Laziness and Tenderness in the Maldives
Word on the street is that there is absolutely nothing in the Maldives. Nothing to see, nothing to do, nothing to discover. As a matter of fact, the archipelago boasts 1,199 islands. They are very famous for their overwater bungalows but also for their museums, concert halls, or Michelin-starred bistros. But they have so much more to offer. A total escape: a symphony of blue shades, magical dives, endless space, silence, and even a brand-new way to find yourself. In short, just what you need.
To see it for ourselves, let us explore. Smooth touchdown on the lagoon of Maamunagau, a tiny island in the Raa Atoll. A 40-minute seaplane ride from Malé, the capital. On this little speck of land grow a bunch of coconut palms. It hides 81 villas. One right onto the beach or the iconic bungalow over crystal-clear waters which laps in shades of jade green and sapphire blue: the choice is yours.
The first time you see it, your jaw completely drops. After that, you get used to it. The sheer beauty, the charm of a Robinson Crusoe hideaway, the joy of letting go and living barefoot in the sand… You want more of it. She wants nothing more than to come back. Jackpot — so does he.
Total privacy
InterContinental is the brand behind the stay on Maamunagau. Here, the chain with 222 locations worldwide — brings its 5-star credentials to the beach. Karl Webster, the British Manager well-versed in the demands of tropical luxury, guarantees the absolute cream of the crop for the guests. You will get everything you wish down to the millimetre (no desire remains unfulfilled), the food scene is brilliant (six tables and bars). To top it off, there are more activities than you could ever possibly exhaust.
Whether on the beach or over the water, every villa covers around a hundred square metres. You get an XXL bed, a bathroom with a rainfall shower and bathtub, indoor and outdoor lounge areas, a terrace with a pool, open-ocean views, and total privacy — thanks to the generous spacing between bungalows, shielded by high fences. You could definitely experience worse! Each hideaway boasts a lovely little wine fridge, perfect for sharing secrets under the stars. Not to mention the (free) Wi-Fi. With it, you will show off to the rest of humanity stuck in the traffic jams of ordinary life.
Magazine sirens
Ring them up, and the electric buggy rocks up. On request, it will drop you off at one of the resort’s many beaches — unless you prefer the three pools. They include an adults-only one, seemingly reserved for magazine sirens watched over by their stubbly bodyguards. With that said, two bicycles sit waiting outside every door, so that you stay fit by pedalling along the coral path.
For a good kilometre, she walks across the atoll, from the furthest bungalow right to the edge of the kingdom, marked by a cinematic lighthouse. Their Disney-style look hits the absolute sweet spot as the sun goes down. The perfect place for golden-hour snogs. Ideal for an Instagram-happy selfie! You can even carry the night on at the Mediterranean restaurant tucked away inside this fairytale kingdom sentinel.
An inspired beat
Tomorrow, let us have dinner at the Fish Market. On the menu: freshly caught fish and shellfish, served in a replica of an old-fashioned harbour. A sturdy, incredibly lifelike trawler is moored at the floating bridge. His catch of the day is flailing around in the display tank. The nets are out to dry. The mooring lines hang slack…
Just a boat in disguise, but still a proper treat. Just like the food, which sets sail in style. All aboard! Another evening, we will give the Teppanyaki a whirl, the Japanese dining experience. The chef is a proper showman. He cooks right in front of the guests. Juggling knives and spatulas, he lights up flames which seems to burst straight from Mount Fuji. He invites fish, wagyu, veg, and sauces into a brilliant, fast-paced dance. Top marks, chef, arigatō!
The Rays of Raa
A paradise of blue shades, the Maldives earned its stripes by becoming the ideal place for divers. The InterContinental Maamunagau is no exception to the rule. Of course, you could just soak right outside your bungalow with nothing but a mask and a snorkel. It is a lovely view and a simple thrill. But we do expect better.
Hop aboard one of the house boats. Head out to the open sea. The skipper drops anchor near a massive reef flat, bristling with coral bommies, with canyons. It is carpeted in multicoloured anemones. Suddenly, a thousand fishes are swirling around. Shoals of neon tiddlers, like elderly people having a walk, silver darts, lovely Picasso triggerfish, unflappable tangs, unruffled seahorses, and nosy turtles… A multitude on this ever-changing stage. Pure bliss. Then, a ray glides past. It drifts like a silk scarf catching a passing breeze. Another manta joins her. It sweeps her up into a shared dance, before they both fade into the deep blue of a mysterious world.
Night out
The captain and his sailor are rather proud to run the “Manta Show”. The jewel of the atoll. The surrounding waters are home to over 300 of them (out of roughly 6,000 across the Maldives). The InterContinental plays host to the foundation dedicated to their protection. The team there explains just how fragile the population is — with only one birth every two to five years — as well as their intelligence, grace, and cautious nature. The captain then takes over to arrange the excursions, whether it is a simple snorkel, a scuba dive, or a night out… Even suggesting you “adopt” a young manta so you can follow her adventures via the foundation.
With a brave heart
And so life drifts by in the Maldives. You just have to look for the bare necessities. Unplugging, daydreaming, having breakfast, a dip in the sea, sunbathing, another dip, a quick afternoon nap, dressing up for dinner, admiring the view, snapping a photo, and just loving it. Synced to the gentle rhythms of the tropics, pure laziness and tenderness will come life to you. No lyrics required; the rhymes of the song of happiness come straight from the heart.
Practical Info
Getting there. There are no direct flights between France and the Maldives. Check out Etihad (layover in Abu Dhabi, www.etihad.com), Air France (layover in Dubai, https://wwws.airfrance.co.uk) Emirates (layover in Dubai, www.emirates.com), or Qatar Airways (layover in Doha, www.qatarairways.com). Fares start from €1,000 return (around €4,000 for Business Class) during off-peak dates.
Formalities. No visa is required, but a traveller declaration form must be filled out before departure at https://imuga.immigration.gov.mv/traveller.
Good to know. When it is noon in France, it is 4 pm in the Maldives during the winter and 3 pm in the summer. The InterContinental actually adds an extra hour to its resort clock so that cocktail hour perfectly aligns with the sunset. Importing alcohol is strictly forbidden (as the Maldives follows Sharia law), but drinking is permitted within the resorts. Payments can be made via credit card, Euros, or US Dollars.
Staying at the InterContinental Maamunagau. From €1,100 per night for two people, all-inclusive — excluding alcoholic drinks, some à la carte dishes, and activities. Beware, the bill can add up very quickly.
To book: www.maldives.intercontinental.com
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