Episode 2: Cartier, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin
This second instalment of Watches and Wonders 2026 showcases watchmaking in which form takes centre stage. Elongated, cushion-shaped, oval or asymmetrical cases: these geometric forms are not merely aesthetic choices, but demand a genuine consideration of how the movement is integrated. By playing with the constraints of volume, these watches redefine the way we read the time and champion an approach where design and mechanics advance hand in hand. Featured among the leading manufacturers are Cartier, Piaget and Vacheron Constantin.
CARTIER
Crash Watch Skeleton
In the Cartier Privé collection, the Cartier Crash Squelette continues to explore the Maison’s historic designs. Created in 1967 in London, the Crash is distinguished by an asymmetrical case that creates a deconstructed view of the dial.
This exclusive platinum version features a 1967 MC hand-wound Manufacture movement, designed to complement this specific geometry. The calibre, comprising 142 components, features a skeletonised architecture in which the bridges, shaped like Roman numerals, contribute to the display. These are hand-hammered using a technique requiring approximately two hours of work. This patented construction combines structural function with legibility.
The watch is housed in a case measuring 45.34 mm by 25.18 mm, with a thickness of 12.97 mm. The watch is fitted with a semi-matt burgundy alligator strap. Produced in a limited edition of 150 numbered pieces, this version emphasises the integration of the movement within a confined space and the continuity between mechanical components and visual elements. Stunning!
€117,000
View the technical specifications for the Crash Watch Skeleton.
Technical details:
Case
Skeletonised bridges in the shape of Roman numerals
Semi-matt burgundy alligator strap
1967 MC hand-wound mechanical Manufacture movement
Dimensions: 45.34 mm x 25.18 mm, thickness: 12.97 mm
38-hour power reserve
Limited edition of 150 numbered pieces
Tank Cintrée Watch
For the 10th instalment of Cartier Privé, the Cartier Privé – La Collection line brings together several historic models in hour-minute versions. Among them, the Cartier Tank Cintrée stands out with its elongated yellow gold case, measuring 23 mm x 46.3 mm, with a thickness of 6.95 mm. The opaline dial with a gold finish features Roman numerals, paired with blued steel apple-shaped hands. The watch is powered by a 1917 MC hand-wound Manufacture movement. The case back is engraved with a motif featuring the model’s stylised silhouette. The watch is completed by a dark grey semi-matt alligator strap and is water-resistant to 30 metres. This version retains the hours-minutes display and a consistency of materials and finishes, faithful to the characteristics of this reinterpretation.
€37,000
View the technical specifications for the Tank Cintrée Watch.
Technical details:
Yellow gold
Opaline dial with a gold finish and grey Roman numeral hour markers
Dark grey satin-finish alligator strap
1917 MC hand-wound mechanical Manufacture movement
Dimensions: 23 mm x 46.3 mm, thickness: 6.95 mm
Power reserve: approx. 38 hours
Water-resistant to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres).
Myst de Cartier
The Cartier Myst features an unconventional design centred on the concept of an integrated bracelet without a clasp. It is based on an articulated structure comprising successive elements, strung together like beads on an elastic framework, allowing it to fit snugly around the wrist. This design required specialised development to ensure both the flexibility and durability of the bracelet.
The case, with its delicate dimensions – 19.7 x 15.4 mm and 9.9 mm thick – is topped by a domed crystal. It houses a dial set with 45 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.37 ct) in a snow-set pattern and featuring a triangular hour marker at 12 o’clock. The design is based on an interplay of curves and lines, enhanced by a bracelet combining sections set with various patterns. The four-grain setting, used throughout, allows gemstones of varying sizes to be incorporated, creating a sparkling timepiece. In this white gold version, the perception of volume relies solely on the play of light created by the set surfaces. Comprising 986 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 9.17 carats, this twisted-style edition is powered by a quartz movement. Note that the bracelet is available in several sizes
View the product details for the Cartier Myst watch in white gold and diamonds – €186,000
Technical details:
White gold model
Case and bracelet set with 986 brilliant-cut diamonds (9.17 ct)
Dial set with 45 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.37 ct) in a snow-set pattern
Quartz movement
Dimensions: 19.7 x 15.4 mm, thickness: 9.9 mm
Water-resistant to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres).
Available in size 15/16
View the product details for the Cartier Myst watch in yellow gold and diamonds – €156,000
Yellow gold model
Case and bracelet set with 634 brilliant-cut diamonds (6.13 ct) and lacquer
Dial set with 47 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.35 ct) in a snow-set pattern and surrounded by an onyx frame
Quartz movement
Dimensions: 19.7 x 15.4 mm, thickness: 9.9 mm
Water-resistant to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres).
