IWC and Panerai: the revival of icons
This show focuses on the revival of iconic watch collections. From design to mechanics, the focus is on pure efficiency. The time-measuring instruments presented here, whether Panerai or IWC Schaffhausen models, were designed to meet the needs of lovers of fine watchmaking looking for robust, efficient, identifiable timepieces capable of accompanying them on all of life's adventures. Mike Horn, the well-known explorer, wouldn't disagree! Nor would Frank, who, in any case, can't breathe when he holds it in his arms...
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What a pleasure to see renowned manufacturers present us with marvels within iconic collections! And this year we are spoiled because we also have two Perpetual Calendars…
Frank Sans C
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IWC Schaffhausen, Ingenieur collection
Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 : eternal efficiency
For the first time, the manufacturer based in Schaffhausen, in German-speaking Switzerland, has integrated the perpetual calendar, produced in the mid-1980s by Kurt Klaus, the brand’s developer, into the case of the Ingenieur, designed by designer Gérald Genta in 1974.
The 41 mm diameter steel case features an identifiable bezel and a bracelet with meticulous finishes, alternating satin-brushed and polished surfaces. The blue dial, adorned with the iconic “Grille” motif, houses the three perpetual calendar counters. These are harmoniously integrated to form a balanced composition. Thus, the counter at 3 o’clock indicates the date, while the one at 6 o’clock combines the month and the moon phase display, with such precision (also known as perpetual) that its display will only be shifted by one day after 577.5 years.
This feat is made possible by the presence of a specific gear train. In addition to indicating the day of the week, the counter located at 9 o’clock includes a small indicator that counts down the years until the next leap year. Thanks to its sophisticated mechanism, the calendar automatically adds a 29th day at the end of February when necessary, until 2100 (which will exceptionally not be a leap year).
This instrument, with its instantly recognizable design, features rhodium-plated hands and metal indexes, filled with Super-LumiNova® to ensure excellent readability. The entire movement is powered by the IWC-manufactured mechanical self-winding caliber 82600, which offers a 60-hour power reserve at 4 Hz. Visible through the sapphire crystal case back, the movement benefits from the highly efficient Pellaton winding system, optimized by the presence of ceramic components. Water-resistant to 100 meters, this model is worn on an integrated steel bracelet.
€40,200
Consult the technical sheet of the IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41
Ingenieur Automatic 42 black ceramic : dark matter
IWC Schaffhausen has nearly four decades of expertise in ceramics. In 1986, the Swiss watchmaker presented the world’s first wristwatch with a black zirconium oxide ceramic case.
The Ingenieur Automatic 42 combines for the first time the integrated bracelet design imagined by Gérald Genta with a proposal entirely in black ceramic.
Today, the manufacturer offers a version entirely in black ceramic. In keeping with this iconic design, the timepiece adopts an innovative case construction, using several components made from this scratch-resistant material, such as the casing ring, the bezel, the case back, as well as the crown protector and the crown. The ceramic elements receive an advanced surface treatment: satin-brushed, sandblasted and polished. The whole is powered by the IWC-manufactured automatic caliber, reference 82110. Visible through a tinted sapphire crystal case back, it benefits from exemplary finishes, the Pellaton winding system and offers a 60-hour power reserve.
€21,200
Consult the technical sheet of the Ingenieur Automatic 42 in black ceramic.
Ingenieur Automatic 40 5N Gold : Red with happiness
Presented in 2023, the Ingenieur Automatic 40 draws inspiration from the bold aesthetic codes of the Ingenieur SL reference 1832, which Gérald Genta imagined in the 1970s. Meticulously revisited, this 40 mm diameter model, water-resistant to 100 meters, meets the most demanding requirements in terms of ergonomics and finishes and adds to the already rich collection a new Ingenieur Automatic 40 (ref. IW328702) made entirely of 18-carat red gold.
A remarkable identifying feature, its bezel is held in place by five functional screws and focuses the eye on the black dial adorned with the “Grille” motif. This is composed of fine lines and small squares that add texture and depth to the dial. The whole is driven by the manufacture’s self-winding mechanical caliber, which, visible through the transparent caseback and carefully finished, is equipped with a gold-plated oscillating weight with bidirectional pawls guaranteeing a 120-hour power reserve.
