Zenith: 160 years among the stars

Aiming for the stars

Zenith celebrates more than a 160^th anniversary. They stick to their guns, proudly supporting a vision of the watchmaking industry true to its roots. The house was founded in 1865 by Georges Favre-Jacot in Le Locle, a mountainous town in the Canton of Neuchâtel.

By that time, the watchmaking industry was based on a traditional model – craftsmen worked on their parts remotely. Favre-Jacot revolutionized the sector by bringing all the crafts together under the same roof. Inspired by the big American factories, his workshop turned into one of the first integrated manufactures in the world. Thanks to his pioneering industrial approach, the little workshop located on Rue des Billodes became a real watchmaking empire.

At the threshold of the 20^th century, the manufacture spread out on 9,300 m², with 18 buildings and more than 600 craftsmen, for a production of 100,000 watches per year. With avant-garde facilities (quarry, foundry, brick-kiln, printing plant and even electricity since 1886), it became a symbol of modernity. Its international dimension was facilitated by James Favre, Georges’ nephew, who carried the Swiss savoir-faire on every continent. This way, Zenith got established beyond the Swiss borders.

The pinnacle of the chronometric arts

Starting from 1897, Zenith participated to chronometry contests organized by observatories – rigorous tests through which craftsmen could be crowned master watch-makers. The house remains the most awarded manufacture in the watchmaking history, with 2,333 prizes won. Two Zenith regulators were even selected by the Neuchâtel Observatory to define the official time – a rare acknowledgement for an industrial house. The golden age of chronometry fits in the middle of the 20^th century. At that period, the brand radiated with the calibre 135-O, made especially for such contests.

Between 1950 and 1954 this calibre won 5 consecutive prizes in Neuchâtel – a record that remains unmatched. But in the 1960’s, Zenith rose up to a new challenge: creating the first integrated self-winding chronograph. In 1969, the legendary calibre El Primero was released, oscillating at a pace of 36,000 vibrations per hour, able to measure to a 10^th of a second. Unfortunately, the Swiss watchmaking industry faced a quartz crisis during the 1970’s, forcing the manufacture to stop producing this revolutionary calibre.

Charles Vermot, the craftsman who worked on the El Primero movement, was indisputably a true revolutionary. Defying his superiors, he decided to secretly hide, in the manufacture’s attic, all the plans and the tools required to craft the components of the calibre.

With this “historical” act, he planned, and hoped, for the calibre to rise up from oblivion and come back in the spotlights. His prayers came true when, a decade later, Zenith revived the production.

From then on, this movement became a reference, especially for Rolex that used it for their Daytona edition, starting from 1988. In 2019, the movement El Primero 3600 was relaunched, measuring time to a 10^th of a second.

Iconic collections

Since the beginning, creating watches in which aesthetics and technique are indivisible has always been a point of honour for Zenith. More than ever, the models’ silhouettes stand out by their mechanical precision and their artistic innovation. The house’s creative madness was particularly expressed during the 1960s, when the iconic Defy collection was released, with the distinctive 14-sided bezel and defined angles.

Let’s not forget the G383 edition, called “Poker Chip”, with its atypical dial or, more recently, the stunning collaborations with the artist Felipe Pantone.

A royal blue quartet

To celebrate this 160th anniversary, exceptional watches are being resurrected with a blue monochrome look, the manufacture’s historical colour. Let’s get a closer look.

Pilot Big Date Flyback 160^th Anniversary Edition: An ‘eth-aerial’ style

Decades before the rise of aviation and motor races, Georges Favre-Jacot registered the trademark “Pilote” (in French) in 1888, then the English translation “Pilot” in 1904 – an initiative that only confirms the visionary spirit of the man himself. From then on, Zenith is the only house allowed to write the word “Pilot” on their dials. By that time, Zenith’s commitment in the universe of Pilot’s watches and aircraft instruments had been amply demonstrated.

During Summer 1909, Louis Blériot, famous aviation pioneer, became the first man to make the first flight across the English Channel with his Blériot XI. He reaches England in a matter of 37 minutes, wearing his Zenith watch.

All these stories only help strengthening the DNA of Zenith’s emblematic collection, now edited as the Pilot Big Date Flyback 160^th Anniversary Edition. With a full monochrome look, this edition presents a 42.5mm case made of blue micro-blasted ceramic, with rectangular push-pieces and a titanium crown. The latter, oversized, is notched to offer a better grip for the pilot’s gloved wearer. The matching corrugated dial displays characteristic horizontal stripes, alongside with 2 dials of the same tint, at 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock, respectively showing the small seconds hand and the counter 30 min.

For an optimal legibility, the dial features large Arabic numerals and hands, both coated in a luminescent substance. The date aperture, located at 6 o’clock, is equipped with a patented compliant mechanism that allows an instantaneous changing in only 0.007 second.

This chronograph, water resistant to 100 meters, integrates the flyback function: with only one push, the chronometer can be reinitialised and rerun, without stopping nor resetting it. This complication conveniently helps making and simplifying calculations in flight. The legendary self-winding calibre El Primero that powers the watch also offers a power reserve of about 60 hours. The movement, revealed by the sapphire case back, displays a pierced oscillating weight adorned by the special 160^th anniversary logo. This limited edition, with only 160 copies available, is delivered with both a blue and a white cordura effect rubber strap that can easily be swapped thanks to a smart strap changing system.

