Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

TRADITIONNELLE PERPETUAL CALENDAR ULTRA-THIN

Three new models pay tribute to classical Haute Horlogerie

A contemporary homage to Geneva’s Haute Horlogerie tradition in a 36.5 mm case

Ne Manufacture calibre 1120 QP, a self-winding movement incorporating a perpetual calendar and moon phase display

High technical content complemented by refined and timeless aesthetics

Vacheron Constantin pays tribute to its long legacy of refined crafts- manship and technical savoir-faire with three new interpretations of the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Min, set in a case measuring 36.5 mm by 8.43 mm. Two models – one in 18K 5N pink gold and one in 18K white gold – are the first non-gem-set Traditionnelle watches to be offered in this case size and are complemented by a second 18K white gold model with a diamond-set bezel.

A contemporary heir to 18th-century Haute Horlogerie tradition

Appreciated by connoisseurs of classical Haute Horlogerie for both its refined aesthetic codes and its technical prowess, the Traditionnelle collection is imbued with the spirit of 18th-century high watchmaking – a spirit that has defined Vacheron Constantin ever since it was founded in 1755.

With aesthetics always at the service of functionality, the classical allure of traditional watchmaking is translated into distinctively elegant, contemporary design codes: a stepped round case and fluted caseback; straight-sided lugs and a slender bezel. Me dial designs emphasise balance, proportion and legibility, with a railway minute- track, faceted Dauphine-type hands and applied gold baton-style hour-markers.

Me perpetual calendar is deeply anchored in the Maison’s history. Me first example made by Vacheron Constantin was an 1884 perpetual calendar observatory watch now held in the Maison’s private collection. A complex mechanism, the perpetual calendar must automatically adjust to take into account the anomalies of the Gregorian calendar, including leap years as well as months of different lengths, with no need for manual correction until 2100.

A sought-after calibre

An eloquent expression of Vacheron Constantin’s technical mastery, Calibre 1120 QP reflects the Maison’s expertise in perpetual calendars as well as ultra-thin movements, the latter enabling it to set several records for slimness wristwatches since the 1930s. Ultra-thin movements must achieve a technically highly challenging – balance between the contradictory demands of fine components and robust construction.

With 276 components and a thickness of only 4.05 mm, the self-winding Manufacture calibre 1120 QP incorporates a perpetual calendar with day of the week, date and 48-month display with leap year indication, and a Moon phase and age of the Moon complication, as well as displaying hours and minutes. Commensurate with the mechanical quality of the calibre, watchmaking tradition is upheld by meticulous hand-finishing of the movement components. Me mainplate, despite being hidden beneath the dial, is circular grained, while the sapphire crystal caseback reveals Côtes de Genève and hand-bevelling on the bridges, circular satin-finished sinks for the jewels and screws and polished teeth on the going train. Also decorated with Côtes de Genève, the oscillating weight has a 22K gold outer segment and is open-worked in the shape of the Maison’s Maltese cross emblem.

Striking the balance between technical & aesthetic considerations

Me technical elegance of the movement architecture and impeccable finishes are matched by the refined aesthetics of the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Min. Me 36.5 mm diameter case is ideally proportioned for every size of wrist, both masculine and feminine, and was inspired by the dimensions of the Ref. 43031, created in 1983. When it was launched at the peak of the ‘quartz crisis’ – a time of waning interest in mechanical watchmaking – Ref. 43031 put high watchmaking firmly back on the map and was widely regarded as Vacheron Constantin’s quintessential perpetual calendar for the two decades that it was in production.

Me timeless proportions and crisp profile of the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra- Min’s case are complemented by the rigorous aesthetics of the dial, which also carries a strong echo of the Ref. 43031. Me emphasis is on balance and legibility, enhanced by the traditional silver-toned opaline background. Me date, day of the week and month are indicated by hands on three symmetrically placed circular registers that echo the shape of the combined phases and age of the Moon display, located at 6 o’clock.

Me pink gold model emphasises tonal harmony, with the colour and material of the 18K 5N pink gold case are repeated in the faceted Dauphine hands and applied baton-style hour markers. Contrast is provided by the dark blue background of the moonphase display, which is matched by a dark blue alligator strap with tone-on-tone stitching.

Me white gold model makes a subtle play on the classical colour palette, with hands and applied hour markers in 18K 5N pink gold and a lighter blue background for the moonphase display. A further twist is provided by the strap in a new shade of light brown alligator.

The diamond-set white gold model also adopts a minimalistic colour palette, with the 18K white gold case matched by hands and hour-markers in the same metal, and the cool white sparkle of grain-set diamonds on the bezel, top of the lugs and crown echoing the silvery tone of the opaline dial. Me dark blue moonphase background is matched by a dark blue alligator strap.

Honouring the codes of traditional Haute Horlogerie in contemporary form, the three new Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra- Min 36.5 mm watches are epitomising the Maison’s philosophy of balancing technicality and beauty, past and present.

Interview with Sandrine Donguy, Product & Innovation Director

Ne Traditionnelle collection offers models in different case sizes. Why did you decide to introduce these new Perpetual Calendar models in the 36.5 mm case?

As culture evolves, tastes are constantly changing and after more than a decade of large watches, many people are rediscovering the beauty of smaller case sizes – not only for their aesthetic appeal but also for their comfort on the wrist. At the same time, the strict separation between watches designated “men’s” and “women’s” has blurred, in terms of both style and size. We believe that the 36.5 mm diameter of the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Min hits the ‘sweet spot’, combining real presence on the wrist with a certain level of discretion. In fact, the diameter is only 0.5mm more than the case of the watch that directly inspired it: the Reference 43031, created by the Maison in 1983. Aside from its elegance and ergonomic comfort, the aesthetics of that watch also demonstrated how the complex indications of a perpetual calendar can be displayed on a small dial with no loss of elegance and legibility.

Can you tell us more about Vacheron Constantin’s approach to ultra-thin watchmaking?

When we look back through history, we see that the very essence of watchmaking has been the miniaturisation of timepieces, from the first clocks created in the 14th century, to pocket watches in the 18th century and ultimately to wristwatches from the late 19th century onwards. Ultra-thin movements are one expression of that drive to miniaturisation. However, they involve a unique technical conundrum: smaller and finer components are, by their nature, less stable and robust; however, stability and robustness are prerequisites for accurate timekeeping. Mis makes the creation of ultra-thin movements deceptively challenging, as watchmakers must design components and develop movement architecture that reconcile these conflicting aims as much as possible.

Vacheron Constantin has risen to this challenge since its beginnings. In 1829, Jacques Barthélémi wrote to François Constantin: “We thought it was good to establish some thin timepieces with a verge escapement, taking the greatest care to ensure that they were superior to those from the same category sold by our competitors!” Mis know-how enabled the Maison to push the boundaries of thinness in the 20th century - notably in 1928, with the so-called «surprise» timepieces – shutter watches, whose dials, concealed behind hinged shutters, appeared at the press of buttons located at the ends of the case, and were distinguished by an elegant slenderness suited to travel accessories. In 1931, the Maison created an ultra-thin pocket watch in platinum measuring just 0.94mm in height. In 1955, with the 1003 calibre, the Maison broke records and celebrated its bicentenary. Mis 1.64 mm thick calibre would subsequently equip many of the Maison’s models.

However, Vacheron Constantin has never been driven to develop the thinnest possible calibres for the sake of breaking records. Our approach to ultra-thin watchmaking has always been to balance the design and materials technology of the day with the beauty and values of the 18th-century Genevan Haute Horlogerie that remain at the core of our identity.