L.U.C 1860

The new L.U.C 1860 Chronometer

An important tribute to 30 years of “Chopard Manufacture” Fleurier

Chopard introduces a continuation model of the original, iconic L.U.C 1860 to honour the 30th anniversary of Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier. This new edition preserves the spirit of the original model while integrating the technical progress achieved over the past three decades.

Like its predecessor, this new timepiece features a 36.5 mm case, ideal proportions that will delight fine watch collectors. It is crafted in Lucent Steel™ and stands out with its “Areuse Blue” dial – a colour inspired by the Areuse River that flows near the Manufacture in the Val-de-Travers region. This river, known for its dramatic gorges and ever‑changing shades of deep blue, symbolises continuity and connection to nature. Its vivid colours, shaped by light, stone and movement, recall the cool, bright tone used on the dial.

The 18-carat white gold dial is hand‑guilloché with a sunburst pattern, using a vintage guilloché lathe operated by in-house artisans. Additional guilloché rings structure the dial, catching the light and adding depth. A satin‑brushed chapter ring, polished white gold chevron‑shaped hour markers, and Dauphine hands contribute to its overall clarity and harmony. The small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock completes the symmetrical design, which intentionally avoids a date display to preserve purity. The watch is paired with a grey grained calfskin strap.

This timepiece houses the L.U.C Calibre 96.40-L, a direct evolution of the first movement conceived and produced by Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier in 1996. At just 3.30 mm thin, this self‑winding movement incorporates a 22‑carat gold micro‑rotor that efficiently winds two stacked barrels, thanks to Chopard Twin technology, providing a 65-hour power reserve. The calibre is Chronometer‑certified (COSC) for precision and includes a stop‑seconds function and a swan’s neck regulator for fine adjustment.

Each component is meticulously finished by hand, with polished, bevelled and decorated surfaces in line with Poinçon de Genève standards. This prestigious hallmark guarantees exceptional craftsmanship for both the movement and the case. What’s more, achieving this in steel is particularly rare due to the demanding finishing requirements. Lucent Steel™ enhances the visual impact of these fine finishes.

“The L.U.C 1860 is the most emblematic watch in the L.U.C collection. It marks the beginning of our journey into the heart of fine watchmaking — a path that has sometimes been challenging yet full of discoveries. This timepiece has become a classic, just as I had imagined it 30 years ago” says Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele.

30 years of Chopard Manufacture Fleurier

Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier was founded in 1996 at the initiative of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele (Co-president of Chopard), with the aim of preserving traditional Swiss watchmaking know-how while integrating major innovations.  Thanks to this process of vertical integration, the workshops maintain a high level of finishing and contribute to the preservation of artistic crafts and skills.

L.U.C collection

The L.U.C collection pays tribute to Louis-Ulysse Chopard: by adopting the initials of the founder of Chopard’s first workshops in 1860, it is rooted in a heritage of tradition and innovation. Chopard Manufacture’s first calibre, the L.U.C 96.01-L, marked the debut of the collection in 1996. The following year, this ultra-thin automatic movement with a micro-rotor powered the first L.U.C timepiece: the L.U.C 1860 model, named ‘Watch of the Year’ by the Swiss magazine Montres Passion/Uhrenwelt.
Since that first calibre, all L.U.C movements have been designed, developed, and produced by Chopard Manufacture. The collection has expanded with innovative timepieces and today offers all the major complications in watchmaking. It upholds the values of certified watchmaking, combining high precision with the finest degree of hand finishing.
The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève acknowledged the excellence of the collection by awarding its most prestigious distinction, the Aiguille d’Or, to the L.U.C Full Strike minute repeater in 2017. As Chopard Manufacture Fleurier celebrates its 30th anniversary, the collection goes even further with the L.U.C Grand Strike – a grande sonnerie watch — that is its most complex timepiece ever produced.

Traditional hand-guilloché

Chopard Manufacture is among the few Maisons to equip its watches with hand‑guilloché dials since the first L.U.C 1860, a rarity explained by the extremely high level of manual skill this artistic craft requires as well as the very limited number of historic machines still in operation. At the Metalem workshops – a company that is part of the Chopard Group – artisans use traditional guilloché lathes, some of which are over 100 years old, to decorate dials with continuous symmetrical patterns. The movement of the lathe is controlled entirely by artisans with great dexterity and without any digital assistance, enabling a depth and regularity impossible to replicate by machine.

Chronometer certification

The Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) independently certifies the precision of movements. Uncased movements undergo 15 days of testing in five positions and at three temperature ranges. All L.U.C movements featuring a seconds indication are subjected to this protocol, ensuring a daily rate variation between –4 and +6 seconds per day.

Poinçon de Genève

The Poinçon de Genève is an independent certification applied to the movement and to the entire watch. Introduced in 1886, it is one of the oldest and most prestigious distinctions in Swiss watchmaking. It imposes strict criteria regarding reliability, craftsmanship, and provenance (assembly, adjustment, and casing must be carried out within the Canton of Geneva).

Lucent Steel™

Made with a recycling rate of 80%, Chopard Lucent Steel™ results from an advanced remelting process that produces a pure material, with brilliance comparable to gold and hypoallergenic properties similar to surgical steel. Its exceptional hardness makes it particularly resistant to abrasion.

First introduced in 2019 with the launch of the Alpine Eagle collection, Lucent Steel™ has been used to produce all Chopard steel timepieces since 2023 – cases and bracelets included.

Chopard Twin Technology

Developed by Chopard Manufacture, Chopard Twin Technology is a system using two stacked barrels, allowing for an extended power reserve (approximately 65 hours) while preserving the calibre’s thin profile. As the barrels work in parallel, they supply more consistent energy. Integrated into several L.U.C calibres, this architecture enhances the stability of energy delivered to the balance wheel, improving precision.