as well as women, who were particularly taken by the alluring beauty, with her slightly flashy outfit.

The new Black Bay 58 with burgundy dial takes up the aesthetics of a prototype from the 1990s

To ensure that this Black Bay 58 has a coordinated outfit, the unidirectional rotating steel bezel features an anodized aluminum ring in the exact color of the dial, domed with applied indexes to maintain its little “vintage” air. The whole, water-resistant to 200 meters, has “Snowflake” hands introduced in 1969. They are loaded with luminescent material (hour, minute and central second hands with luminous dot) and are powered by a self-winding mechanical caliber MT5400-U, equipped with 65 hours of power reserve at 4 Hertz (28,800 alt. / h.) and a precision regulating organ with silicon balance spring.

The three references are doubly certified COSC and METAS

These elements allow the watch to be certified as a chronometer by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute) and by the METAS (Swiss Metrology Institute). This beauty, which will make all enthusiasts blush with envy, can be worn with a choice of a steel bracelet with five links or three rivet-style links with polished and satin finishes, or a rubber strap. All links are equipped with the Tudor “T-fit” clasp.

3-link steel bracelet – €4,510
5-link steel bracelet – €4,620
Rubber strap – €4,290

Technical details:

39 mm steel case, polished and satin-brushed finishes
Unidirectional rotating steel bezel with an anodized burgundy aluminum disc
Screw-down steel winding crown adorned with the raised TUDOR rose
Burgundy domed dial with applied hour markers
Domed sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 200 m
Five-link or three-link rivet-style steel bracelet with polished and satin-brushed finishes, or rubber strap, all equipped with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp
Manufacture caliber MT5400-U (certified by COSC and METAS)
Mechanical movement with bidirectional self-winding via rotor
Certified to 65 hours
Swiss chronometer officially certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)
Master Chronometer certification by METAS
Hour, minute and seconds
Stop seconds for precise time setting
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)

Black Bay 68, see the time in a big way

Fashions are what they are, and while we hear that a return to smaller case sizes is on the horizon, some models are betting that the fashion for large diameters is still relevant.

The 43mm Black Bay 68 comes in two versions: a blue or silver dial.

The proof: Tudor presents the Black Bay 68, a sports watch with a polished and satin-finished steel case measuring 43 mm in diameter and whose dials and unidirectional rotating bezels feature unique color combinations. We will highlight the more original of the two: the Black Bay 68 with a domed Tudor blue sunray dial with applied indexes. The whole watch, water-resistant to 200 meters, features luminescent “Snowflake” hands and is powered by a self-winding mechanical caliber MT5601-U.

Crafted from steel, the Black Bay 68 beats to the rhythm of a manufactured automatic movement (COSC + METAS certification)

It has a 70-hour power reserve at 4 Hertz (28,800 alt./h.) and a precision regulating organ with a silicon balance spring. These elements allow the watch, equipped with a stop-seconds for precise time setting, to be chronometer-certified by the COSC and METAS. This efficient timepiece is delivered on a three-link steel bracelet with polished and satin finishes, fitted with a Tudor “T-fit” folding clasp.

Black Bay 68 – silver dial and Black Bay 68 – blue dial – €4,730

Technical details:

43 mm steel case with polished and satin-brushed finishes
Unidirectional 60-minute graduated steel bezel with matte black anodized aluminum disc
Screw-down steel winding crown adorned with the raised TUDOR rose
Silvered or “TUDOR blue” dial, sunburst, domed, applied hour markers
Domed sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 200 m
Three-link steel bracelet with polished and satin-brushed finishes, polished edges, fitted with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp
MOVEMENT
Manufacture MT5601-U
Mechanical movement with bidirectional self-winding via rotor
Certified to 70 hours by METAS
Swiss chronometer officially certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)
Master Chronometer certification by METAS
Center hour, minute, and second hands
Stop-seconds for precise time setting
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)

Black Bay Pro

The new opaline dial of the Black Bay Pro, 39 mm in diameter, in steel

While retaining the 39 mm diameter case, the fixed steel bezel, and the automatic caliber with GMT function, the Black Bay Pro, launched in 2022, now features a new opaline dial. It is distinguished by the optimal readability of the information. Indeed, the ceramic indexes and luminescent hands have a black outline that accentuates their contrast.

