Episode 1: Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe
Following an elegant introduction by Cyrille Vigneron, Chairman of Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation 2026, Frank Sans C invites you inside this outstanding trade show. The first instalment of this seven-episode series features the long-awaited new releases from Rolex for the 100th anniversary of the Oyster and an exclusive interview with Ilaria Resta, the CEO of Audemars Piguet, who unveils her “House of Wonders” concept alongside three marvellous timepieces, known as the Établisseurs. Plus, a surprise guest for our vox pop: François-Jean Daehn, the Director of Montaigne Publications, tells us about the latest Patek Philippe.
The comeback of the greatest brands, new trends: watchmaking reinvents itself in Geneva
Against a backdrop of international tensions in the Middle East, the Watches and Wonders 2026 trade show demonstrates its resilience and enduring appeal. Chairman Cyrille Vigneron remains confident: the event is unfolding in a positive atmosphere, driven by a never-failing enthusiasm.
With around 60,000 attendees expected, this event has sold out. Not a single public ticket left, which shows the ever-growing fascination with prestige watchmaking. In total, 65 brands have gathered at Watches and Wonders 2026, offering an extensive overview of the industry. Among the standout moments is Audemars Piguet’s noteworthy comeback. Having left the SIHH several years ago, this brand makes its official return to the trade show, marking a symbolic and strategic milestone for the event. Beyond the major announcements, this year’s fair highlights new aesthetic directions. Smaller case diameters are gaining ground, revealing that tastes are shifting towards greater simplicity and elegance. At the same time, traditional gender codes are fading: today, people choose watches that suit their personal style, regardless of conventional classifications. The horizons are broadening, with the industry becoming increasingly mindful of present-day expectations. Among the commercial successes, the comeback of great brands and the trend shifts, the Watches and Wonders fair reinforces its special place in the watchmaking world.
Watches and Wonders 2026 key figures:
65 brands
Around 60,000 unique visitors
6,000 retailers
1,750 international journalists
25,000 tickets sold during the three public days
In the spotlight in this first episode: Rolex new releases, celebrating the centenary of the Oyster, and a modern rite of passage at Audemars Piguet.
ROLEX
Oyster Perpetual 41: The Exclusive Anniversary Piece
With this new Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41, Rolex skilfully plays with its own design heritage. The timepiece reinterprets yellow Rolesor—the Crown’s historical combination of gold and steel—with a clever twist: the convex bezel and screw-down Twinlock crown are crafted from 18-carat yellow gold, while the Oyster bracelet is made entirely of Oystersteel. This unexpected aesthetic choice departs from the traditional gold centre-link configuration, giving the timepiece a more technical feel.
It is the attention to detail that actually defines the Oyster Perpetual’s commemorative character. Designed to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Oyster case, it points up several nods: a “100” motif appears on a raised-surface of the crown, while the sun-brushed slate dial bears the inscription ‘100 years’ at 6 o’clock instead of the traditional ‘Swiss Made’ marking. Meanwhile, the minute track is punctuated by green squares at each five-minute interval, perfectly matching the signature Rolex green typography, which appears for the first time in this colour.
Behind this masterful aesthetic lies a high-precision mechanism. Powered by the self-winding calibre 3230, the watch boasts a generous power reserve of roughly 70 hours and an accuracy of –2/+2 seconds per day, in line with Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer certification standards, which were strengthened in 2026. Equipped with the Chronergy escapement and a blue paramagnetic Parachrom hairspring, the movement is a prime example of the manufacture’s technical expertise.
Guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres, protected by glareproof sapphire crystal and assembled on an Oyster bracelet with an Easylink comfort extension, the Oyster Perpetual 41 marries robustness with elegance. An anniversary release, which goes far beyond the celebration of its past, to claim a present-day vision of the icon. Introduced in the late 1930s, the metallic Oyster bracelet discloses large and flat three-piece links and is fitted with an Oysterclasp.
features three wide, flat metal links and is fitted with an Oysterclasp clasp.
€9,350
Click here for the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 spec sheet.
Oyster Perpetual 36: an Oyster that never lacks spark
The new Oyster Perpetual 36 stands out with a unique dial that reimagines the Crown’s historic design—the classic Jubilee motif—elevating it into a decidedly modern aesthetic. The result is a multi-coloured, graphic, and dynamic dial that instantly catches the eye.
Introduced in the late 1970s, the Jubilee motif has been rather brillantly reimagined here. The letters of the “Rolex” name intertwine in a play of contrasts involving no fewer than ten distinct shades. It is a genuine technical marvel, as applying each colour one after the other requires exceptional precision to ensure the pattern lines up flawlessly. This meticulous craftsmanship gives the dial an outstanding depth and texture, making it the calling card of this release.
The well-proportioned 36 mm case stays loyal to the collection’s DNA. Crafted from Oystersteel—a 904L alloy, renowned for its corrosion resistance and lasting sheen—it combines robustness with elegance. The polished domed bezel contrasts elegantly with the satin-finished sides, whilst the three-piece link Oyster bracelet, fitted with the Easylink comfort extension system, ensures an exceptional ease of wear.
