Seoul sounds cool
South Korea is right at the top of our travel wishlists at the moment. Last year, 165,000 French tourists headed to Seoul: a 25% jump. The capital is simply a must-see on any trip. You will immediately get why everyone is so amazed by the Land of the Morning Calm.
Renowned for its social cohesion, cutting-edge technology, world-class cooking art and air of mystery, more than 2,500 young French people are now enrolled at South Korean universities: it surely proves the country’s appeal. Just a craze? Hardly. Rather the sign of success. Computer-crafted sound, classy choreographies, young boys singing done up like princes, K-Pop probably has a lot to do with it. Unless it is the pull of K-dramas — feel-good fare that broadcasters worldwide can’t get enough of. Korean society adds its own relentless order and age-old traditions. The country is absolutely buzzing and sweeping the board.
A forest of high-rises
A swirling snapshot of Myeongdong, right in the beating heart of Seoul. The city is home to 26 million souls — half of South Korea’s entire population, packed into a territory five times smaller than France (100 210 km²). Hence these forests of high-rises: the most hideous wins. Every neighbourhood competes with its own. Function over form, housing for everyone. In other places, they would be referred to as dormitory towns with an unlivable density (50 storeys, 500 flats).
Don’t do it in there, in this place where 70 years after a war that left the country bled dry, national drive, discipline, and success rule the country: greet your neighbours, don’t smoke outdoors — let alone fare evade on the bus — and you can forget about crossing the road if the red man is showing. Keep your voice down, never watch the clock at work (putting in up to 52 hours a week), and never, ever harass anyone in public. No mercy for cheaters. They are named, shamed, kicked out. Divorce and dismissal to follow.
Divine Soju
Conversely, Korean society overprotects its children — babies are kings, young women wear eye-wateringly short skirts, as wildly as they want, without anyone batting an eyelid, and the public transport is spot on. On top of that, end-of-year bonuses just drop into your bank account without you even asking — cheers to Samsung, KIA, LG, Hyundai, and the rest of the multinational corporations. Food and soju (the local alcohol, which costs peanuts) are shared with family, the whole clan, or a bunch of mates — loneliness, eat your heart out. You drink right up to the point of finally speaking your mind: the ultimate excuse to declare your genuine love.
Northern cousin
South Korea lives in the fast lane, at a hundred miles an hour, in constant overdrive. From smartphones and EVs to the polished beats of BTS (70 million followers): the country’s global takeover is well underway. Never mind that the birth rate has hit rock bottom. Let us gloss over the record suicide rates among young women, and keep quiet about the non-stop tension with our northern cousin (a split sealed by armistice on 23 March 1953, with no peace treaty ever signed since). Not to mention the dizzying rat race of modern consumerism — cosmetics, plastic surgery, the latest electric car, smartwatches, billboards, constant selfies, and the tyranny of apps.
Look at me, living my best life
In the backstreets of Myeongdong, fashion retailers sit cheek by jowl with shops selling beauty masks, smartphone cases, costume jewellery, cosmetics and tiny plush charms – an essential accessory among young Koreans, who use them to personalise their bags, keys and phones – beneath a canopy of colourful neon lights.
Shopping, here we come. From 4 pm right through to midnight, the dense crowd of happy shoppers pour into most of pedestrian lanes. Not the slightest jostling (never lay a finger on a stranger), just a ravenous appetite for more to see, more to own, and right now. Smartphone in hand, me playing the star on camera: “Look at me living my best life. Bet you wish you were me!
A hall of fame for treats
In this dazzling kaleidoscope of colour, the renowned street food scene steals the show, popping up on every corner. In conventional restaurants where BBQ chicken, pork, and beef take centre stage (with every table fitted with its own open flame), or at the street stalls lined up along the roads each evening.
Squid, crab, prawns, tofu, skewers, soups, fruits, and fritters tickle every tastebud. Scrumptious, as cheap as chips, and remarkably straightforward, as long as you are happy eating on the hoof without a drop to drink.
Like a film star
In the heart of Myeongdong stands Hotel 28, named after its owner’s birth year. It is a peaceful retreat, miraculously shielded from the hustle and bustle of the neighbourhood. Good news: this thoroughly deserving 3-star, 155-room hotel strikes the right balance between elegance and refinement. Hardly surprising, really, given that it belongs to Korean film legend Shin Young-kyun, now 98, who still comes in every day to work alongside his son, who now runs the show.
During the 1950s and 60s, he starred in dozens of films. Memories of his past set the scene throughout the public areas, from vintage posters and trophies to pictures, books, spotlights, and cameras. In the rooms and suites, a film-set aesthetic shines through in the white marble bathrooms, sweeping mirrors, and dressing-room vanity lights.
Unmatched energy
Somewhat unexpectedly, several of our fellow French nationals work there. Mélanie, 26 welcomes travellers arriving from France. Working there brings her the kind of integration she had always dreamed of. Furthermore, it allows her to study for a computer science degree at Seoul University: ‘Respect for others — especially women — and solidarity based on clear rules. No cheating, no scams, no jostling — I am getting to know a culture that brings so much energy to the table, yet still holds onto its age-old mysteries. It is so thrilling!‘ More than two thousand French school-leavers are getting ready to follow in Mélanie’s footsteps. Result! Korea is the place to be.
Practical info
Daily flights between Paris and Seoul (12 hours) and return flights (14 hours) are operated by Air France and Korean Air, with economy fares starting from €1,200. Business Class fares start from €6,000. https://wwws.airfrance.co.uk and www.koreanair.com
Hotel 28: from €150 to €200 per double room on less busy dates.
13 Myeongdong 7 Gil
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