Bvlgari x Vianney Halter: the unexpected and brilliant collaboration
For this second chapter of Geneva Watch Days, the watchmaker continues its exploration of the Octo Finissimo, blending mechanical prowess with aesthetic experimentation. Two creations, two distinct approaches: the first pits ultra thin watchmaking expertise against the retro futuristic world of independent watchmaker Vianney Halter, while the "Dazzle" model blurs the lines of the Manufacture’s iconic timepiece through a fascinating graphic and optical illusion. In Frank Sans C’s show, design master Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani Bvlgari’s Executive Director of Product Creation explains the genesis of the design.
GENEVA WATCH DAYS – DAY 2
Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter : two signatures, one mechanism
For the first time in the history of the Octo Finissimo, Bvlgari has entrusted the creation of the movement to an independent watchmaker. In collaborating with Vianney Halter, the Italian Maison pits its geometric architecture and obsession with ultra-thin profiles against the retro-futuristic world of a creator whose watches look as though they came straight out of a Jules Verne laboratory. Naturally, this Octo Finissimo retains its signature proportions and slimness, while Vianney Halter leaves his mark through a three-dimensional construction and multiple displays.
The watch is striking at first glance for its dial. Two independent, rhodium-plated opaline sub-dials of different sizes display the primary time and a second time zone, accompanied by two smaller indicators for the date and day/night. The blue hands echo the watchmaker’s signature shapes, while the seconds hand—tipped with a red arrow—adds a more graphic touch. On the back, the platinum micro-rotor bears an engraved signature. Two versions are available: one in sandblasted titanium, limited to 30 pieces, and the other in rose gold, with a production run of just 15.
Behind these two creations lies a completely re-engineered mechanism. The new in-house BVF 200 caliber, developed based on Bvlgari’s ultra-thin platform, incorporates GMT, date, and day/night indication functions. Featuring automatic winding via a micro-rotor, it measures just 5.49 mm in thickness and offers a power reserve of approximately 60 hours—powering a 40.5 mm watch that is only 9.70 mm thick. Undoubtedly a feat of watchmaking.
The case itself comprises over 50 components and required meticulous development—particularly to ensure the perfect flatness of the machined parts and to integrate the crown guards while maintaining water resistance and purity of line. Crafted entirely in the workshops of Saignelégier and Le Sentier, these components above all exemplify the results of two visions coming together: Bvlgari’s mechanical engineering and Vianney Halter’s instantly recognizable aesthetic.
View the technical specifications for the Octo Finissimo x Vianney Halter in sandblasted rose gold. – €120,000
View the technical specifications for the Octo Finissimo x Vianney Halter in sandblasted titanium. – €75,000
Octo Finissimo Dazzle
With the Octo Finissimo Dazzle, Bvlgari tackles one of the most recognizable features of its ultra-thin watch: its silhouette. Rather than highlighting its angles and octagonal construction, the Manufacture chooses to make them vanish within a geometric pattern that covers the case, dial, and integrated bracelet. It is a way of playing with perception and transforming a feat of watchmaking architecture into a genuine exercise in optical illusion.
The inspiration comes from “Dazzle” camouflage, notably used in the automotive industry during prototype testing. Its fragmented geometric patterns serve to obscure outlines and prevent the eye from immediately perceiving a vehicle’s true volume. Bvlgari applies this principle to the Octo Finissimo: on its 40mm case, lines fragment, surfaces appear to merge, and the boundary between the watch and its bracelet becomes less distinct. The dial itself adopts the same treatment, with black hands and indices emerging from this graphic pattern. Only the bezel remains free of the motif, preserving the geometry that makes the Octo instantly recognizable.
To achieve this effect, Bvlgari did not simply apply a decorative finish to the titanium surface. Instead, the brand employs laser engraving—a technique mastered in-house—capable of reproducing the network of geometric shapes across every surface of the watch with extreme precision. The challenge lies precisely in this continuity: the pattern must flow seamlessly from the case to the bracelet, respecting the Octo’s volumes and varied planes to create the impression of a unified graphic composition. The engraving thus becomes an integral part of the material itself, playing with light to constantly shift the perception of the watch.
Limited to 80 pieces, the Octo Finissimo Dazzle is powered by a manufacture caliber—an automatic micro-rotor movement just 2.23 mm thick, featuring small seconds and a power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Its bridges are hand-decorated with vertical Côtes de Genève, chamfering, and circular graining. The sandblasted titanium case measures only 5.15 mm in thickness, including the transparent case back.
View the technical specifications for the Octo Finissimo Dazzle. – €19,500
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