Elegance according to the Vacheron Constantin manufacture

The First Watchmaking Concours d’Élégance

The initiative is not merely about bringing together fine vintage timepieces. It also seeks to celebrate the richness of the manufacture’s heritage and pay tribute to those who, over the decades and generations, have ensured its preservation and transmission. For this first edition, the scope was limited to pocket watches and wristwatches produced between 1755 and 1999; clocks and quartz watches that had undergone significant modifications were excluded.

Owners were required to enter their timepiece into one of seven categories: striking mechanisms, chronographs, astronomical complications, multiple complications, Chronomètre Royal, artistic crafts (métiers d’art), or design. This range allows for a dialogue between timepieces with very different purposes from technical feats and aesthetic expression to techniques such as engraving, enameling, or guillochage.

Seven prizes awarded by an international jury

To evaluate these exceptional timepieces, the jury will rely on nine criteria, including authenticity, elegance, rarity, provenance, technical complexity, artistic craftsmanship, and condition. It should also be noted that the emotional dimension carries as much weight as the watch’s impact on the history of the manufacture or on the history of watchmaking as a whole.
Co-chaired by Aurel Bacs, a senior consultant at Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo, and Christian Selmoni, Director of Style & Heritage at Vacheron Constantin, the jury brings together a diverse group of experts, including watchmakers, historians, designers, journalists and collectors. Among them are Felix Baumgartner, co-founder of Urwerk; Benjamin Clymer, founder of Hodinkee; and several other recognized specialists in both vintage and modern horology.

Co-chaired by Aurel Bacs and Christian Selmoni, the jury brings together experts, watchmakers, designers, historians, journalists, authors, collectors, advisors, and key figures from the watch industry:

Watches are permitted to compete in only one of the 7 categories (at the owner’s discretion):

1. Striking mechanism: pocket watches and wristwatches equipped exclusively with a minute, quarter, half-quarter, or grand sonnerie (grand strike) repeating mechanism.

2. Chronographs: pocket watches and wristwatches equipped with a chronograph featuring two or three sub-dials, a single pusher, or a split-seconds mechanism.

3. Astronomical complications: pocket watches and wristwatches equipped with a triple calendar, a complete calendar, or a perpetual calendar.

4.Multiple complications: pocket watches and wristwatches that incorporate at least two complications such as a tourbillon, striking mechanism (quarter or minute repeater), chiming function, chronograph, split-seconds chronograph, complete or perpetual calendar, or celestial chart.

5. Chronomètre Royal: pocket watches and wristwatches bearing the official “Chronomètre Royal” designation, issued from 1907 onwards.

6. Artistic crafts: pocket watches and wristwatches featuring engraving, enameling, gem-setting, guilloché, or any other decorative art, excluding skeletonized pieces. 

7. Design : pocket watches and wristwatches featuring a signature Vacheron Constantin design, whether in terms of their exterior appearance or the way time is displayed—such as retrograde displays, jumping hours, world time, etc.

See you on November 10th

Beyond the presentation of trophies which carry no financial reward this competition aims to highlight the diversity of the Maison’s creations and the vital role collectors play in preserving its history. Founded in 1755, Vacheron Constantin boasts over 270 years of continuous operation a span of time that the participating watches offer a tangible glimpse into. The verdict will be announced on November 10th in Geneva, coinciding with Phillips’ autumn watch auctions. It is a date for enthusiasts to mark on their calendars, as they will then have the chance to discover the models honored in this inaugural edition of the Concours d’Élégance Horlogère.

Head to the Vacheron Constantin boutique at 2 rue de la Paix in the 2nd arrondissement of Paris.

This show is also an opportunity to review a few interesting timepieces from the brand: four vintage models selected by Christian Selmoni, and four contemporary watches chosen by Frank Sans C.

