Not easy to define the style of contemporary watchmaking watches. The Girard-Perregaux factory, however, offers a superb view of the perimeter in three points: elitism with the Planetarium Tri-Axial, chic sport with the Laureato, and retro-futuristic Neo-Bridges.
Girard-Perregaux left the SIHH in 2012 with a classic watchmaking piece, a 1966 calendar with an annual calendar and time equation. The manufacture returns this year to the Salon horloger de Genève after a Basque parenthesis, with a new orientation and new seductive, combining the codes of the past with a more modern style.
Planetarium Tri-Axial: Mobilis in mobile
An internationally renowned show is an opportunity to showcase its know-how in haute horlogerie with a “Talking Piece” that will make the buzz. And in order for the sauce to take, it is necessary to dose with precision technicity, design and communication. With the Planetarium Tri-Axial, the Girard-Perregaux manufacture controls the exercise. While a tri-axial tourbillon performs its rotation in two minutes, a hand-painted globe (customizable on demand) performs its in 24 hours. A discrete indicator allows to know on which part of the globe it makes day (side dial), where it is night (bottom side). A phase of the moon in miniature painting is inspired by the ultra-precise drawings of the star that scientists realized in the 17th century, to complete this masterpiece of haute horlogerie. All these elements are harmoniously arranged on a guilloché dial housed in an impressive box of 48 mm diameter. The show is grand!
Laureato: a must have to wear in any occasion
Laureato is a reference not to be missed in the world of luxury sports watches. The Girard-Perregaux emblematic watch comes with no fewer than thirty different references to satisfy all desires: steel, gold, combinations of materials (titanium and gold), four 4 diameters (34, 38, 42 and 45 mm), bracelet Metal or leather, for men, for women… In any case, the House has of course retained the polished octagonal bezel that adorns the round box without horns or handles. The dials with motif “nail of Paris” are here magnified by trendy colors. The Laureato carries on every day, in all circumstances. Its versatility makes it possible to associate it with a casual look as well as a more dressed outfit.
The Bridges collection at Girard-Perregaux is the signature of the Chaux-de-Fonds factory. It has gone through the ages with skeletal swirl movements, with three parallel bridges whose design has evolved significantly over time. This year, the historic architecture makes a small revolution with the Neo-Bridges watch. Exit the three bridges and the whirlpool! In place: two bridges, a large balance and a micro rotor positioned on the same line as the barrel. A galvanic NAC (blackening) treatment for the platinum, a PVD finish for the bridges, sandblasted components help reinforce the 3D architecture of the automatic caliber. The set takes place in a titanium box of 45 mm diameter, crowned with a domed sapphire crystal.
If Retro-futurism offers a vision of the future as seen in the past as in the past as we see it in the future, let’s admit that the Neo-Bridges has found its style well.
Girard-Perregaux made a remarkable comeback at the SIHH. The manufacturer uses its history with pertinence, while writing a new chapter full of promises.