Available in size 15/16
Santos-Dumont Watch
The Santos-Dumont is presented here in a yellow gold version featuring an integrated metal bracelet, designed in the tradition of the first bracelets developed by the Maison in the 1920s.
Its construction is based on an assembly of 394 links, arranged in 15 rows, each of which has been machined and polished. With a thickness of 1.15 mm, these links ensure exceptional flexibility and allow the bracelet to fit the wrist perfectly. Each strand is secured to the case and the clasp, ensuring the structural integrity of the whole. The case retains the proportions and characteristic features of the Santos collection: visible screws, a beaded crown set with a blue cabochon, and a dial with Roman numerals (featuring a secret signature). The sunburst-satin-finished silver dial enhances legibility through a controlled play of light. Water-resistant to 30 metres, the watch is powered by the 430 MC hand-wound Manufacture mechanical movement. This hand-wound calibre embodies a philosophy of refinement that complements the case’s slender profile.
€48,500
View the technical specifications for the Santos-Dumont watch in yellow gold.
Technical details:
Yellow gold
Sunburst-satin-finished silver dial
Interchangeable yellow gold strap
430 MC hand-wound mechanical movement
Dimensions: 43.5 x 31.4 mm
Power reserve: approx. 38 hours
Thickness: 7.3 mm
Water-resistant to 30 metres
Roadster
In the spotlight, the Roadster returns to centre stage, retaining a design centred around an ogival-shaped case, the proportions of which have been revised to improve ergonomics without altering the original architecture. The work focuses on the integration of the crown, which now flows seamlessly into the bezel and the case. The whole forms a continuous volume, enhanced by the interplay between the crystal, the date magnifier and the dial. The bezel is structured by four rivets, whilst the date magnifier retains a distinctive shape, seamlessly integrated into the overall design. The dial retains the existing design elements: a circular fluted pattern, a railway-track minute track and Roman numerals. The changes relate to the manufacturing processes, with a relief effect achieved through stamping, complemented by lacquered hour markers and a printed railway-track minute track. On these two automatic versions in steel and yellow gold, the luminescent sword-shaped hands are available in blue or anthracite finishes respectively.
A large-sized model in yellow gold, also with a white dial, supplied with a grey alligator strap.
The metal bracelet has also been redesigned. The shorter links improve flexibility and ensure a better fit on the wrist. The alternating polished and brushed finishes give the bracelet a structured look. The QuickSwitch™ system allows the bracelet to be changed without tools, with the option of a second alligator leather bracelet featuring a folding clasp that matches the case material.
Technical details:
Medium-sized steel model – €9,150
White dial, Super-LumiNova®
Strap fitted with the QuickSwitch® system
Second strap in semi-matt navy blue alligator leather with an interchangeable steel folding clasp
1899 MC self-winding Manufacture mechanical movement
Dimensions: 42.5 x 34.9 mm,
Thickness: 9.7 mm
Water resistance: approximately 100 metres
Large model in yellow gold – €56,000
White dial, Super-LumiNova®
Strap fitted with the QuickSwitch® system
Second strap in semi-matt grey alligator leather with an interchangeable yellow gold folding clasp
1847 MC self-winding Manufacture mechanical movement
Dimensions: 47 x 38 mm
Thickness: 10.06 mm
Water resistance: approximately 100 metres
Baignoire de Cartier Watch Clous de Paris motif
A watch that certainly has a certain “je ne sais quoi”, and above all one of my favourites from this fair. In a bracelet version, the Baignoire is entirely crafted around the Clous de Paris motif. This motif is applied across the entire surface, from the bracelet to the dial, requiring a consistent finish to maintain the regularity of the volumes. Its creation involves a specific method of shaping the gold, allowing the sharpness of the reliefs to be preserved whilst ensuring the structural integrity of the piece. The push-buttons on the clasp, also in yellow gold, are integrated seamlessly into the bracelet, without any visual break.
The case retains the signature features of the Baignoire: an oval shape, a crown set with a sapphire, and a minimalist dial. The dial is engraved with the Clous de Paris pattern, which alters the perception of the surfaces by creating a uniform texture across the entire watch.
Another ‘small’ feat from Cartier: the polishing stage, carried out entirely by hand. It must preserve the geometric design without altering its edges, to ensure it remains clear and legible. We’re obviously smitten.
€22,800
View the product specifications for the Baignoire Clous de Paris watch in yellow gold.
Technical details:
Yellow gold
Gold dial
Available in sizes 15, 16 and 17
Quartz movement
Dimensions: 24.6 x 19.3 mm, thickness: 7.5 mm
Water-resistant to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres).
