Breguet Classique Souscription 2025, the art of returning to the essentials
To mark the 250th anniversary of the opening of Abraham-Louis Breguet's workshop on the Île de la Cité, the eponymous Maison has chosen to unveil the Classique Souscription 2025 wristwatch in Paris, the place where Breguet created most of his finest timepieces. Focus.
A bit of watchmaking history…
Few figures have made as much of an impression as Abraham-Louis Breguet. This visionary watchmaker, born in 1747 in the Canton of Neuchâtel—then under Prussian rule—was part of a pivotal era for the profession, of which he would become one of the most eminent representatives. Who would have bet a penny on the future of this young man, sent to Verrières, France, to train as a watchmaker in 1762? No one! And yet, barely a year after his arrival, young Abraham-Louis was at Versailles.
With a natural talent, he attracted attention. Trained in mathematics and astronomy by Abbé Joseph François Marie—a man to whom he owed a great deal—he successively became the apprentice watchmaker of his compatriot Ferdinand Berthoud (1727-1807) and Jean-Antoine Lépine (1720-1814). From both, he drew from the experience that made him one of the watchmaking geniuses of his century. From the former, he learned that modesty and calm were better than too painful controversies; from the latter, he maintained a solid collaboration in the study of avant-garde technical solutions such as the single plate and separate mobile bridges. Matured by the inventions of his time, the man then sharpened his weapons to offer the wealthy amateurs of the time his own conception of the art of watchmaking. His establishment, located on the Quai de l’Horloge in Paris, coincided with his marriage in 1775. At this address, as well as on the present-day Place Dauphine, he rubbed shoulders with other celebrities. However, at the time of the Revolution, the man—associated with Xavier Gide from 1787, close to Marat, as a Montagnard, and having spent several months in England with his friend John Arnold—felt in danger in 1793.
He chose to leave Paris to take refuge with his son in Switzerland, in Neuchâtel and then in Le Locle, even though he could have been welcomed in London. Upon his return to Paris in 1795, he had to take over the reins of his company alone, without his partner, and embarked on the implementation of numerous projects, notably that of the so-called Souscription watches.
A historic anniversary
To mark the 250th anniversary of the opening of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s workshop on the Île de la Cité, the eponymous Maison has chosen to unveil the Classique Souscription 2025 wristwatch in Paris, the place where Breguet created most of his finest timepieces. This instrument, inspired by a reference launched upon his return from exile, was in its time a concentration of both technical and commercial innovations, as it is to date the first watch to have been advertised for its commercial release. While there were “Souscription” models listed in the sales register from 1796, it was primarily from 1797 that these 61 mm diameter references were sold, and this continued for nearly 30 years (approximately 700 pieces sold).
With the Classique Souscription 2025, Breguet introduces its own gold alloy: Breguet gold, a precious metal with a blond color that combines gold, silver, copper and palladium.
A fusion of the art of the Parisian master (at that time Abraham-Louis Breguet was of French nationality, which he requested and obtained) and contemporary know-how, the new Classique Souscription 2025 wristwatch incorporates many details of the original to celebrate its ability to remain timelessly beautiful.
The new 40 mm diameter and 10.8 mm thick reference is crafted from 18-carat “Breguet” gold, a precious alloy combining gold, silver, copper and palladium to give it an exclusive blond tone. It should also be noted that the case no longer has its usual fluting on the side of the caseband, but a light satin finish to maintain the spirit of sobriety that has made the reputation of Souscription watches. In the same spirit, the lugs have been curved, the lugs curved and bent to best follow the curve of the wrist.
The dial, like the original models, is made of white grand feu enamel with numbers and a railway in petit feu enamel on a gold base. It is magnified by the presence of a single, powerful traditional blued steel open-tipped Breguet hand, because the master used them so much.
However, at the time, he did not have exclusive rights to this design for his hands, which were made by a specialized craftsman, located on the current Place Dauphine on the Île de la Cité in Paris. Here, made of steel, it is flame-blued in an artisanal way, as was done in the past and which some restorers still practice using alcohol lamps.
This indicator, delicately curved to follow the profile of the dial and sliding under the glass with a chevé profile, is driven by a magnificent and sober 16-line manual-winding mechanical movement treated in 18-carat Breguet gold, signed and numbered.
Visible through the transparent caseback, it bears the reference VS00, has a 96-hour power reserve (a single barrel) and is made up of 144 components, 21 jewels and 12 fire-blue screws. In addition, the regulating group oscillates at 3 Hz, or 21,600 vibrations per hour, and the Breguet terminal curve hairspring is made of Nivachron™.
The set, delivered in a special 250th anniversary case in red morocco-style leather, is worn on a navy blue large-scale alligator leather strap, lined with tone-on-tone alligator leather. The whole thing fastens on the wrist with a classic pin buckle made of 18-carat Breguet gold.
€52 800
Consult the technical specifications of the Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 watch.
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