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When Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Piaget or Rolex go fifty shades of green

A wave of green watches is taking over the greatest manufactures. After the "blue is the new black" trend, green is becoming the new blue. For now, there is no way to tell if this trend will be ephemeral or if it will last. In the meantime, Frank Sans C reviewed some of these watches – and good one at that.

By Nicolas Yvon

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Designed by the late Gérald Genta – a true genius – the Royal Oak left its mark on the history of watchmaking when it was released in 1972 by becoming the first steel luxury sports watch.
The Royal Oak – named after a Royal Navy ship – is recognizable because of its octagonal bezel and visible screws, reminiscent of portholes. Other distinctive features of this watch are the dial – usually – adorned with a very graphic square pattern and the bracelet which is entirely integrated to the case.

Un cadran vert satiné soleil pour la montre Audemars Piguet habille la Royal Oak de platine
Audemars Piguet also issued a luxurious emblematic platinum version of the Royal Oak featuring a dark green sunburst dial.

The Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin version currently available is very similar to the original watch. It features the same 39 mm diameter. However, its dial is different from the other Royal Oak models because of the AP logo isolated at 6 o’clock, instead of being at the 12 o’clock position.

Though there are different versions of the Royal Oak “Jumbo”, purists of the brand only go for the steel version with the blue dial, like the original model.

Video displaying the Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin from every angle.

A luxurious platinum green edition for the Royal Oak

This is the model the house chose to release: a sublime, luxurious model in platinum 950 featuring a smoked, sunburst, green dial. Out with the blue and the emblematic grid patterns!
And let’s be honest, this version of the iconic watch is also very eye-catching.

La Royal Oak se reconnaît à sa lunette octogonale munie de vis apparentes
The signature features of the Royal Oak are included in this platinum version: octagonal shape, visible screws and integrated bracelet.

Now all you need is to be able to afford it! Indeed, according to our sources, this piece is worth about 90,150 Swiss francs excluding taxes. And it cannot be purchased just anywhere, as it can only be booked in the privacy of a private lounge (AP House) of a few stores in the entire world.

La Royal Oak d'Audemars Piguet possède un fond transparent en verre saphir
The platinum calibre of this Royal Oak is visible through the case back and is equipped with a gold openwork rotor.

Our platinum and green dial Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin technical data sheet

Concerning the mechanics, the excellence of the House located in Le Brassus evidently never disappoints: the crystal case back displays an outstanding movement featuring a 22-carat gold oscillating weight.

Price: €90,000


Patek Philippe Nautilus

Another watch created by the brilliant Gérald Genta in 1976 is the Nautilus – Patek Philippe’s absolute icon. Its name is evidently a tribute to the underwater ship from Jules Verne’s Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Seas.
Once again, the designer was inspired by the nautical world to conceive this instrument. The watch – which showcases from a specific construction – includes a case with an octagonal bezel featuring softened angles.

Une belle montre verte chez Patek Philippe avec la Nautilus qui écrit sa légende depuis 1976
The Nautilus – the ultimate chic sports watch – has been Patek Philippe’s emblematic model since 1976.

The Nautilus is water-resitant up to 120 metres and features two lateral protrusion, which are both technical and aesthetic signature features. The watch draws inspiration from liners’ water-resistant portholes with hinges that keep the bezel fixated to the case. 
Extremely sought after by collectors, the original steel blue dial pieces are a real success during auctions though few new models leave the workshops.

The Nautilus is dead, long live the Nautilus!

It really came as a surprise when the Genevan manufacture announced in April 2020 they would stop the production. And it was even more a surprise when the house revealed the new version and its olive-green dial!

Hormis la couleur du cadran, la nouvelle Nautilus est identique à l'ancienne version
No need to play spot the difference between the former blue dial and the actual green dial version: there are close to none and they are very hard to notice.

The Nautilus 5711/1A-014 with a green dial: already a very coveted and hard to find piece

Some believe the piece to be a blasphemy while other view it as a clever marketing move. The manufacture made this choice because it believes that a reputation and an aura as prestigious as Patek Phillippe’s could not depend on a single watch any longer. Just a little reminder that the watch in question “only” includes three hands and a date.

La Nautilus de Patek Philippe posed un boîtier étanche à 120 mètres
The Nautilus is water-resistant up to 120 metres thanks to the specific construction of its case.

Admittedly. Still, the green version is already setting of an important demand and aficionados have to register on a waiting list in hope of possessing one… Just as it was the case with the blue version.

Our Nautilus 5711/1A-014 steel olive-green dial technical data sheet

La Patek Nautilus dévoile au dos son mouvement automatique de der mère génération.
A new automatic calibre featuring a gold oscillating weight is integrated to the back case of the Patek Philippe Nautilus.

On the verso side, this new 5711/1A-014 model provides an admirable view of the refined calibre and its meticulous finishes, such as the 21-carat gold oscillating weight which adorns Geneva stripes.

Price: €30,400


TAG Heuer Monaco

Designed in 1969, the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph became so successful and an icon mainly thanks to the actor Steve McQueen, who wore it in the movie Le Mans (1971). With its square shape, its crown placed on the left – on the opposite side of the push-pieces – and its blue dial with white subdials, the historic Monaco watch is still in collection with its vintage look and sports and motor-racing spirit.