PIAGET
Polo 79
The Piaget Polo 79 continues the evolution of a model launched in 1979, recognisable by its integrated design and the use of godron, a pattern featuring alternating polished and satin-finished surfaces. This feature structures the entire case and bracelet, creating a continuous play of texture that has characterised the collection since its inception. Following a version in solid yellow and white gold, a two-tone model was introduced at the start of this year, marking the latest iteration.
Today, this new Polo 79 retains a case diameter of 38 mm and a thickness of 7.45 mm. The 18-carat white gold case combines a satin-finished surface with polished fluting, a motif repeated on the integrated bracelet crafted from the same material. What sets it apart above all is its sodalite dial. This ornamental stone provides a striking visual contrast with the white gold and highlights the structure of the dial, which is also finished with polished fluting. This choice is part of a historical tradition, as the brand has previously explored onyx and lapis lazuli in earlier models.
The timepiece retains the collection’s core design elements: a monobloc construction, contrasting finishes and the integration of an ultra-thin movement, whilst introducing a new material for the dial. It is powered by the ultra-thin in-house automatic calibre 1200P, ensuring a slim profile and seamless integration into the watch’s overall design. It is water-resistant to approximately 50 metres.
€104,000
Diameter: 38 mm
Case thickness: 7.45 mm
Case: 18-carat white gold, satin-finished with polished fluting
Dial: 18-carat white gold, polished fluting and sodalite
Strap: 18-carat white gold, satin-finished with polished fluting
Calibre: 1200P in-house automatic movement
Water resistance: 50 metres
View the Polo 79 technical specifications.
Polo Date
Water-resistant to 50 metres, this model retains the design features of the Polo collection in a compact format, with a 36 mm diameter cushion-shaped rose gold case that is 8.8 mm thick.
Surrounded by a bezel set with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds, the blue quartz dial introduces a mineral texture that contrasts with the rose gold elements. The applied hour markers, also in rose gold, are set with 36 brilliant-cut diamonds (three diamonds per marker) whilst maintaining a display focused on the hours and minutes, indicated by openwork hands.
On the back, the sapphire crystal case back reveals the in-house calibre 500P1. This automatic movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and offers a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. Featuring an engraved oscillating weight, it boasts classic yet striking finishes: circular Côtes de Genève, a pearl-finished mainplate, bevelled bridges and blued screws. It is worth noting that the integrated rose gold bracelet can be replaced with a burgundy alligator strap, supplied with a rose gold pin buckle.
€71,000
View the technical specifications for the Polo Date.
Swinging Pebbles
With the Swinging Sautoirs, Piaget continues an approach first introduced in the late 1960s, in which the watch breaks free from the wrist to become an object worn as a pendant. As early as 1969, the 21st Century Collection introduced this concept by combining goldsmithing, gemstones and watchmaking in unconventional formats. In the 1970s, under the impetus of Valentin Piaget and in collaboration with designers such as Jean-Claude Gueit, these creations took the form of unique pieces, focusing on materials and movement. The principle is based on a stone dial suspended from a gold chain, with its mobility forming an integral part of the object.
This new Swinging Pebbles collection takes this construction and adapts it. Each pendant watch is carved from a single block of ornamental stone — in this case pietersite — hollowed out to house a manufacture movement, then sealed to form a polished, pebble-shaped case. This monobloc construction highlights the continuity of the material and the precision of the machining. The white gold case is set with diamonds and houses the 355P quartz calibre, displaying the hours and minutes. The whole is suspended from an 80 cm twisted white gold chain, designed to be as much a structural element as an aesthetic one. Water-resistant to 30 metres, this version retains the historic principles of the Swinging Sautoir: integration of the movement within an ornamental stone, a closed case construction, and interaction with the body’s movement via the chain. We love it!
€90,000
Technical details:
White gold
Length of the long necklace: 80 cm
Movement: quartz
Water resistance: approximately 30 metres
Material: white gold
Dial and pendant: pietersite
Andy Warhol
At Piaget, colour is a language in its own right. Since 1963, the Maison has been exploring the expressive potential of gemstones — lapis lazuli, malachite, tiger’s eye — transforming the dial into a living canvas. A choice that went against the grain of its time, it has now become a hallmark of the brand’s identity. The decisive impetus came from the ultra-thin 9P calibre: by reducing the thickness, Piaget set the design free. The dial took centre stage. In the 1960s and 1970s, the jewellery watch established itself as a style icon, driven by the energy of the Piaget Society.
This year, this heritage is powerfully embodied in two versions of the Piaget Andy Warhol. The same design features: a 45 x 43 mm cushion-shaped case in rose gold, with a “Clou de Paris” finish, a slim profile (8.08 mm thick) and the Manufacture’s automatic calibre 501P1 (approximately 40-hour power reserve). A shared foundation, designed as a showcase. On one side, lapis lazuli: a deep blue, naturally veined, almost celestial, which captures the light with depth. Paired with a brown alligator strap, it creates a subtle, elegant, almost contemplative presence. On the other, the bull’s eye: a stone with vibrant reddish-brown hues, almost organic in appearance. Paired with a blue alligator strap, it creates a more striking contrast.
