Beautiful white watches for the summer
Summertime: it is the perfect moment for white timepieces to come into their own. They adorn sunny days, linen shirts, seaside pub terraces, and balmy evenings that just keep going. But beneath that bright look, there is a lot more going on than just a fashion statement. High-tech ceramic, aluminium, rubber or forged quartz fibre: white has become a proper playground for top watchmakers. That is the golden thread running through this show. Frank Sans C, journalist Marine Ulrich, and I will look at five models proving that a single colour can tell completely different stories. Because in watchmaking, white is rarely... just white.
White, a starting point
First of all: these white timepieces owe just as much to their colour as to their material. At Chanel, high-resistance white ceramic has become a true hallmark for over twenty years. Scratch-resistant, comfortable to wear and lovely to the touch: it naturally adapts to body temperature. This timepiece played a major role in making the J12 one of the great watchmaking icons of the 21st century. Let us take a look back at how this timepiece came to be.
Conceived in 2000 by Jacques Helleu, who was back then the Artistic Director of Watchmaking at Chanel, it first bursts onto the scene dressed in striking black ceramic. It was not until 2003 that the white ceramic version of the J12 made its debut. Then, in 2019, on the cusp of its 20th anniversary, the timepiece was subtly reimagined by Arnaud Chastaingt.
Guided by the motto “Change everything without changing a thing”, he opened up the dial a bit more and trimmed down the bezel. He tweaked the click sound it makes during the spin: it bumps up from 30 to 40 clicks. Eventually, he reimagined the numerals, markers, minute track and bracelet and it now features a brand-new movement.
Meanwhile, Audemars Piguet features a Royal Oak crafted entirely from white ceramic: a particularly demanding material to work with. Indeed, it presents challenges not only in machining but also in achieving the flawless interplay of satin-brushed and polished finishes. The result is striking, above all, thanks to the rose gold accents that bring warmth to the pristine monochrome aesthetic, just like the hands sweeping over the silver-toned dial, adorned with a tapisserie motif. This model also stands out for its matching ceramic bracelet. It features invisible pins integrated into the studs to connect the links.
At Bvlgari, white is born from the marriage between sandblasted aluminium and rubber — a combination the Italian brand has been exploring since the late 1990s through its Bvlgari Bvlgari Aluminium lineup, and one that continues to blur the lines between sports watches and luxury timepieces. Measuring 40mm across, the watch features a brushed titanium and aluminium case, topped off with a white rubber bezel. Water-resistant to 100 metres, the case houses a lacquered opaline dial. It contrasts with luminescent rhodium-plated brass hands and hour markers, alongside a subtle date window at the 3 o’clock position.
When it comes to H. Moser & Cie., the brand takes things a step further with a case machined from forged quartz fibre — a material whiter than fibreglass, UV-resistant, and crafted through a complex process. The quartz fibres are cut into segments, placed into a mould, compressed, and then mixed with injected resin before going through two successive bakings. The outcome? A unique moiré pattern.
When engineering hides behind colour
Beneath these glowing shapes lie some impressive mechanics. The 38mm J12 timepiece features the Calibre 12.1, developed in-house with Kenissi. It is chronometer-certified by the COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Authority). It boasts roughly a 70-hour power reserve. The second model, the 28mm J12, ticks away to the rhythm of a high-precision quartz movement.
The Royal Oak Selfwinding 34mm also reveals, through its sapphire crystal case back. It is a self-winding movement adorned with Côtes de Genève, circular graining, satin-brushed and sunburst finishes. It highlights an openworked 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight.
The Bvlgari Bvlgari Aluminium remains true to its distinctive sporty yet elegant character. It features a self-winding mechanical movement. Its regulating organ beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and delivers roughly a 42-hour power reserve.
Then comes H. Moser & Cie., which reminds us that watchmaking is still capable of catching us off guard. On the Streamliner Pump, an orange push-button replaced the traditional winding crown, inspired by the legendary Reebok Pump.
One press. That is all it takes to send power straight to the barrel mainspring. It kicks the power reserve indicator — also sitting at 8 o’clock — into action as it goes. A single press brings you over an hour of power reserve. Probably the only timepiece that actually makes you want to press a button… Just for fun.
White breaks the mould
For years, white watches have long been perceived as too summery, and, at times, almost exclusively feminine. This selection proves otherwise. The J12 remains one of the first genuinely unisex timepieces. The Royal Oak retains all of its sporting character despite its restrained 34mm case. The Bvlgari Aluminium embodies a laid-back luxury that works just as well with a polo shirt as it does with a linen suit. As for the Streamliner Pump, it embraces a sense of humour rarely found in fine watchmaking, turning the iconic 1990s basketball gesture made famous by Boston Celtics player Dee Brown into a playful complication.
Ultimately, these five watches demonstrate that colour alone never defines a timepiece. Beneath a pristine dial or a bright white strap lie very different visions of watchmaking: couture the Chanel way, architecture the Audemars Piguet way, the Italian lifestyle the Bvlgari way, and mechanical cheek the H. Moser & Cie way.
Proof, if any were needed, that white is anything but a blank canvas. Conversely, today, it offers watchmakers one of the most compelling ways to express their identity. Just a matter of style — and of character.
Chanel J12 Calibre 12.1 38MM Watch – €9,750
Chanel J12 28MM Watch – €5,100
Bvlgari Bvlgari Aluminium – €3,700
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding – €56,200
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Pump White – Limited run at 250 pieces – €39,600
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