€50,600
Consult the technical sheet of the IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 watch in 750/1000 red gold.
Ingenieur Automatic 35 : multi-task diameter
IWC completes its Ingenieur collection with an automatic version available in 35 mm diameter, only 9.44 mm thick and available in three different versions.
One of them combines an 18-carat red gold case and bracelet with a gold-colored dial. The other two references have a stainless steel case and bracelet, paired with a silver or black dial (ref. IW324906). Despite its more compact dimensions, the Ingenieur Automatic 35 combines all the codes of the original Ingenieur: a bezel with five functional screws, an integrated bracelet secured via the central links and a dial adorned with a grid pattern with applied indexes. For these little marvels, designers and engineers worked together to ensure that each part and each feature are faithful to the initial version in terms of proportions and finishes, despite its reduced size.
Ergonomic and comfortable, the three new timepieces alternate polished and satin-finished surfaces, adding texture and creating wonderful plays of light. The watches are equipped with a transparent caseback allowing you to admire the self-winding caliber 47110 with a gold-plated oscillating weight, which ensures a power reserve of approximately 42 hours.
IW324903 – red gold – €41,000
IW324901 – steel – silver-plated dial – €11,100
IW324906 – steel – black dial – €11,100
Ingenieur Automatic Green : Star face
IWC has unveiled a special edition of the Ingenieur Automatic 40 featuring a green dial for the occasion. Available in a limited edition of 1,000 pieces, this model is inspired by the watch worn by Sonny Hayes, the main character in the highly anticipated film F1®, played by actor Brad Pitt, produced by Apple Original Films.
Indeed, the veteran racing driver wears a customized version of the Ingenieur SL Reference 1832 with a green dial, his signature color. This bespoke timepiece inspired the new special edition of the Ingenieur Automatic 40, which features a stainless steel case and bracelet. Like in the film, it features a green dial adorned with a grid pattern and gold-tone appliques. The iconic bezel, a true signature, is attached to the caseband with five functional screws. Water-resistant to 100 meters, this caseband houses the in-house automatic caliber bearing the reference 32111, which ensures a generous 120-hour power reserve. The whole is worn on the now-famous integrated steel bracelet closed by a folding clasp.
€14,000
Consult the technical sheet for reference IW328908.
PANERAI
Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platiniumtech : a perpetual adventure
This complicated watch represents Panerai’s commitment to progress both technically and aesthetically. It combines the typical design elements of the Maison’s most iconic collection with the watchmaking complexity of the perpetual calendar and the preciousness of Panerai Platinumtech™.
With its sapphire crystal dial, which reveals the subtleties and secrets of the caliber, the new Luminor offers a unique insight into the art of timekeeping. As Alessandro Ficarelli, Panerai’s CMO, said: “This reference reflects Panerai’s desire to create a precision tool, but also a refined piece that reflects the Italian Maison’s heritage of innovation and ergonomics.” Its 44 mm case is crafted from Panerai Platinumtech™, a special alloy composed of 95% pure platinum, but 40% harder than native platinum thanks to an exclusive treatment, making it more resistant to scratches. The robust case is completed by the iconic crown-protecting bridge and a blue sapphire crystal dial, which reveals the day and date discs through a transparent window. Note that the luminescent coating is made with SuperLumiNova® X2, a green version that performs better than conventional treatments. On the dial side, you can read the local time and GMT over 12 hours at the tip of the dedicated hand, as well as the day and date in a double window open at 3 o’clock. The other indications useful for daily adjustment are on the back of the watch and can be read through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback.
The other indications useful for daily setting are located on the back of the watch and are readable through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback. Here we see the counter for setting and displaying the months, and the one indicating whether the year is a leap year or not. The whole is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement with a diameter of 15.5 lignes (35.1 mm) and a thickness of 7 mm. It is the result of more than ten years of research and development at Panerai’s Laboratorio di Idee. It is equipped with two barrels, recharged by an off-center gold micro-rotor, whose heavy weight guarantees optimal winding. One of the most remarkable innovations of the watch is the intuitive setting system, allowing the day, date, month and leap year to be set using only the crown. This feature allows for smooth adjustments, both forward and backward, without restriction, even during sensitive transition periods such as the end of a day or month.