On the mechanical front, the watch is powered by the calibre 3230, a self-winding movement built entirely in-house. Certified as a Superlative Chronometer, it guarantees an accuracy of –2/+2 seconds per day and a power reserve of roughly 70 hours. Equipped with the Chronergy escapement and a Parachrom hairspring, it stands out for its enhanced resistance to shocks and magnetic fields. With this Oyster Perpetual 36, Rolex has proven once again its ability to seamlessly blend heritage and modernity. This timepiece feels both technical and expressive, confirming that simplicity can, at times, be imbued with a striking uniqueness.
€6,500
Click here for the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 spec sheet.
Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona: an icon reinterpreted
As a brand-new spin on the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, this model introduces an association of Oystersteel and platinum, known as Rolesium. The 40 mm Oyster case, waterproof to 100 metres maintains its one-piece architecture with a screw-down Triplock crown and chronograph pushers. It is further enhanced by a see-through sapphire case back with glareproof coating, circled within a platinum ring.
This striking bezel stands out owing to its rich blend of zirconia and tungsten carbide. It includes a recessed tachymeter scale with the markings rendered in platinum via PVD coating. The numbers sit horizontally, offering a subtle nod to historical references. The overall construction provides exceptional resistance to scratches and corrosion.
The white enamel dial is crafted using the traditional grand feu technique, fired at temperatures exceeding 800°C. Unlike conventional methods, the enamel is applied to separate ceramic bases for the main dial and sub-dials before being assembled onto a brass plate. The 18 ct white gold hour markers and hands are filled with Chromalight to ensure excellent visibility in all conditions.
The watch is driven by the calibre 4131, a bidirectional self-winding mechanical chronograph movement. It’s designed with a column wheel and vertical clutch, ticking away at 28,800 vibrations per hour. The nickel-phosphorus Chronergy escapement, the paramagnetic Parachrom hairspring, and the Paraflex shock absorbers ensure timekeeping stability. Regulated to a tolerance of –2/+2 seconds per day, it offers a power reserve of roughly 72 hours. The movement, visible through the case back, reveals bridges decorated with Rolex Côtes de Genève and an ajouré oscillating weight in yellow gold.
The three-link Oyster bracelet in Oystersteel is fitted with an Oysterlock clasp and a 5-mm Easylink comfort extension. The whole package carries the Superlative Chronometer certification and a five-year global warranty.
€56,200
Click here for the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona spec sheet.
Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41: going green
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 pairs a 41 mm Oyster case in Oystersteel with white gold, sitting at a neat 11.60 mm thick. With its solid caseband, screw-down back, and Twinlock double waterproof system, its water resistance is guaranteed up to 100 metres.
La lunette cannelée en or gris, héritée d’une fonction initiale de vissage, constitue aujourd’hui un élément visuel distinctif.
The fluted white gold bezel, which originally served for screwing down onto the case, is now a highly distinctive hallmark for the watch. With its subtle fumé effect, the green dial rests on a green lacquered base, onto which a black concentric gradient is sprayed. The 18-carat white gold hour markers and hands, filled with Chromalight, provide a long-lasting blue glow. The display includes central hours, minutes, and seconds, as well as an instantaneous date display window at 3 o’clock, enhanced by a Cyclops lens—the collection’s signature—integrated into the glareproof sapphire crystal.
The self-winding movement (calibre 3235) beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz). It includes a nickel-phosphorus Chronergy escapement, a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring, and Paraflex shock absorbers. The variable-inertia balance wheel is adjusted using Microstella nuts. The entire mechanism offers a power reserve of roughly 70 hours and an accuracy of –2/+2 seconds per day after casing, perfectly in line with the Superlative Chronometer certification.
The three-piece link Oyster bracelet, crafted from Oystersteel, alternates between polished and satin finishes. It is also fitted with an Oysterclasp featuring an Easylink extension for quick adjustments of around 5 mm.
€11,350
Click here for the Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 spec sheet.
AUDEMARS PIGUET
HOUSE OF WONDERS at Watches and Wonders 2026: An Exhibition Bridging the Brand’s Past and Future
“Watchmaking has always been about collaboration and transmission,” recalls Ilaria Resta, CEO of Audemars Piguet, confiding in our tick-tock fanatic. To mark its 150th anniversary, the manufacture discloses the Atelier des Établisseurs, a new project launched at Watches and Wonders, focused on co-creation with independent workshops.
The project is presented at the fair through an immersive installation entitled the “House of Wonders”. Conceived as an educational journey, it combines the history of watchmaking with movement design and the various types of complications.
The attendee can also observe decorative techniques and recent innovations, with heritage pieces systematically displayed alongside present-day creations. This dialogue highlights the evolution of technical solutions, materials and ergonomics, whilst underscoring the enduring continuity of craftsmanship.
The exhibition includes interactive modules and craftsmen on hand to demonstrate their methods and creations. The conclusion is a space divided into two sections: a research and development laboratory spanning five generations of innovation, and the Atelier des Établisseurs. The latter revives the historic principle of établissage — a network-based system prevalent in the Vallée de Joux from the 18th century to the mid-20th century — whereby the Maison coordinated the production of components made by specialised workshops before final assembly.
