Royal Oak: 50 years of existence and still as fashionable as ever
An instantly recognisable status symbol, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak celebrates 50 years of service this year. For the occasion, it seemed important to review its eventful history before looking at the new collection, restyled to bring into the modern age these models that became both status symbols, and recently, true financial investments.
In official circles and among collectors, it is said that the Royal Oak is an inspired reference, arrived at the right time and with the right design in watchmaking history. This watch was designed by Gérald Genta to increase the range of the small family watchmaking maison specialised in the manufacture of complication timepieces. Launched on April 15th 1972, it was originally aimed to the flourishing circle of the golden youth that had just finished their studies after protesting for their wish to see the world change on the barricades of May 1968.
Contrary to what we can often read, the Swiss watchmaking market has remained flourishing in the early seventies and until around 1975-1976. During the first months of this new “flower power” decade, three distributors of the Audemars Piguet manufacture indicated that collectors lacked a steel reference of the brand, a material very clearly in the spirit of the times. Georges Golay, then Managing Director of the brand, analysed this demand and asked young designer Gérald Genta to offer a design for a chic, modern and thin steel sports watch.
The artist, wanting to give his creation a place in the trends of that time and in the creative logic of the brand, known for offering unique timepieces, created this model, code name 5402, by using geometrical shapes and strong lines. He designed this brand-new piece, which would become the Royal Oak, in gouache paint overnight, and made history. At that time, most new products in the watchmaking world did not have this modernity, this inspired and minimalist design.
Beginnings of an icon
The steel watch appeared in the brand’s catalogue in April 1972, after its presentation to the Basel World Watch Fair, and became straight away the world’s most expensive steel watch. It was designed to attract a young and wealthy public, who wanted to stand out with their timepieces – already a tool of social distinction in privileged circles. Its arrival on the scene was reportedly earth-shaking for the field. However, this is an exaggeration, especially as critics rather lambasted this elitist piece, considered too expensive for what it offered, and because it was only a sports watch by name – and bracelet.
In addition, the brand we know was rather used to deliver complicated watches in very small quantities back then, and struggled to release this piece. Legend has it that it was complex to produce, but the problem actually came from the supply, due to important outsourcing (Stern for the Petite Tapisserie guilloché dials, Favre & Perret for the case and Gay Frères for the built-in steel bracelet). It is said that in 1972, 490 pieces were sold, a record for Audemars Piguet whose volumes were until then among the smallest in the field. For 4 years, the brand made only the 5402 model to meet the demand’s expectations. However, the maison started production on a ladies’ piece in 1976: the 8638 model, designed by Jacqueline Dimier, a 29 mm diameter.
The next year, the brand launched two subtly restyled pieces, one in yellow gold and grey gold, and a yellow gold and steel version. A 35 mm intermediate product also came out, under the reference 4100, that immediately became a best seller, as men’s watches of intermediate size were in trend. During the entire period of the quartz crisis, the Royal Oak continued on its way.
The light industrial structure, the independency of the old groups and the close relationships between the brand and its subcontractors allowed the brand to move on from quartz easily. A bit like Patek Philippe and Rolex with their claims that mechanic models are a traditional hold in a hyper modern world, which allowed them to survive in a changing sector.
The Royal Oak, between eighties and nineties
Besides daring a few “baroque” variants, between 1978 and 1988 Audemars Piguet turned its eye towards the development of quartz pieces. In the end, 59 models of all sizes were made. Then, in the mid-1980s, the Royal Oak made its breakthrough in the complication watch market. In 1983, when the first Swatch was made, the manufacture launched the 36mm Royal Oak with a date function (ref. 5572). The following year, the brand offered a Royal Oak first in steel, then a gold and steel version with a perpetual calendar. A yellow gold version with an openworked calibre followed in 1986 (ref. 25636).
In 1992, the 39mm Royal Oak Jumbo, reference 14802, the first to feature a sapphire case back, enjoyed the success of the most modern watch of its generation. The first 36mm Royal Oak on leather strap appeared at the same time, created by designer Jörg Hysek (ref. 14800), alongside the famous Royal Oak Offshore. This robust 42mm model, designed by Emmanuel Gueit, shows the stylistic choices made a decade later.
Alongside these products, Audemars Piguet developed a range dedicated to women. Besides openworked pieces, high jewellery pieces started to emerge from 1998. And because the subject would be incomplete without mentioning it, the manufacture at Le Brassus launched a 20mm mini–Royal Oak powered by a quartz calibre in 1997. This period also saw the emergence of the complication Royal Oak.
