This year at Panerai, subjects are in the spotlight. Vintage, performing or avant-garde, they are preparing to take by storm the collections of the Italian house, which created a real surprise at the last SIHH.
At the Geneva International Fine Watchmaking Exhibition, Panerai first attracted attention with new Luminor Submersibles, waterproof up to 300 meters and animated by the P.9010 automatic movement (3 days power reserve ). All comply with ISO 6425, which governs the official designation “dive watch”. All mix new box dimensions – 42 mm in diameter, fine wrists applaud! – and materials of character such as titanium, soft iron, ceramics, red gold, but also the bronze, which makes its great return, or BMG-Tech, a material as mysterious as unpublished. Another highlight of the new year 2017, Panerai unveiled the fruit of a major R & D work with a Luminor 1950 “LAB-ID”. You are told more…
If steel makes up the vast majority of Panerai boxes, and if the red gold brings to certain models a decidedly elegant touch, it will now be necessary to get used to other materials. Some of them are already well known to the fans of the Italian house. This is the case of titanium and bronze, which are essential this year in the collection Luminor Submersible 1950.
Luminor Submersible 1950: a bench of innovations
The Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Titanio – 47mm (8 900 €) transcends the spirit Panerai. It imposes by its diameter while remaining light thanks to titanium. The professional diver will appreciate the presence of two Superluminova colors for an optimal reading of the immersion time: blue for the bezel of the bezel and the minute hand, green for the other elements of the dial. Also noteworthy is the presence of a beautiful limited edition version, with ceramic bezel, whose internal soft iron case protects the movement of magnetic fields like a Faraday cage.
In a pure vintage spirit, a new edition in bronze (BRONZO) has very attractive chromatic attires: the warm color of the case, which will skate over time, the deep blue of the dial and the brown shade of the brown leather strap with stitching Clear, maritime inspiration. This special edition, limited to 1,000 copies (€ 14,000), is a real call to take off for a “walk on the salt sea”: if Corto Maltese wore a watch, it would certainly be this one!
Another novelty of the most attractive, the Luminor Submersible 1950 BMG-TECH 3 Days Automatic – 47 mm (9,900 €) plays on the avant-garde of a new material. BMG: three letters to remember. Behind this acronym is a new metallic glass material, the Bulk Metallic Glass. Obtained from a glass alloy, the BMG consists of zirconium, copper, aluminum, titanium and nickel. Result? The box is stronger than steel, but also lighter and more resistant to corrosion. Its color is between titanium and steel. Panerai had the good idea to associate it with a beautiful polished blue dial.
Luminor LAB-ID: the huge surprise
In addition to its many Luminor Submersible 1950s, Officine Panerai also presented another very special Luminor 1950, which was truly unanimous and created the buzz at the show.
Guarantee a watch 50 years, never seen! This is what Panerai proposes with its watch Luminor 1950 LAB-ID, produced with 50 copies (50 000 €). To achieve this unusual longevity, without having to undergo regular revision, the caliber of the watch is mainly constructed with parts made of a carbon-based composite, thus dispensing the use of rubies (there are some here Only 4!) And the use of lubricating parts. This movement is housed in an impressive 49 mm diameter box, machined in Carbotech (carbon fiber). The case’s striae, the deep black of the carbon-nanotube dial, which absorbs light, oversized figures and indexes covered with intense Superluminova, give the LAB-ID a futuristic style. The future of Panerai watches? It would seem good, because the brand has announced that this piece is brought to become a new standard.
The chic Italian sport spirit, Panerai style
Panerai is the chic Italian sport. The Radiomir and Luminor can be worn both under a jacket in the city and on a thick combination of 7 mm diving. Then when Panerai proposes a Luminor Sumersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Acciaio (satin steel) and Oro Rosso in 42 mm in diameter, one applauds. These versions appeal to both men and women, in search of a beautiful instrument. We will not hesitate to take the watch out of its environment of predilection to associate it with a leather jacket and straddle his motorcycle for road trips along the Almafitaine coast.
Panerai produces only small series. The new watches always fit into this commercial scheme. The use of new materials allows the Italian watchmaker, whose workshops are located in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, to leave its comfort zone by offering future owners stylish even more exclusive timepieces.