The “Snowflake” hands and applied indexes are filled with green luminescent material in the dark.

Designed for globetrotters, this model displays a second time zone, indicated by a yellow “Snowflake” hand that circles every 24 hours. Local time is represented by the smaller hand that moves forward or backward in jump hours.

Choice of: Jacquard, steel or leather bracelets

Available with a steel bracelet, a hybrid bracelet with a yellow central line, or a rubber and leather bracelet, this edition is powered by an automatic manufacture caliber, doubly certified by COSC and METAS. Equipped with a non-magnetic silicon balance spring, it also delivers a 70-hour power reserve.

Steel bracelet – €4,410
Black fabric strap with yellow stripe – €4,080
Rubber and leather hybrid strap – €4,080

Technical details:

39 mm steel case, polished and satin-finished
Fixed satin-finished steel bezel, 24-hour graduated
Screw-down steel crown adorned with the raised TUDOR rose
Domed opaline dial
Domed sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 200 m
Riveted steel bracelet, polished and satin-finished, or hybrid rubber and leather strap, with steel folding clasp and safety catch, or black fabric strap with yellow band and pin buckle
Manufacture caliber MT5652 (COSC)
Mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor winding
Swiss chronometer officially certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)
Jumping hours (second time zone), 24 hours, minutes, and central seconds
Instantaneous date at 3 o’clock with no non-correction period synchronized to the jumping hour hand
Stop seconds for precise time setting
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)

Pelagos Ultra, all-round efficiency

All the visitors agreed: the Pelagos Ultra is the watch of the show. Specifically designed to meet the challenges of saturation diving, it has captured the imagination of all professionals looking for an instrument that is efficient, well-designed, and accessible to the widest possible audience.

The new Pelagos Ultra in grade 2 titanium with a diameter of 43 mm

The beauty is 43 mm in diameter and is water-resistant to 1000 meters to meet the need of professional divers to be able to read time instinctively. The caseband and the unidirectional rotating bezel with ceramic insert and luminescent material are made of grade 2 titanium while the caseback is crafted from grade 5 titanium. The watch head with a titanium screw-down safety crown also has a helium escape valve integrated into the caseband for saturation diving.

The dial with a matte black flange, above which the “Snowflake” hands gravitate, features two shades of luminous displays (blue and green) to improve readability at great depths. The caliber used for this timepiece is the MT5612-U manufacture self-winding mechanical movement, equipped with a silicon balance spring and a 65-hour power reserve.

Optimal readability with the indexes, hour hand, second hand and graduation on the bezel covered with blue luminescent material; and green on the minute hand

These elements allow the watch to be certified as a chronometer by the COSC and METAS. The efficient watch is worn on a three-link titanium bracelet with a Tudor “T-fit” folding clasp, locking flap and diving extension with a new visual indicator system. The timepiece comes in the box with an additional rubber link with a pin buckle and diving extension.

A diving watch by Tudor, the Pelagos Ultra is water resistant to 1,000 meters.

Tudor Pelagos Ultra€4 900

Technical details:

Grade 2 titanium case, 43 mm, satin-brushed finish, helium escape valve, grade 5 titanium case back
Unidirectional rotating bezel in grade 2 titanium with matte ceramic insert and luminous material
Screw-down grade 2 titanium winding crown, decorated with the raised TUDOR shield
Matte black dial with sandblasted flange
Domed sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 1000 m
Three-link titanium bracelet with TUDOR “T-fit” folding clasp, locking flap, and diving extension with a new visual indicator system. Additional black rubber strap with pin buckle and diving extension, included in the box
Manufacture caliber MT5612-U
Mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor winding
Certified for 65 hours
Swiss chronometer officially certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute),
Master Chronometer certification by METAS
Centered hour, minute, and second hands, date
Stop seconds for precise time setting
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustable by screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring

TUDOR WEBSITE

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