In its modern iteration, the Atelier des Établisseurs relies on internal and external collaborations to produce limited series which combine rare crafts and traditional techniques.
The first timepieces shown here exemplify this approach, combining age-old processes with contemporary tools to produce watches in very limited numbers, with a high level of hand-finishing. Let’s take a closer look at the Atelier des Établisseurs:
Bringing back a Founding System
The Atelier des Établisseurs is dedicated to the creation of very limited-edition watches through collaboration between specialised crafts. It is the heritage of the établissage system, a historical work organisation that emerged in the late 18th century in the Vallée de Joux, where independent craftsmen produced components and finishes prior to final assembly by an établisseur. Housed within the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet, this new space recreates the concept by bringing together complementary skills to create contemporary masterpieces. Engravers, enamellers, watchmakers, specialised in skeletonisation, gem-setters and lapidaries work alongside designers and engineers. Each contributor focuses on a specific stage of the process, from manufacturing components to their decoration and casing. The timepieces produced by this workshop use modern calibres adapted to the requirements of each project. The movements are hand-decorated using traditional finishing techniques before being assembled on-site. This approach opts for limited production runs, in order to create highly refined artisanal work, which is often does not suit industrial production.
Three brand-new watches are spearheading this programme presented at the Watches and Wonders 2026 fair. They epitomise the ambition of preserving rare techniques whilst bringing them into contemporary watchmaking.
Établisseurs Galets: The Pinnacle of Watches and Shaped Calibres
This version takes its cues straight from the Vallée de Joux and the appearance of pebbles smoothed by the lake’s waters. Crafted in 18-carat gold, it brings out a case with softly rounded contours, waterproof to 20 metres, and comes in between 7.5 mm and 8.8 mm thick depending on the configuration. The dial carved from natural stone—turquoise, in this case—with no hour markers, is elegantly swept by gold baton hands and an applied “AP” monogram.
The 18-carat gold bracelet warrants attention on several fronts. It features irregularly shaped tiger’s eye links, joined by tiny spheres that drape elegantly over the wrist as it moves.
The watch is powered by the manual-winding calibre 3098, derived from the in-house calibre 3090 developed in 1999. This shaped movement, roughly 20.3 mm in diameter and 2.8 mm thick, contains 141 components. It offers a 48-hour power reserve and beats at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour). The bridges highlight a hand-frosted finish. Assembled, adjusted, and cased by a single watchmaker, the piece will also be available later this year in five further variations, combining different natural stones.
Price on request
Click here for the Établisseurs Galets spec sheet.
Établisseurs Nomade: The Future of the Pocket Watch
This “multifunction” model can be worn as a pendant, used as a pocket watch, or set up as a desk clock. Its case is a mix of titanium and custom-cut natural stones. The structure is based on a sliding system: the inner case, adorned with onyx, glides into an outer case on a track activated by a concealed double pusher. The entire unit is waterproof to 20 metres with a thickness of 13.8 mm.
The outer meteorite dial is protected by a glareproof sapphire crystal. Beneath it, the skeletonised movement defines the display, with bridges that serve as hour markers alongside polished steel baton hands. The exterior housing highlights a bevelled metal mesh set with faceted stones, giving the piece a bold architectural character. A 40 cm titanium chain provides the perfect finish to the piece.
The watch is powered by the manual-winding calibre 7501, derived from the calibre 7121 launched in 2022. Measuring 33.4 mm in diameter and 3.69 mm thick, it involves 149 components. It offers a 65-hour power reserve and beats at 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour). The movement is entirely hand-skeletonised using a fretsaw — an ultra-precise piercing tool — showcasing notable cutting and finishing work.
Price on request
Click here for the Établisseurs Nomade spec sheet.
Établisseurs Peacock: A Timepiece That Fans Its Tail
Last but not least, the Établisseurs Peacock reimagines the concept of the secret watch through a complex structure involving an automaton. Snapped shut, the piece takes on the stunning appearance of a finely engraved white gold beetle.
A hidden mechanism allows the wings and head to deploy with a simple push, revealing an interior centred around a miniature hand-crafted peacock. The 18-carat gold case, waterproof to 20 metres and 17 mm thick, houses the entire mobile device.
The dial, concealed beneath the metalwork, is formed of engraved gold applied in layers at varying depths. Behind it, sits a hand-engraved, translucent enamel backdrop that fans the bird’s tail. The hours are displayed through an aperture at 12 o’clock, by means of a wandering hour system.
The entire piece is protected and enhanced by the opening of the automaton, powered by a manual-winding movement, which offers approximately 48 hours of power reserve. The 18-carat white gold bracelet consists of pierced and engraved feather-shaped links, joined by gold beads. A double-safety jeweler’s clasp is built in. Word has it that three variations are slated for 2027. We cannot wait!
Price on request
Click here for the Établisseurs Peacock spec sheet.
THE TIMEPIECES MENTIONED IN THE VOX POP WITH FRANÇOIS-JEAN DAEHN, President of Montaigne Publications
Nautilus 5810/1G-001 en or gris – €87,700.
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