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Première Tourbillon Volant
H3261
| Brand : | Chanel |
| Collection : | Première |
| Model : | Première Tourbillon Volant |
| Reference : | H3261 |
| Nber of pieces : | Unique |
| Complement : | White Gold - Rubies - Alligator Strap |
| On sale : | 2012 |
PDF INDEX CARD
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Brand : Chanel Collection : Première Model : Première Tourbillon Volant Reference : H3261 Nber of pieces : Unique Complement : White Gold - Rubies - Alligator Strap On sale : 2012 List Price : 370 000 € Height : 37 mm Width : 28.50 mm Styles : High Jewellery Atypical Types : Hand-winding Calibre : Calibre “Camélia Flying Tourbillon” Calibre distinction : Cabochon tourbillon set with 19 brilliant-cut diamonds Complication : Tourbillon Case material : White Gold Case peculiarity : Crown set with a rose-cut ruby Set with 181 baguette-cut rubies Shape : Other Water-resistance : 30 meters Dial : Black ceramic Display : White gold hands set with diamonds Glass : Sapphire Antireflective coating Strap material : Alligator leather Strap color : Black Strap clasp : Double folding buckle + More characteristics : Calibre “Camélia Flying Tourbillon”
Movement designed exclusively for Chanel by Renaud & Papi (APRP SA)
Power reserve: 40 hours
Number of parts: 225
Parts chamfered. drawn and circular-grained by hand
Number of jewels: 18
Flying tourbillon:
73 parts – frame mass 0.432 g
Frequency:
21.600 vibrations / hour (3 Hz)
Motor unit: 1 fixed clamp barrel
Spring torque: 720 g.mm
“Custom” tailored rectangular bottom plate
Anti-shock system on the balance
Variable-inertia balance
The “Première Flying Tourbillon” watch. in 18 carat white gold. set with181 rubies for a total weight of 12.74 carats
Crown : 1 rose-cut ruby - 0.45 carat
34 brilliant-cut diamonds
Dial in polished black ceramic
Hands in 18 carat white gold. set with 15 brilliant-cut diamonds
Cabochon tourbillon set with 19 brilliant-cut diamonds
Case back in 18 carat white gold
Black alligator or satin strap
Double folding buckle in 18 carat white gold
DESCRIPTION
- THE “PREMIERE FLYING TOURBILLON” WATCH
On the 25th anniversary of CHANEL’s first watch the Première, whose shape was inspired by the octagonal geometry of the No. 5 perfume bottle stopper and the Place Vendôme, Chanel offers women the opportunity to enter into the world of high mechanical complications. Appropriately, this feminine incursion into the universe of watchmaking complexity is just as mysterious as it is beautiful and poetic.
After its first Tourbillon on a J12 model in 2005, this year, for the first time, Chanel presents a flying Tourbillon.
This exceptional Tourbillon, developed in close collaboration between Chanel and the Swiss manufacturers, engineers and master-watchmakers Renaud & Papi (APRP SA) – the advanced research and development branch of Audemars Piguet – is a first for both companies.
Decorated with the motif of the camellia, a tribute to Mademoiselle Chanel’s favorite fl ower, this flying Tourbillon beats away discreetly and almost secretly at the heart of the Première watch. The floral design creates a delicate texture with the use of interlocked petals and a heart that is paved with diamonds.
The flying Tourbillon makes one rotation per minute, with the petals indicating the seconds.
Equipped with a power reserve of 40 hours, this movement (“Camélia Flying Tourbillon” Caliber) has been mounted on a custom-designed rectangular bottom plate. All the finishes and parts that are chamfered, drawn and circular-grained by hand, adhere to the highest Swiss watchmaking traditions.
The hour and minute hands are off-center and set higher on the black ceramic dial.
The watch case maintains the perfectlybalanced original proportions, albeit in new dimensions : 28.5 mm by 37 mm, compared to 19 mm by 26 mm of the traditional Première.
The case, the bezel and the crown are set entirely with baguett-cut diamonds or Mozambique rubies certified natural and unheated, baguette-cut and a magnificent rose-cut gem with a diameter of 4.85 mm for the crown.
In its ruby version produced in one unique copy, the Première Tourbillon Volant watch is in 18-carat gold set with 181 baguette-cut rubies for a total weight of 12.74 carats, one 0.45-carat rose-cut ruby and 34 brilliant-cut diamonds. All the Mozambique rubies are certified natural and unheated.
It took 160 hours of gem-setting, 85 hours of assembly work (movement and case) and four days of testing to produce the piece.
The Flying Tourbillon
The frame of a traditional Tourbillon, which houses the suspended unit that regulates a watch (namely the balance and the spring, as well as the escapement) turns between the base of the movement, the bottom-plate and the upper bridge, which all hold this frame on its axis. It is this rotation that, by varying the positions of the regulating unit, compensate for the effects of the earth’s gravitational pull.
The Flying Tourbillon is more complex because it does not have an upper bridge. This absence enhances the aesthetics of the watch so the frame appears to be revolving weightlessly. However, without the upper bridge, the Flying Tourbillon still has to be able to resist impact just as well as a traditional Tourbillon. Consequently, the construction of the frame composed of a three-dimensional assembly of delicate elements, becomes a marvel of micromechanics.