In 1997, the Royal Oak Tourbillon was presented in an edition of 25 steel pieces for the 25 years of the collection, along with a series of 5 watches of 40 mm diameter in yellow gold, rose gold and platinum. This release was associated with the introduction of the family’s first chronograph (ref. 25860) in 39 mm and of the first Grande Complication Royal Oak. With its 44 mm diameter, this grey gold piece featured a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar, and a double chronograph. In 28 years of service, the Royal Oak had 300 variations, including 200 during the 1990s.
The revolution of the third millennium
Entering a new era justified the launch of a new generation of Royal Oak. This 39mm piece arrived under the reference 15202. Once again, it has a sapphire case back and boasts a new Grande Tapisserie dial, launched the previous year. At that time, the watch competed on equal ground with new generation products. This did not prevent the manufacture from exploring new territories. In 2002, the manufacture revealed jointly the first Royal Oak Concept and the Royal Oak Tradition d’Excellence, part of a collection of complication timepieces all limited to 20 models and designed to be part of an inlaid cabinet in which all the watchmaking complications are gathered.
At the same time, the Royal Oak appeared through limited editions, produced in collaboration with renowned celebrities and athletes. The first was designed in 1990 by champion golfer Nick Faldo. Then came the Royal Oak City of Sails, created to celebrate a partnership with Alinghi (1999): a profitable association that allowed the Royal Oak to evolve from a luxury item to a statement of identity, a symbol of success. Then came in 2008: the Royal Oak Sachin Tendukar, and the Oak Leaves series designed in collaboration with Michelle Yeoh. In 2012, to celebrate 40 years of the Royal Oak, “Jumbo”, reference 15202 was released, along with an openworked version, powered by the new 5122 calibre.
Next came a Royal Oak Tourbillon Extra-Thin (ref. 26510) with manual winding (in steel and rose gold). Sustained by a refined aesthetic, the maison launched in 2016 the majestic Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked. Originally designed in 41 mm, it was then offered with a 37mm variant and in a great range of materials, including black ceramic. This period also saw the launch of the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin (26586).
Celebrating half a century of perfection
Owing more than 80% of its turnover (1.5 billion Swiss Francs) to the Royal Oak collection, the manufacture of Le Brassus has every reason to pay tribute to these watches. And it is what it does, for the collection’s 50th anniversary, that takes place this year.
It is expected that all the new Royal Oak models, that we have known for many years to be difficult to find, are likely to be even more in demand with the celebration of this half century of existence. François-Henry Bennahmias, the CEO of the company, in the Frank Sans C programme dedicated to Audemars Piguet, explains the reasons for this rarity that is exclusively linked to very high demand. Despite all the efforts on the part of the company and the teams hard at work in the ateliers, these new anniversary references are already very likely to be collector’s items, and so, difficult to get your hands on. Admittedly, the 2022 pieces have an electrifying quality.
Royal Oak Jumbo 39 mm
€ 34,400
This new generation of the 39mm Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin piece (ref. 16202) is here in stainless steel and water-resistant to 50 m. It is astonishingly thin, only 8.1 mm. It features here a night blue “Cloud 50” dial with Petite Tapisserie pattern and a date aperture at 3 o’clock, applied hour markers and Royal Oak hands in grey gold and luminescent deposit.
It features the 7121 self-winding mechanical calibre in 29.6mm. Including 268 components, it has a 55-hour power reserve and vibrates at 4 Hertz. Like all the pieces of the 50th anniversary, the oscillating weight is specific and matches the colour of the piece’s metal. The instrument is offered on a metal bracelet fastened by an unfolding clasp.
Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin 39 mm rose gold
€ 73,100
This reference, already available in steel as was the original, is also offered in 18-carat rose gold. This case is also water-resistant to 50 m and is also 8.1mm thick. It features a smoked grey dial with Petite Tapisserie pattern and a date aperture at 3 o’clock, applied hour markers and Royal Oak hands in rose gold and luminescent coating. The calibre is the same as on the steel version.
This watch also contains the self-winding automatic 7121 calibre in 29.6 mm. Including 268 components, it has a 55-hour power reserve and vibrates at 4 Hertz. Like all the anniversary versions, the oscillating weight is engraved with the 50th anniversary inscription and is here made of rose gold. The piece is worn on an 18-carat rose gold bracelet and is fastened at the wrist with an AP unfolding clasp.
Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin 39 mm in yellow gold
€ 73,100
The 16202 model is also offered in 18-carat yellow gold. As with the others, the case is water-resistant up to 50m and 8.1 mm thick. The piece features a smoked yellow golden dial with Petite Tapisserie pattern and a date aperture at 3 o’clock, applied hour markers and Royal Oak hands in yellow gold and luminescent coating. The calibre is the same as on the steel version.
This watch also contains the self-winding automatic 7121 calibre in 29.6 mm. Including 268 components, it has a 55-hour power reserve and vibrates at 4 Hertz. Like all the anniversary versions, the oscillating weight is engraved with the 50th anniversary inscription and is here made of yellow gold. The piece is worn on an 18-carat yellow gold bracelet and is fastened at the wrist with an AP unfolding clasp.
