The return of a watch icon

Ever since its inception in 2004 under the impulse of Hedi Slimane, the Chiffe Rouge has been the star of Dior’s watches for men. It has its afficionados, and its enthusiasts. How could one not be a fan, what, with its disruptive nature, it’s still breaking the mould today. The crown is set to 4h, the notched bezel is in the upper left-hand quarter, and the carefully studied asymmetry of its bumper right-hand side dazzles. Creative, technical, elegant, and a trailblazer, it channels the very essence of Christian Dior’s spirit. After a brief hiatus in 2015, the Chiffre Rouge is back, stronger than ever with eight new models.

By Chloé Redler

For the 20th anniversary of this iconic watch, Dior has gifted us a reimagined collection, one that reinvents itself while keeping the style that made it so wonderful. This collection comprises of eight models, five of which are already available, one will be presented this July and the other two later in October. So, without further ado: here are the five first Chiffre Rouge watches of 2024.

The new Chiffre Rouge by Dior chronograph and three-handed models.
© Thue Norgaard.

Red is the new black

It’s a real treat to review this new Chiffre Rouge collection by Dior, watches for men and for women, since the collection brands itself as unisex. What distinguishes this collection from previous ones is the ubiquitous cannage (see the video the D My Dior esprit cannage) motif, one of Dior’s most recognisable hallmarks.

The number 8 is the only on to be couloured red on the day disc plate.

Another specificity of the 2024 collection is the red calendar number – the number 8, Monsieur Dior’s lucky number – contained within three red circles. We can’t help but notice the equally red seconds hand on the three-handed Chiffre Rouge Black UltraMatte 38mm model. This hand is the more active part of the dial and contrasts beautifully with the vertical stripes and the cannage motif.

The new Chiffre Rouge collection bears the cannage motif on the dial.

Chiffre Rouge : legendary calibres

In the Chronograph variation (41mm model), the three arms of the chronograph are red and the small seconds at 9h is toned down, making way for the timekeeping thanks to its Zenith El Primero calibre. It’s only natural that we expect the finest from Dior, that’s why the world most legendary high frequency chronograph calibre: 36,000 shifts per hour (timekeeping sensitive 1/10th of a second) beats in this watch.

The three-handed calibre does not fall short either since it is equipped with a Sellita SW300, whose excellent performances are above scrutiny, with a 50-hour power reserve, just like the El Primero.

The Dior Chiffre Rouge 38 mm Black Diamond – © Thue Norgaard.

Yet another particularity this collection has is the bumper, which was added to the side of the case, and makes the delicate asymmetry stand out. The bumper comes in many different materials according to which case it belongs to (stainless-steel with black or pink DLC coating).

The limited editon (300 pieces) Dior Chiffre Rouge 38mm Black Diamond and its elegant bezel set with 60 black diamonds.

This brings us back to the quality of the watchmaking. Here too the 2024 collection has higher standards than its predecessor. This time with a screwed down crown, the case is no longer made of a single bloc, but two, which enables a juxtaposition between the polished and the glossy textures. The dial displays the engraved cannage motif, and the luminescent hands and indices improve the readability.

The 41mm Black UltraMatte chronograph model

The interchangeable strap allows you to adapt it to your outfit. Very chic with the alligator, or more informal with the cannage motif printed rubber strap, which is very soft to the touch. The rubber strap differs in its design according to which size you pick, macro cannage for the 38mm and micro cannage for the 41mm. Final important detail: the clasp on the buckle strap is signed ‘Dior’ in the upper angle. This buckle is fitted with a nifty system that lets you adjust it quickly and seamlessly up to 6mm.

These models are equipped with interchangeable straps that come either in leather or, as shown here, rubber with micro and macro cannage motifs.

Click here to read the full Chiffre Rouge – 38mm Black Diamond-Set technical sheet – €16,000

Click here to read the full Chiffre Rouge – 38mm Black Ultramatte technical sheet – €7,900

Click here to read the full Chiffre Rouge 41 mm Chronograph UltraMatte technical sheet – €13,500

And now for the two showstoppers

The Flying Tourbillons

These two beautiful and clever models are both 20-piece limited editions. They set themselves apart with their flying tourbillons that seem to be floating. This mesmerising effect is achieved by the unusual red bridge fixed to the dial, which certainly hasn’t escaped your trained eye. To keep with the spirit of the Chiffre Rouge collection, the movement calibre designers at La Fabrique du Temps had to imagine and create a gear-train that kept the crown at 4h. Brilliant and in keeping with the original design. The cannage motif present on the tourbillon carriage lines up perfectly with that of the dial. It’s a brief but stunning sight, a little miracle that happens once every minute. The front of the case is flawless, but it doesn’t stop there, as the back is also full of surprises: another gorgeous cannage motif engraved on the micro rotor.

The Chiffre Rouge Tourbillon Rainbow is graced with a rose gold bezel set with a rainbow of sapphires.

Let’s not forget the dazzling Chiffre Rouge Tourbillon Rainbow bezel, which is made of sapphires, rubies, amethysts, and tourmalines. A genuine work of art. Finally, every case of this 2024 collection is made of steel with a black DLC coating – Diamond Like Carbon – a very robust coating that’s inflexible and corrosion resistant. They are also water resistant up to 100 meters.

All in all, a brilliant collection that will surely be extremely well received. We are looking forward to showcase the next variations. Make sure to mark the date!


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