Limited edition of 160 copies – €16,500

See the technical details of the Pilot Big Date Flyback 160^th Anniversary Edition

Defy Skyline Chronograph 160^th Anniversary Edition: Defying time

The blue ceramic outfit of this Defy Skyline Chronograph, re-designed from the Defy 1969 model, takes on a new dimension thanks to the architectural shape of its case, and its iconic 12-sided bezel.

This 42mm variation, with harmonious shapes, features a blue dial also engraved with a geometric motif inspired by the brand’s 4-pointed star. This dial holds a discreet date aperture, between 4 and 5 o’clock, alongside snailed counters: small seconds at 9 o’clock, 60-minute at 6 o’clock and 60-second at 3 o’clock.

The sport-like chronograph, also available with a blue star-patterned rubber strap, is powered by the high frequency calibre El Primero 3600 (5Hz). Perfectly aligned with the graduations of the dial’s rehaut, the seconds hand can indicate the 10^th of a second, while performing a complete rotation of the dial in 10 seconds – 6 times faster than a usual chronometer.

€24,800

See the details of the Defy Skyline Chronograph 160^th Anniversary Edition

Chronomaster Sport 160th Anniversary Edition: Mesmerizing technicity

This 41mm model displays a distinctive blue ceramic case that alternates satin-finished and polished finishing, with faceted lugs and pump-style pushers that offer a mesmerizing play of light.

The deep blue lacquered dial features the 3 emblematic tricolored counters located at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. The faceted indices and the hands (hour, minute and second) are covered in a luminescent substance for optimal legibility. On the other hand, the chronograph hands display a red-colored tip, adding a dynamic touch to the whole piece.

The high-frequency calibre El Primero 3600 that powers the watch beats with 36,000 vibrations per hour and can measure a 10^th of a second thanks to the central hand that can perform a complete rotation of the dial in only 10 seconds.

The sapphire case back reveals every cog of the mechanism, especially the column wheel, the horizontal clutch and the pierced oscillating weight engraved with the “160^th Anniversary” logo. This edition is delivered with 2 straps: a blue ceramic strap with a matching deployment buckle, and a blue rubber strap equipped with a stainless-steel buckle.

€23,700

See the details of the Chronomaster 160^th Anniversary Edition

G.F.J. Calibre 135: ‘Serial winner’

G.F.J. stands for Georges Favre-Jacot initials. This edition, with its intemporal design, revives the legendary calibre 135, the movement the most awarded by conservatories’ chronometry contests – a major concern at the time.

Ordered by Zenith’s technical director, Charles Ziegler, this movement designed by Ephrem Jobin was made to snatch every prize at the prestigious chronometry contests organised by prominent European observatories (Neuchâtel, Geneva, Kew Teddington and Besançon). The name is a reference to the calibre’s dimensions: 13 lignes wide (meaning 30mm, the maximum size authorised in the wristwatch category for the Neuchâtel contest) and 5mm thick. With 235 distinctions, the calibre 135-O is still considered as an absolute reference. In 2022, the house revived the legend through an exceptional collaboration with Kari Voutilainen and Phillips, in association with Bacs & Russo.

The 39.15mm anniversary edition, made of platinum, is inspired by the aesthetics of the original model with the exception that its inner working was completely reworked. From now on, the self-winding calibre is certified chronometer by the COSC (the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute) and guarantees an accuracy of +/-2 seconds a day. With a power reserve of about 72 hours, it is also equipped with a balance wheel, adjustment screws and a Breguet balance spring. To allow the wearer to set the watch down to the second, a stop-second mechanism was added and the balance axis is now equipped with spring shock absorbers for an optimal shock-resistance.

The sapphire case back reveals delicate bridges adorned with a brick guilloche motif that evokes the manufacture’s frontage. This pattern can also be found on the edge of the dial, ringed by a rail-track minute circle made of 40 incredibly fine white gold pearls. But the centre of the dial, with its deep blue bottom made of lapis lazuli dotted with golden pyrite, is also worth observing. The seconds counter, located at 6 o’clock, is made of mother-of-pearl. This new edition is delivered with 3 interchangeable straps: a dark blue alligator leather strap, a black calfskin leather strap and a blue “Saffiano” calfskin leather strap, slightly textured. Please note that an exclusive alternative 7-stranded platinum bracelet is available, only on request.

€52,900

See the details of the G.F.J Calibre 135 watch

The exclusive box set

The exclusive box set with the 3 watches: €65,000 / plus the G.F.J. model: €117,900

Icing on the plate – A gorgeous exclusivity coming from far far away

Presented in exclusivity in our video, straight from another universe, this stainless-steel Chronomaster Sport Meteorite features alluring details: a unique meteorite dial and a black ceramic bezel, displaying a 10^th of a second indicator.

It is powered by the self-winding movement El Primero 3600, a high-frequency chronograph – 36,000 vibrations per hour, being 5Hz – with a column wheel. It can measure the 10th of a second thanks to the central hand that can perform a full rotation in 10 seconds. The 60-second and 60-minute counters are respectively located at 3 and 6 o’clock, with a small seconds hand at 9 o’clock, and a subtle date aperture at 4:30 o’clock.

This instrument, water-resistant to 100 meters, is a time-keeper as well as an eternity-keeper, thanks to the meteorite fragment nested at its heart. With a power reserve of 60 hours, its hands and indices are also rhodium-plated, faceted and coated in Super-LumiNova, for perfect legibility. Last but not least, a stainless-steel bracelet with a deployment buckle, that completes the look of this everlasting timepiece.

€18,300

Zenith website

Registration form to visit the Zenith manufacture: https://www.myswitzerland.com/en/planning/offers/watch-manufacture-zenith-public-tour-in-le-locle/

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