Furthermore, the movement is equipped with the patented Panerai anti-shock protection system, which stabilizes the date disc, ensuring its precision and resistance to daily use. Thanks to the new patented GMT spring, featuring a particular geometry, the frequency of maintenance is reduced, improving the durability of the watch. Water-resistant to 50 meters, it has been subjected to pressure up to 25% higher than the guaranteed water-resistance value. It is presented with an elegant dark blue alligator strap with a hand-patinated finish, matching the dial and the GMT hand. A blue rubber strap is also supplied to suit all occasions. The PAM01575 model is exclusively available in Panerai boutiques.
€78,000
Technical Details:
Movement
Mechanical self-winding, P.4100 caliber, 15.5 lignes, 7.0 mm thick, 55 jewels, 28,800 vibrations/hour, Glucydur® balance, KIF® anti-shock device, two barrels, 429 components, balance wheel stop and seconds reset device, patented anti-shock date protection system, patented GMT spring.
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, perpetual calendar (day, date, month, leap year, and year), GMT hand at 12 o’clock, power reserve, seconds reset.
Power reserve
3 days.
Case
44 mm, polished Panerai Platinumtech™ case and bezel. Screw-down transparent sapphire crystal case back.
Dial
Sapphire crystal.
Strap
Dark blue alligator with a hand-finished vintage patina, white gold buckle.
Water resistance
5 bar (approximately 50 meters)
Luminor Marina : Mare Nostrum
The name Luminor comes from the luminous material created by Panerai, which enabled the creation of the first watches bearing the same name in the early 1960s. These very specific characteristics, initially designed for the Italian Navy, were later adapted for the general public. Among these was the famous crown protection device, designed to prevent water infiltration into the case. It remains the signature of the collection today.
At Watches and Wonders 2025, Panerai celebrates the legacy of the Luminor Marina with a series of new developments, both in terms of details and technical features, all new but faithful to its fundamental pillars: aesthetics, reliability and functionality. Available in titanium and steel, these 44 mm diameter watches are instantly recognizable thanks to their bold lines. The strong graphics remain unchanged, whether it be the iconic security system or the luminous sandwich dial, offering optimal readability, thanks to the use of Super-LumiNova® X2.
All pieces in the Luminor Marina line are powered by the new P.980 caliber, an automatic movement with a three-day power reserve. Note the presence of a traversing balance bridge, designed to improve the rigidity of the regulating group, and, consequently, performance. This 12 1/2-line heart, vibrating at 4 Hz (28,800 alt./h.), subjected to precision tests in six positions, is equipped with a stop-seconds. With its new finishes, it is visible through the open sapphire crystal caseback.
For the first time, the line is offered with enhanced water resistance to approximately 500 meters. This significant improvement is a continuation of Panerai’s heritage. Each watch has been subjected to a pressure 25% higher than the guaranteed water resistance value, to ensure it meets the brand’s rigorous requirements. With this, the Luminor Marina reaffirms its position as a robust tool watch, suitable for both professional and amateur divers.
All these models, whether in 316LVM steel or grade 5 titanium, receive new profiled horns, as well as, for the first time, the system allowing the bracelets and buckles to be changed without tools, called PAM Click™.
PAM03312 – €8,900
PAM03313 – €8,900
PAM03314 – €8,900
PAM03323 – €9,900
PAM03325 – €9,900
THE WATCH WORN BY MIKE HORN
Submersible Chrono Flyback Mike Horn Edition
20 500 euros
Technical Details:
Movement
P.9100, entirely made by Panerai, 13¾ lignes, 8.15mm thick, 37 jewels, Glucydur™ balance, 28,800 vibrations/hour. Incabloc™ anti-shock device. Two barrels. 302 components.
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, flyback chronograph, immersion time measurement
Three-day power reserve.
Case
47mm diameter. Satin-finished titanium case.
Satin-finished titanium bezel. Unidirectional counterclockwise rotating bezel with black ceramic graduated scale. Satin-finished titanium crown-protecting bridge.
Screw-down and engraved titanium case back.
Sapphire crystal made from corundum.
Dial
Blue with luminescent hour markers. Chronograph hour counter at 3 o’clock, small seconds at 9 o’clock, central chronograph seconds and minutes hands.
Strap
Blue rubber
Satin-finished titanium trapezoid buckle.
Water resistance: 30 bar (~300 meters)
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