TIME

7 chic timepieces to keep summer going

The holidays may be drawing to a close, but some habits are worth holding on to. Taking your time… Lingering over a drink on a terrace… Enjoying a cocktail… Wearing a beautiful watch… Perhaps that is the true spirit of an Indian summer: a little interlude in which we make the most of the last of the good weather without compromising on elegance. That is precisely the thread running through this show, in which Frank Sans C, Loui Sans S, Edson Pannier of Le Point and I present a selection of exceptionally chic timepieces.

By Chloé Redler

When a watch becomes a style statement

Not every timepiece is designed to turn heads. The most elegant pieces are often highlighted thanks to a certain understatement. That is precisely the appeal of the Chanel Première and the Cartier Panthère, two creations that have played a significant role in redefining the women’s watch.

Instead of a bracelet, the iconic chain intertwined with a leather ribbon from the hallmark quilted Chanel bag — known as the 11.12 — wraps around the octagonal case of the Première Édition Originale, echoing the geometry of Place Vendôme.

When Chanel first launched the Première back in 1987, designed by Jacques Helleu, the brand wasn’t trying to rival Swiss watchmakers on complications. They simply wanted to create a stylish object. Its octagonal case mirrors the lines of the stopper on the legendary N°5 perfume, which itself took its design cues from the geometry of Place Vendôme, a view Gabrielle Chanel used to admire from the Ritz.

As for its leather-woven strap, it instantly echoes the chain of the 11.12 quilted bag. The new Première Édition Originale stays true to this philosophy, featuring a 26.1 x 20mm steel case coated in 18-carat yellow gold, a black-lacquered dial with no hour markers, a quartz movement, and 30-metre water resistance. Meanwhile, the Première Galon version leans even further into high jewellery, reimagining one of Chanel’s hallmark couture details with a twisted, diamond-set yellow gold rigid bracelet, housed in a 19.7 x 15.2mm case. More than just a watch, the Première bridges the gap between haute couture and fine watchmaking.

The Première Galon reimagines the dressmaker’s braid — one of Chanel’s hallmarks.

Over at Cartier, the Panthère plays a similar tune with a completely different personality. First launched in 1983, it quickly established itself as one of the most famous bracelet-watches on Place Vendôme. The small model presented measures 30.3 x 22mm and is a mere 6.05mm thick.

Its yellow gold case is set with 36 diamonds. Moreover, its semi-set bracelet houses 142 stones. It creates a subtle play of lights that mimics the feline’s spots. Staying true to Cartier’s classic design cues, it preserves the silvered dial with Roman numerals, a railtrack minute marker, blued-steel sword-shaped hands, the famous secret signature hidden in the X, and an octagonal crown topped with a diamond. Powered by a quartz movement and water-resistant to 30 metres, the Panthère is the ultimate bracelet-watch piece.

The Panthère Timepiece by Cartier features a silvered dial set with blued-steel sword-shaped hands, a railtrack minute marker, and Roman numerals featuring a secret signature.

When a colour sets the tone

If there is one watch which truly lives up to its name, it is the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time. For quite a few years now, the lineup has taken its design cues from the creations of the Star Bar, a well-known haunt in Tokyo’s Ginza district. This new GMT version pays tribute to the Skydiving cocktail, where a mix of rum, lime juice and blue curaçao results in a lovely, pale blue shade.

The Seiko Presage Cocktail Skydiving timepiece is inspired by the cocktail of the same name.

Seiko brings this colour to life through a sunbrushed dial, with shimmering reflections that catch the light just like a crystal glass. The details really tell the same story: the GMT hand is shaped like the stem of a cocktail glass, while the seconds hand mimics a sleek stirring stick. Beneath all that charm lies a proper travel watch which is water-resistant to 50 metres.

The GMT hand is shaped like the stem of a cocktail glass, while the seconds hand mimics a sleek stirring stick.

Its in-house 4R34 calibre features a second-time zone while packing a 41-hour power reserve. The 40.5mm steel case, topped with a domed Hardlex crystal, is paired with a five-link bracelet that catches the light brilliantly.

Two gradient dials with a tapisserie motif, which shifts from glacier blue or black to a metallic blue sheen — is a nod to the hues of dusk and dawn.

At Tissot, the various colourful dials of the PRX breathe fresh life into this icon crafted in 1978. On this edition, the gradient tapisserie dial moves from glacier blue to a metallic blue, calling to mind the hues of dusk and dawn. Measuring 40mm across, the 316L steel model houses the Powermatic 80 movement. It boasts an 80-hour power reserve and a magnetic-resistant Nivachron™ hairspring. It features a sapphire crystal and a clever interchangeable bracelet system.

This Tissot PRX boasts a 40mm 316L steel case and is water-resistant to 100 metres.

When style lies in the materials

Some timepieces draw your attention thanks to colours. Others prefer the expression of the materials. The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-winding is an absolute textbook example.

Crafted from 18-carat yellow gold, this 41mm Royal Oak Automatic stands out with a natural malachite dial. It is finished with 18-carat yellow gold hands and hour markers.

Available in 37mm — worn by the singer Bad Bunny at the Super Bowl — and a 41mm version, it pairs a case and bracelet, completely decked out in 18-carat yellow gold with a stunning polished malachite dial.

The rapper Bad Bunny worn the 37mm iteration during the last Super Bowl.

Because every natural stone is different, the green veins created by its crystallisation make every single watch completely unique. The yellow gold hour markers and hands are coated with luminescent material. The sapphire case backs highlight the in-house movements.

Visible through a sapphire crystal case back, the self-winding calibre delivers roughly a 70-hour power reserve. It is also adorned with Geneva stripes and fitted with an open-worked gold oscillating weight.

The 41mm iteration is powered by the calibre 4309, made of 225 components, adorned with 32 rubies. It oscillates at 4 Hz, and delivering a 70-hour power reserve. The 37mm version houses the calibre 5909, which is more compact with 174 components, 29 rubies and a 60-hour power reserve. Both models are water-resistant to 50 metres.

Thanks to the numerous veins of malachite, every single dial is one of a kind.

The Chopard Alpine Eagle loves to play with the light, too. Drawing its design cues from the St. Moritz — first launched back in 1980, it preserves that integrated bracelet and sporty-chic look while skyrocketing it into the 21st century. Crafted from Lucent Steel A223, which is shinier and tougher than standard steel, the dials are inspired by alpine glaciers and lakes, all while an in-house COSC-certified self-winding movement (sworn by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute) delivers up to 60 hours of power reserve.

The dial’s texture nods to the eagle’s iris. Moreover, the cool glint of the steel mirrors frosty glaciers and the hands nod to the bird’s feathers.

Every single touch — from the texture of the blue Aletsch dial which nods to an eagle’s eye right down to the clever mix of brushed and polished finishes — reminds us that refinement isn’t just about gemstones, but also mastery over materials and finishes.

COSC-certified as a chronometer, the self-winding calibre boasts roughly a 60-hour power reserve.

Audemars Piguet, Royal Oak Automatic in 41mm  €74,000

AUDEMARS PIGUET WEBSITE

Cartier, Panthère Timepiece by Cartier – €52,000

CARTIER WEBSITE

Chanel, Première Édition Originale Watch – €5,650

Chanel, yellow gold Première Galon set with diamonds €28,300

CHANEL WEBSITE

Chopard, Alpine Eagle 41  €16,100

CHOPARD WEBSITE

Seiko, Presage Cocktail Skydiving – SSK037J1  €419

SEIKO WEBSITE

Tissot, PRX – €775

TISSOT WEBSITE

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