Under the charm of Rodrigues
A giant rock floating in the middle of the Indian Ocean, far from everything, like a forgotten place. This is a proper hideaway where life as we enjoy it offers the simple pleasures of a bygone era. Cheers, Rodrigues.
For its 44,450 residents, urgency doesn’t exist. They wish to escape the world chaos. Rodrigues marches to the beat of its own drum. 585 kilometres from Mauritius, the mainland it depends on. The days drift by at a unique pace. The sea breeze sweeps across the vast lagoon, the catch of the day, sold off the beach. Delightful. The bus stop, the ideal place for gossip. A slow life under the endless sky. It breathes fierce freedom into the soul. J.M.G. Le Clézio, a Nobel laureate loves this island unconditionally. He wrote in Voyage à Rodrigues (Journey to Rodrigues): “A sense of slowness is here, remoteness, foreign to the world of ordinary men… Like eternity, like the infinite.” Jeanne Cherhal doubles it down in her song about Rodrigues: “The air is sweet when it belongs to another era. And this slow life — utter slowness — rules over bodies and souls.”
Cherishing a jewel
Let us be clear. This laid-back charm doesn’t mean complacency or laziness. Conversely, the island fights tooth and nail for Mauritius to supply it better in order to put an end to shortages. The cargo supply ship is currently struggling to keep up. Today, no baby milk, tomorrow, no domestic gas, and further down the line, no petrol, no paper, no fabrics… Come on, Mauritius, show a bit more respect! Rodrigues deserves it, at least for its ability to inspire its big sister. Look at how this islet banned plastic bags. Mauritius followed suit. Or how it strictly regulated urites (local octopuses) and tuna fishing to protect stocks. This idea is gaining power across the entire Indian Ocean. In addition, plenty of Mauritians look for a proper holiday far away from rolling news channels, influencers, and stock market. Please, Mauritius, look after her — cherish this jewel!
The 52-Bend Road
The modest local community revolves around two main pillars: the church and the market. The former sends its prayers up from Saint-Gabriel, a small town rather proud of its cathedral. It may lack any sense of charm, but with 2,000 worshippers gathering on a fervent Sunday, you will be moved for sure. Quite symbolically, you get there by following the “52-Bend Road”. It turns its way up like a twister into the sky to an altitude of 670 metres.
The second market sets up every morning under the market halls of Port-Mathurin, the island’s mini-capital (home to about 6,000 souls). Small talk, bartering, and laughters all around, among pyramids of fruit and vegetables, stalls bursting with spices, local basketry (specialty from here), and souvenirs. It is all about the joy of getting together — you will have so much to share with people. This raft rides the ocean on a ray of sunshine.
Kitesurfer Bay
Round off your trip by exploring Mourouk Bay. It is a vast and sweeping crescent covered in shades of blue. The pristine beach gathers kitesurfing enthusiasts. The world-renowned spot (which hosts competitions in June and July) attracts champions and beginners alike. Standing guard over this sublime bay, the C Mourouk hotel offers full taster sessions. It serves up a permanent show from its rooms and terrace. From dawn till dusk, dozens of riders show off their best twists and flips. The applauses are enough to convince anyone — right, let us give it a go!
10,000 tortoises
Next up, we head to the François Leguat Reserve. This Frenchman landed on Rodrigues in 1691. His logbook tells us about thousands of tortoises living peacefully, far from the troubles of the world. Sadly, for two centuries, passing sailors and pirates helped themselves to a fresh meat ration, driving the giant tortoises to extinction. Today, across 20 hectares, the Reserve is reviving this lost natural heritage. It provides a haven for 10,000 tortoises pampered as never before. A delightful guided walk winds among these gentle residents. It leads into a vast cave where, obviously, a pirate’s treasure is said to lie hidden. Feel free to bring your dowsing rod.
« The air is heady. The air is full of life. »
Our guide points out that the start and finish lines of the Grand Trail de Rodrigues (held in early November and attracting around 1,400 runners) are just outside the entrance to the reserve. The race covers 73 kilometres, a distance the elite runners complete in just a few hours.
Those with less ambitious legs will be happier exploring the island’s hundred other walking trails. They wind beneath banyan trees and eucalyptus. Every route rewards you with sweeping XXL views, watched over by timeless smallholdings. A chicken coop, neat vegetable plots, a dog dosing in the shade, and a friendly chat to catch your breath. Discover a new way to feel time. It is enough to convince you that Rodrigues does have a braveheart. As French singer Jeanne Cherhal puts it:
“Deep down, I know I could have lived here,
Bare-breasted in leather, with a few books near.
Far from the clamour, the world is endless strife,
The air is wild and heady. The air is full of life.”
Practical Info
Daily flights operated by Air Mauritius from Paris, via Mauritius. From €1,100 return in Economy Class. www.airmauritius.com
C Rodrigues Mourouk Hotel, located right in front of the kitesurfing spot. Roughly €300 per night for a double room, including breakfast. www.c-resorts.com
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