Reduced diameter

The seven faces of the new Omega Speedmasters

With its new 38 mm Speedmaster models, Omega expands the scope of one of its most iconic collections. Seven new references enrich the line, featuring a palette that ranges from black to white, and from silver to glacier blue not to mention ivory, mother of pearl, and various two-tone combinations. This diversity of colors and materials allows each model to express its own unique personality while drawing closer to the aesthetic codes of the legendary Moonwatch. All of this takes place under the watchful eye of the brilliant, spirited, and fascinating Jean-François Clervoy.

By Chloé Redler

Seven dials, seven personalities

It is primarily through the dial that the new watches stand out. The watchmaker has paid special attention to colors and contrasts, making this new series a true exercise in style. The version with the matte black lacquered dial is the one that comes closest to the traditional aesthetic of the famous Moonwatch.

This Speedmaster 38 model comes closest to the aesthetic codes of the legendary Moonwatch.

It pairs its dark dial with a black aluminum bezel, while the Super-LumiNova-coated hands and indices illuminate the dial in the dark. The result is both sporty and understated almost monochromatic.

The white lacquered dial contrasts with the blue CVD-coated hands and indices.

The version with the white dial offers a radically different look. Its lacquered dial harmonizes with blue hands and indices, matching the numerals on the date display. The blue ceramic bezel, featuring a white enamel tachymeter scale, reinforces this color combination. Another model features a silvery opaline PVD dial paired with a warm-grey aluminum bezel and Sedna™ gold-colored hands and indices.

As for the hands, they feature a finish that is either brown PVD or Sedna™ gold.

The two two-tone models take the exploration of materials a step further. The first combines steel with 18K Moonshine™ gold, featuring a bezel crafted from polished gold and green aluminum. The bracelet’s small central links also echo the yellow gold of the bezel, creating a visual continuity between the dial, the case, and the wrist.

This watch combines a steel case with a bezel in polished 18K Moonshine™ gold and green aluminum, featuring a yellow gold tachymeter scale.

The second model revisits the “Cappuccino” aesthetic already associated with the Speedmaster 38: its ivory dial features brown sub-dials, while 18K Sedna™ gold adds warmth to the bezel and bracelet.

S’inspirant du style « Cappuccino » emblématique de la collection Speedmaster 38 mm, cette itération présente un cadran de couleur ivoire rehaussé de compteurs contrastants revêtus de PVD brun. 

Drawing inspiration from the iconic “Cappuccino” style of the Speedmaster 38 mm collection, this iteration features an ivory-colored dial enhanced by contrasting PVD-coated brown sub-dials.

Details that bring the Speedmaster 38 closer to the Moonwatch

Amidst these numerous variations, Omega sought to establish a consistent unifying theme. The Speedmaster 38 retains its 38 mm case. With a thickness of 14.75 mm and water resistance to 100 meters, it remains a watch that is compact in diameter yet substantial in its proportions. Its domed sapphire crystal features an anti-reflective coating on both sides, while the screw-in caseback bears the Speedmaster medallion and the famous Seahorse emblem.

The Seahorse, emblem of the Speedmaster.

However, it is primarily in the details that the Moonwatch inspiration becomes most apparent. The previous oval sub-dials have been replaced by round ones, giving the dial a sportier look that more closely resembles the Speedmaster Professional. The bezel is also thicker and features the famous “Dot Over Ninety” the small dot positioned above the number 90 that is one of the Moonwatch’s most recognizable details.

On the bezel, there is the dot above the number 90, a characteristic feature of the Moonwatch.

The bracelet also reflects this inspiration. The seven models are presented on a five-link bracelet inspired by the one found on the legendary watch featuring various combinations of polished and brushed finishes. Naturally, the two-tone versions incorporate small central links in 18K Moonshine™ or Sedna™ gold. Furthermore, the entire assembly benefits from Omega’s patented Comfort Release adjustment system, which allows for two additional 2.30 mm positions.

Each watch is presented on a five-link Moonwatch bracelet, with center links that are either polished or satin-finished, depending on the reference.

Two calibers for seven interpretations

Ultimately, the diversity ends where the mechanics begin. Beneath these varied dials, Omega retains a shared architecture and two automatic movements from the Co-Axial family. Six of the seven references feature the Calibre 3330, while the version with the black dial which lacks a date display is powered exclusively by the Calibre 3332. Both offer a 52-hour power reserve. The presence of the date function is thus one of the few functional differences between the two movements.

With this new series, the brand is not simply seeking to multiply Speedmaster models for the sake of expanding the catalog. Instead, it relies on a straightforward concept: taking a single architecture and giving it different looks. From sporty black, contemporary white and blue, and silver and gold to “Cappuccino” tones, ice blue, or diamond-set mother-of-pearl, each of the seven references tells a different Speedmaster 38 story.

Speedmaster 38 – steel, white dial, and blue bezel – €6,900
Speedmaster 38 – steel – silver dial – dark grey bezel – €6,500
Speedmaster 38 – steel – black dial – €6,400
Speedmaster 38 – steel, Sedna™ gold – off-white dial and “cappuccino” sub-dials – €11,400
Speedmaster 38 – steel, Moonshine™ Gold – silvery dial – dark green bezel- €11,400
Speedmaster 38 – steel – diamond bezel – mother-of-pearl dial – €12,800
Speedmaster 38 – steel – diamond bezel – blue dial – €12,000

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