- THE “PREMIERE FLYING TOURBILLON” WATCH
On the 25th anniversary of CHANEL’s first watch the Première, whose shape was inspired by the octagonal geometry of the No. 5 perfume bottle stopper and the Place Vendôme, Chanel offers women the opportunity to enter into the world of high mechanical complications. Appropriately, this feminine incursion into the universe of watchmaking complexity is just as mysterious as it is beautiful and poetic.
After its first Tourbillon on a J12 model in 2005, this year, for the first time, Chanel presents a flying Tourbillon.
This exceptional Tourbillon, developed in close collaboration between Chanel and the Swiss manufacturers, engineers and master-watchmakers Renaud & Papi (APRP SA) – the advanced research and development branch of Audemars Piguet – is a first for both companies.
Decorated with the motif of the camellia, a tribute to Mademoiselle Chanel’s favorite fl ower, this flying Tourbillon beats away discreetly and almost secretly at the heart of the Première watch. The floral design creates a delicate texture with the use of interlocked petals and a heart that is paved with diamonds.
The flying Tourbillon makes one rotation per minute, with the petals indicating the seconds.
Equipped with a power reserve of 40 hours, this movement (“Camélia Flying Tourbillon” Caliber) has been mounted on a custom-designed rectangular bottom plate. All the finishes and parts that are chamfered, drawn and circular-grained by hand, adhere to the highest Swiss watchmaking traditions.
The hour and minute hands are off-center and set higher on the black ceramic dial.
The watch case maintains the perfectlybalanced original proportions, albeit in new dimensions : 28.5 mm by 37 mm, compared to 19 mm by 26 mm of the traditional Première.
The case, the bezel and the crown are set entirely with baguett-cut diamonds or Mozambique rubies certified natural and unheated, baguette-cut and a magnificent rose-cut gem with a diameter of 4.85 mm for the crown.
In its ruby version produced in one unique copy, the Première Tourbillon Volant watch is in 18-carat gold set with 181 baguette-cut rubies for a total weight of 12.74 carats, one 0.45-carat rose-cut ruby and 34 brilliant-cut diamonds. All the Mozambique rubies are certified natural and unheated.
It took 160 hours of gem-setting, 85 hours of assembly work (movement and case) and four days of testing to produce the piece.
The Flying Tourbillon
The frame of a traditional Tourbillon, which houses the suspended unit that regulates a watch (namely the balance and the spring, as well as the escapement) turns between the base of the movement, the bottom-plate and the upper bridge, which all hold this frame on its axis. It is this rotation that, by varying the positions of the regulating unit, compensate for the effects of the earth’s gravitational pull.
The Flying Tourbillon is more complex because it does not have an upper bridge. This absence enhances the aesthetics of the watch so the frame appears to be revolving weightlessly. However, without the upper bridge, the Flying Tourbillon still has to be able to resist impact just as well as a traditional Tourbillon. Consequently, the construction of the frame composed of a three-dimensional assembly of delicate elements, becomes a marvel of micromechanics.
-
Brand : Chanel Collection : Première Model : Première Tourbillon Volant Reference : H3261 Nber of pieces : Unique Complement : White Gold - Rubies - Alligator Strap On sale : 2012 List Price : 370 000 € Height : 37 mm Width : 28.50 mm Styles : High Jewellery Atypical Types : Hand-winding Calibre : Calibre “Camélia Flying Tourbillon” Calibre distinction : Cabochon tourbillon set with 19 brilliant-cut diamonds Complication : Tourbillon Case material : White Gold Case peculiarity : Crown set with a rose-cut ruby Set with 181 baguette-cut rubies Shape : Other Water-resistance : 30 meters Dial : Black ceramic Display : White gold hands set with diamonds Glass : Sapphire Antireflective coating Strap material : Alligator leather Strap color : Black Strap clasp : Double folding buckle More characteristics : Calibre “Camélia Flying Tourbillon”
Movement designed exclusively for Chanel by Renaud & Papi (APRP SA)
Power reserve: 40 hours
Number of parts: 225
Parts chamfered. drawn and circular-grained by hand
Number of jewels: 18
Flying tourbillon:
73 parts – frame mass 0.432 g
Frequency:
21.600 vibrations / hour (3 Hz)
Motor unit: 1 fixed clamp barrel
Spring torque: 720 g.mm
“Custom” tailored rectangular bottom plate
Anti-shock system on the balance
Variable-inertia balance
The “Première Flying Tourbillon” watch. in 18 carat white gold. set with181 rubies for a total weight of 12.74 carats
Crown : 1 rose-cut ruby - 0.45 carat
34 brilliant-cut diamonds
Dial in polished black ceramic
Hands in 18 carat white gold. set with 15 brilliant-cut diamonds
Cabochon tourbillon set with 19 brilliant-cut diamonds
Case back in 18 carat white gold
Black alligator or satin strap
Double folding buckle in 18 carat white gold