Inside, the 501P1 embodies watchmaking precision — with meticulous finishes and masterful craftsmanship — without ever overshadowing the dial. For here, it is all about the materials and the colours.
Verdict: two watches, two distinct styles, a single brand identity — that of a Maison which continues to use colour as a medium for self-expression.
Model in rose gold with a Bull’s Eye dial – €61,500
Modèle en or rose et cadran en lapis-lazuli – €67,500
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
Overseas Self Winding Ultra-Thin
After seven years of development, the watch manufacturer is introducing the Calibre 2550, an ultra-thin automatic movement measuring 2.4 mm in thickness and 30.6 mm in diameter, offering an 80-hour power reserve. This design is based on three key components: a bidirectional micro-rotor, a suspended double barrel, and a compact gear train arranged on a single level.
strap and a clasp in 950 platinum – a first for the collection.
The micro-rotor, integrated into the mainplate to minimise thickness, is crafted from 950 platinum. With a diameter of 15.5 mm, its density optimises the efficiency of the automatic winding mechanism without the need for a bulkier central oscillating weight. The suspended double barrel system features a unique stacked configuration. The two barrels, mounted in series and in an inverted position, pivot on a single axis fixed to the bridge. This arrangement eliminates the need for a cover and the ratchet, whilst maintaining a stable torque.
Energy is transmitted from the upper barrel to the lower barrel, ensuring consistent timekeeping throughout the 80-hour power reserve. The gear train, redesigned to fit within this confined space, consists of five wheels arranged on a single plane, two of which are mounted on ball bearings. This construction aims to improve energy efficiency whilst enhancing the robustness of the assembly. The balance wheel oscillates at 3 Hz, or 21,600 vibrations per hour.
Visible through a sapphire crystal case back, this remarkable movement powers the new ultra-thin automatic Overseas, housed in a 950 platinum case measuring 39.5 mm in diameter and 7.35 mm in thickness. The alloy used, enriched with copper and gallium, undergoes a heat treatment that increases its mechanical strength, claimed to be 2.7 times greater than that of standard 950 platinum. Water-resistant to 50 metres, the watch features a salmon-coloured lacquered dial with a sunburst satin finish, accented by a fluted minute track. The hands and hour markers are coated in blue Super-LumiNova®.
The model retains the hallmarks of the Overseas collection, featuring an integrated platinum bracelet and a tool-free interchangeable strap system, complemented by additional rubber and alligator straps. The timepiece is certified with the Geneva Seal and is available in a limited edition of just 255 numbered pieces.
€118,000
View the technical specifications of the Overseas Self Winding Ultra-Thin.
Historiques American 1921
Vacheron Constantin has expanded its Historiques American 1921 collection with two new models that retain the signature features of the original design: a cushion-shaped case, a dial set at a 45-degree angle and an off-centre display. Introduced in the late 1910s, this design served a practical purpose, notably to allow the time to be read quickly without changing the position of the wrist.
Both versions feature a rose gold case, available in a 36.5 mm diameter with a thickness of 7.41 mm and a 40 mm diameter with a thickness of 8.06 mm. The grained silver dial is paired with a minute track and blued Arabic numerals, as well as blued gold ‘peacock’ hands. The small seconds sub-dial, positioned perpendicular to the 3 o’clock mark, remains clearly distinguishable from the hours and minutes, which are set at a 45-degree angle to the axis.
The pair is powered by the Calibre 4400 AS, a 2.8 mm-thick hand-wound in-house movement. It beats at 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and offers a power reserve of approximately 65 hours. Comprising 127 components and featuring 21 jewels, it displays the hours, minutes and small seconds. The movement is mounted in a rotating position within the case to align the displays with the diagonal architecture of the dial. The finishes include Côtes de Genève on the bridges and the balance cock, visible through the sapphire crystal case back. Water-resistant to 30 metres, the timepieces, fitted with a dark blue patinated calfskin strap, are certified with the Geneva Seal, a mark of precision.
Model with a diameter of 36.5 mm – €36,800
Model with a diameter of 40 mm – €44,600
THE TIMEPIECES MENTIONED IN THE VOX POP WITH:
ARTHUR FRYDMAN AND EDSON PANNIER, JOURNALISTS AT LE POINT, AND ETIENNE MEDDANE PASQUIER, FOUNDER OF THE MEDIA OUTLET PATINE(S) AND CONTENT CREATOR.
Arthur Frydman, Frank Sans C and Edson Pannier
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