Vintage watches presented by Christian Selmoni:

Contemporary watches chosen by Frank Sans C:

Patrimony Automatique in white gold

Pure lines and timeless elegance define this white gold Patrimony timepiece. Inspired by watches from the 1950s, it features a 40 mm diameter case that is just 8.55 mm thick, with water-resistance up to 30 meters. The opaline silver dial accented by a domed outer zone is punctuated with slender applied hour markers and swept over by white gold baton-style hands. A date display, positioned at 6 o’clock, integrates discreetly into the overall design. Certified by the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, the model is powered by an in-house automatic movement with a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. Visible through a sapphire crystal caseback, the movement features an openworked 22-carat gold oscillating weight, adorned with a Maltese cross the emblem of the Maison.

€37,500

View the details of the Patrimony Automatic watch

Patrimony Moon Phase – Retrograde Date in white gold

Much like its counterpart presented above, the Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date cultivates a sense of timelessness, enhanced by a subtle two-tone interplay. Its 42.5 mm white gold case houses a sunburst-finished, vintage-silver-toned dial, whose reflections harmonize with the rose gold indices and hands. Two complications grace the dial: at 6 o’clock, an aperture reveals the moon phases and the age of the moon with such precision that an adjustment is required only once every 122 years.

In the upper section, the retrograde date follows an arc a technical and aesthetic signature of Vacheron Constantin. These functions are powered by an in-house automatic movement, which offers a 40-hour power reserve. Visible through the sapphire caseback, the openworked 22-karat gold oscillating weight echoes the shape of the Maltese cross. An olive-green alligator strap adds an unexpected touch of color to the timepiece. The watch also bears the Hallmark of Geneva.

€57,000

Consult the technical specifications for the Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date.

Historiques 222

An icon of the sport-chic style that first appeared in 1977, this Historiques 222 is a re-edition in 3N yellow gold, remaining faithful to the model designed by Jorg Hysek for the Maison’s 222nd anniversary. Water-resistant to 50 meters, its 37 mm diameter case combines a case middle featuring taut, clean lines with a fluted bezel. The gold-toned dial retains the straight hour markers and baton-style hands of the original version, while the integrated bracelet is distinguished by its hexagonal central links. At 5 o’clock, a Maltese cross crafted from white gold is polished and then welded onto the case middle.

Beneath the sapphire caseback, the in-house automatic caliber reveals a yellow-gold oscillating weight engraved with the original 222 logo. Comprising 204 components and 27 jewels, this movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. The finishes feature a combination of vertical satin-brushing on the bracelet, circular satin-brushing on the bezel, and polished surfaces. The hands and indices are coated with Super-LumiNova, appearing off white by day and glowing lime-green in the dark a nod to the tritium used on the historical models. The bracelet, which features redesigned links, is equipped with a triple-blade folding clasp. The watch carries the prestigious Geneva Seal “Poinçon de Genève” certification.

€85,500

View the technical details of the Historiques 222 in yellow gold.

Historiques American 21

Inspired by a model created in 1921 for the American market, the Historiques American 1921 is distinguished by its 40 mm 5N rose gold cushion-shaped case and a dial tilted at a 45-degree angle. Originally designed to allow motorists to check the time without taking their hands off the steering wheel, this unconventional layout remains the watch’s signature feature. Unveiled at the most recent Watches and Wonders exhibition, the new version stands out with its grained silver-toned dial, vibrant blue Arabic numerals, and blued 18-karat gold hands. The small seconds subdial, positioned at 3 o’clock, retains a standard orientation, creating a contrast with the diagonal display of the hours and minutes.

The crown, positioned on the left, also contributes to the unique balance of the design. Inside, the hand-wound manufacture caliber offers a 65-hour power reserve. Its 127 components are visible through the sapphire case back, while the dark blue, patinated calfskin strap echoes the tones of the dial. With a thickness of 8.06 mm, the case is water-resistant to 30 meters. The watch bears the Poinçon de Genève certification.

€44,600

Consult the technical specifications for the 40 mm Historiques American 21 watch.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN WEBSITE

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Episode 2: Cartier, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin