Sandhamn, the jewel of Stockholm
The go-to island for Swedes and sailing enthusiasts is at its brightest during the summer months, when the sun shines through until midnight.
To the locals, the island life owes less to the myth of Robinson and far more to the pleasure of elegance. After all, Stockholm’s archipelago boasts over 30,000 of these pocket-sized kingdoms floating in the Baltic Sea, for a city of less than a million people. To live here — with windows wide open to the sea, a symphony of seabirds, a dashing Delta motorboat moored at the boardwalk — all while pristine nature thrives a few nautical miles from the Royal Palace, the central station, and the Opera. Welcome to the essence of the Swedish dream.
Pine groves and designer cabins
To enjoy it, head for the most desirable of these islands: Sandhamn — a gem, just a mile long and home to 120 residents. To get there, leave central Stockholm behind and hop on the bus to Stavsnäs. After an hour’s drive, you will board a small ferry for a 30-minute crossing, weaving through massive rocks surrounded by pine groves. You will find designer cabins of wealthy taxpayers hidden in the forest, alongside retreats snapped up by those who seek another lifestyle far from the rat race and the world’s troubles — unless the islands are a stopover for passing frigates or gannets. Eventually, Sandhamn comes into view.
The beach is called Trouville
Its boardwalks run right up to a crescent of little cottages. Their wooden walls are painted in shades of burgundy and yellow. Two beaches (one of which is actually called Trouville!) offer a spot for a swim — always a chilly one. At the heart of it, a pine grove crowns the island, criss-crossed with paths. A delight to hikers. No cars, one school for the five local kids, no CCTV, a little corner shop, and two police officers just in case. There are two restaurants, including the Värdshus, which opened its doors back in 1622. Downstairs, you will find a proper sailors’ boozer where a frothy pint welcomes them back to dry land; upstairs, you will be in a refined dining room. Eventually, there is the hotel — the 4-star Sandhamn Seglarhotell. By royal decree, it serves as the home of the Royal Swedish Yacht Club. Classy.
Two flagship regattas
The island does boast a great sailing tradition, all while the sun forgets to set. From mid-June to early August, silvery from the dawn, still dazzling when the good fellows sit for dinner, it turns opal as it skims the horizon. Quite a spectacle. It lights up everyday life and is an invitation to celebrate. Pop-up bars and buskers provide the soundtrack to this wonder.
Sandhamn plays host to numerous summer regattas, two of which are great highlights. The first, takes place on the Friday closest to the 21st of June. The kings of the winch meet there. They really put their backs into it, racing all the way to the island of Gotland, and back. A true competition. The second, more laid back takes place in early August. It draws historic yachts that compete to be awarded as the most elegant or prestigious. The awards ceremony is quite a show, held right in front of the classic boats moored just offshore. Good news for the owners: the Seglarhotell’s chilled cellar is well-stocked with Dom Pérignon (€1,000 a bottle).
An island for her
Outside, the daylight is just beginning to fade. Sailors take a breather. Spectators enjoy the balmy evening. A quiet temptation to stroll hand-in-hand sheltered by the pines, or sit on a rock lapped by impatient little waves. Time doesn’t matter; the day lingers on, giving way to the sound of silence and secrets. An island for her, at midnight with him. In Sandhamn, the sun is the source of marvels.
Transavia operates a 2.5-hour flight from Paris to Stockholm (www.transavia.com). Expect between €300 and €600 per night for a double room, breakfast included, at the Seglarhotell (www.sandhamn.com).
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