TAG Heuer Monaco Heuer 02 calibre, a new colour for a last generation movement

The Heuer 02 movement – which guarantees an 80-hour power reserve – has been integrated to the square case of the Monaco for some time now in order to develop new references.

La nouvelle TAG Heuer Monaco Green Dial
The name of the TAG Heuer Monaco “Green Dial” is well fitted with its dazzling smoked sun-brushed green dial.

The position of the crown on the right, in-between the push-pieces, is a distinctive feature of this model. For instance, take a look at this dazzling steel edition of the “Green Dial”, with its sun-brushed dial, black subdial and black alligator strap.

Our Tag Heuer Monaco Green Dial technical data sheet

The small seconds at 6 o’clock also reveals the presence of the Heuer 02 calibre, visible through the case back of this instrument which is water-resistant up to 100 metres.

La TAG Heuer Monaco Green Dial est animée par le mouvement chronographe automatique Heuer 02
The chronograph Monaco Green Dial (€6,300) integrates the Heuer 02 movement and the crown and the push-pieces are placed on the same side.

However, it is important to keep in mind that this “Green Dial” special edition was designed to celebrate the Monaco Historic Grand Prix 2021 and that it will only be issued in 500 pieces.

Price: €6,300


Piaget Polo

The Polo watch was designed in 1979 and showcases aesthetic inspirations similar to the Royal Oak and the Nautilus. The watch is the incomparable chic sports model designed by Piaget. It elegantly brings together a round case and a cushion-shaped dial.

la Piaget Polo en acier alterne finitions polies et satinées
The chromatic combination is a success for this Piaget Polo watch which sports a green dial featuring rose gold-coloured elements.

While the Polo was originally entirely made of gold, it was reinvented in 2016 with a beautifully redrawn steel design adorned by very well done alternating polished and sun-brushed finishes.

Steel Piaget Polo: already a very rare green edition

Up until then, the dial had only been black, silver or blue. In 2020, the Polo added green to its range, with an 888-piece limited edition – and only very few pieces are still available today on the market. Not everyone will be able to get their hand on one!

Our green dial steel Piaget Polo technical date sheet

Cette version de la Polo en acier est une édition limée à 888 exemplaires.
The house will only issue 888 pieces of this green dial steel Piaget Polo.

The Polo watch is a dazzling piece from every angle. The case back features a sapphire crystal displaying its automatic calibre adorning Geneva stripes and its white gold oscillating weight sporting the house’s emblem.

Price: €13,200


Rolex and green watches

It must first be noted that green really is Rolex’s signature colour and that the house had green watches in its collection long before 2021.
The same model comes to the mind of every aficionado of the house with the crown emblem: the Submariner featuring a green bezel and/or dial. Connoisseurs even nicknamed the model “Kermit” in homage to the Muppet Show’s frog.

Chez Rolex, l'Oyster Perpetual en 36 mm diamètre s'habille d'un cadran laqué vert
Among the many versions of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual, this 36 mm combines Oystersteel and a lacquered green dial.

Frank Sans C’s video might not feature a frog, but it includes two other emblematic watches. An Oyster Perpetual and a Datejust, both in steel and with a 36 mm case. They fit the actual “genderless” trend and will convince men and women alike.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 lacquered green dial

The Oyster Perpetual – direct descendant of the first watches made by the house – represents the quintessence of Rolex’s aesthetics and is more often than not considered to be a starting point to discover the universe of watchmaking manufactures. The Oyster Perpetual is very refined and focuses on what is the most important with its dial featuring segment indices and three central hands.

Our steel lacquered green dial Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 technical data sheet

The watch already exists in different models, but since last year, Rolex has been issuing an elegant and “refreshing” version with a lacquered green dial, luminescent white gold hands and indices and a high power reserve.

Price: €5,250

Green dial and palm motif Rolex Datejust 36

Rolex Datejust 36 en acier Oystersteel et cadran vert palmiers
The Rolex Datejust 36 is both elegant and efficient. With its green dial, it is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification.

Designed in 1945, the Datejust is indisputably one of Rolex’s most famous models. According to the house’s official timeline, when it was issued, it was the first automatic and water-resistant chronometer wristwatch able to display the date in a window at 3 o’clock.

Fabrication des cadrans verts à décor palmiers dans les ateliers de la manufacture Rolex.
The palm motif of the Rolex Datejust 36 draws inspiration from tropical forests.

A few years later – in 1953 – the watch was equipped with its signature feature: the Cyclop lens which enables easy reading of the date by magnifying it by 2.5 times.

Our steel palm motif green dial Rolex Datejust 36 technical data sheet

This year, a few brand new watches were added to the collection and the redaction’s favourite is this very nice model – both classy and original – with its palm tree motif green dial. 

Rolex green watches: no need to choose between style and performances

These two automatic models – Oyster Perpetual and Datejust – are resistant to corrosion because they are made of Oystersteel (904L steel family) and are water-resistant up to 100 metres thanks to their Oyster case.

Original and elegant, the green palm motif dial of Rolex’s new Datejust 36 reflects the light with every movement.

Both instruments are evidently certified Superlative Chronometer. It consists of a double COSC certification (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute) and Rolex tests which guarantees exceptional performances.
For instance, it showcases a chronometric precision of only -2/+2 seconds every day – a true feat for a mechanical watch.

Price: €6,650