Royal Oak Jumbo 39 mm Extra-Thin 39 Platinum
€ 118,300
This new 39mm Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin (ref. 16202) is also available in platinum. Water-resistant up to 50m like the other pieces of the same reference For this model, Audemars Piguet kept a green dial with Petite Tapisserie pattern and date aperture at 3 o’clock, applied hour markers and Royal Oak hands in grey gold and luminescent coating.
The piece also features the 7121 self-winding mechanical calibre in 29.6mm. Including 268 components, it has a 55-hour power reserve and vibrates at 4 Hertz. Like all the pieces of the 50th anniversary, the oscillating weight is specific and matches the colour of the piece’s metal. The instrument is offered on a platinum bracelet fastened by an unfolding clasp.
Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked
Price on request to the manufacture
To celebrate fifty years of the Royal Oak, the manufacture at Le Brassus offers a brand-new 41 mm diameter Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked in stainless steel. Water-resistant up to 50 m, it features the calibre ref. 2972.
It is a self-winding mechanical movement entirely and traditionally openworked (CNC and EDM). The technique has been pushed to the limit to give this model incredible depth. It is 31.5 mm in diameter and only 6.8 mm thick.
It includes 271 components and is regulated by a flying tourbillon, with a balance wheel that vibrates at 3 Hertz, or 21,600 alternances per hour. Once completely wound up, this powerhouse ensures a 65-hour power reserve. Like all the products dedicated to celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak range, the oscillating weight of the piece was engraved with the number 50 and matches the metal of the case for aesthetic cohesion. As the piece is openworked, the dial features only hours and minutes on a slate-grey case back and grey gold hour markers.
Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 41 mm Grande Tapisserie
Price on request to the manufacture
In stainless steel, titanium and rose gold variants, these three new models whose design evolved for this jubilee year, replace the first three revealed in 2020. To mark the 50thanniversary of the collection in design terms, the cases and bracelets of these three new references were equipped with larger bevels, thus enhancing the play of light between the satin-finished and polished surfaces adorning the different components.
In a constant effort to improve ergonomics, and highlighting the thinness of the watch, the first links of the built-in bracelet feature a decreasing thickness that makes it both light and comfortable to wear. The sapphire case back has been slightly covered in the case middle for a better fit. These three new tourbillons also feature the Audemars Piguet signature logo plated in 24-carats gold. The plating is made of thin gold layers obtained by increasing the output voltage of a galvanic cell and applied by hand on the dial with to tiny tools. The stainless steel and 18-carat rose gold versions are equipped with a blue Grande Tapisserie dial in a smoked black gradient.
This titanium model features an elegant blue dial that offers an alternative to the traditional Tapisserie pattern, become the hallmark of the Royal Oak. The three pieces are equipped with the 2950 calibre, the latest generation movement of the manufacture, combining a self-winding flying tourbillon with a 31.5 mm central rotor. It has 270 components and a 65-hour power reserve. Equipped with a flying tourbillon, its balance wheel vibrates at 3 Hertz, 21,600 alternances per hour. Combining technical specifications and aesthetic refinement, these pieces reflect the savoir-faire that the brand has cultivated for generations.
Royal Oak SELFWINDING FLYING TOURBILLON EXTRA-THIN (RD#3) « 50th ANNIVERSARY » – Price on request to the manufacture
This 39 mm, 8.1mm thick anniversary piece in stainless steel is the first Jumbo piece with a tourbillon in history. At the heart of this innovation is the 2968 calibre, an ultra-thin, self-winding flying tourbillon that required five years in development.
The Audemars Piguet engineers and watchmakers took on many challenges in order to integrate this complication, until then reserved to the 41mm, in the smaller volume of a Jumbo. To make the tourbillon and the movement components more visible, they have redesigned the structure of the mechanism. Bringing aesthetic details to a fever pitch, the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin features a new escapement while revealing as much as possible of the movement’s inner workings. The geometry and the positioning of the arms of the balance wheel have also been restyled so that the heartbeat of the watch is even more present.
The technical design of the movement brings the flying tourbillon right up to the dial, for an even stronger visual experience. The new RD#3 remains faithful to the aesthetic codes of the iconic Jumbo pieces. The case and the stainless steel bracelet feature the satined and polished hand finishes of the collection, while the Petite Tapisserie Cloud 50 Night Blue dial pays tribute to the original Royal Oak. The colour is obtained by PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) treatment, ensuring a homogenous and durable colour to all the dials. Just like the piece from 1972, this new Jumbo reference features hour markers and bathtub-shaped hands with luminescent coating for better legibility in the dark. The Audemars Piguet signature, just like the minutes scale, is printed in white on the tapisserie.
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