BACK IN BLACK

Black is the new black

Is black a colour? Good question. It’s definitely a shade. And it’s definitely a trend that watchmakers are hopping on, with noteworthy – and praiseworthy – designs. When it comes to watches, black is the new black.

By Frank Declerck, Laure Rasse

Yes, but… don’t go buying the first black watch that comes along. If the watch is treated with poor quality material, soon enough that black colour will fade around the edges of the case and the bracelet. Steel must be blackened according to the rules of the art, for example with DLC coating. This process is used by big manufactures to guarantee long-lasting shine and colour depth.

LA D DE DIOR BLACK ULTRAMATTE

Victoire de Castellane, Dior’s legendary creative director, pulls out all the stops with this ebony-coloured D de Dior. It follows the spirit of Monsieur Dior, who once said: “I could write a whole book about black”. 

L'élégance de la D de Dior Ultramatte ne fait aucun doute lorsqu'on la passe au poignet.
The elegance of the D de Dior Ultramatte is beyond doubt when slipped on the wrist.

With its exclusive Milanese mesh strap, the D de Dior Black Ultramatte is like an incredibly smooth black silk ribbon that could tell the time.
A watch or a jewel? That’s up to you. I think it can be both. In its version with a bezel set in black diamonds, this is undoubtedly a woman’s watch.

Véritablement non genrée lorsque la lunette est martelée, la D de Dior Ultramatte se féminise avec la lunette sertie de diamants noir.
La D de Dior is truly gender-neutral with its hammered bezel, but takes on a feminine look with the bezel set in black diamonds.

However, this is up for debate with the three small black diamond indices. This watch would be extremely chic on a man with a slim wrist in formal wear. 
Even with the diamond-studded crown that remains very understated.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

34 mm case in black DLC-coated steel
Steel crown with engraved logo, set with 13 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.07 ct)
Black DLC-coated steel bezel boasting a ‘Satine’ motif
Water resistance: 30 meters (98 feet) 
Polished black PVD-coated Dauphine hands
Three brilliant-cut diamond indices (0.02 ct)
Anti-glare sapphire crystal
Milanese strap in black DLC-coated steel
Unfolding buckle
Quartz movement

Satine hammered bezel version – €4,300

52 diamond set bezel version – €6,800

BULGARI BULGARI

This black watch stands out with its bezel engraving, spelling out BVLGARI twice. Hence its nickname, BB. Don’t forget Bulgari is an Italian maison, even though their watches are manufactured in Switzerland. This explains the V-shaped U, a design borrowed from imperial Rome, when mottoes and names were engraved on the pediments of temples and monuments.

Avec son calibre mécanique de manufacture, la Bvlgari-Bvlgari affiche un diamètre de 41 mm et se dote d'une date à 3 heures.
With its manufacture mechanical calibre, the Bvlgari Bvlgari has a 41mm case and displays the date at 3 o’clock.

This icon now features in the permanent collection, to the delight of enthusiasts. All enthusiasts, as the watch is available in two sizes: 33mm with quartz movement and 41mm with selfwinding mechanical BVL 191 calibre, visible through the transparent caseback. 

Avec son mouvement quartz et sa taille de 33 mm, la Bulgari-Bvlgari s'impose comme une montre féminine et de caractère.
In its 33mm and quartz version, the Bvlgari Bvlgari asserts itself as a feminine model with great character.

This fine DLC-coated black steel watch has a steel crown set with a black ceramic insert, stainless steel bracelet with DLC coating, and unfolding buckle. It boasts a black lacquered dial with applique indices. This happy Italian-Swiss marriage results in absolute chic.

Un fond saphir permet d'admirer un calibre automatique de belle facture muni d'une masse oscillante siglée.
The sapphire caseback reveals a finely crafted automatic calibre, featuring a branded oscillating mass.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Diameter (mm): 41 or 33
Automatic or quartz
Black DLC stainless steel
42-Hour power reserve 
Water resistance: 50 m

Mechanical calibre version – €5,200

Quartz movement version – €3,900

TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4
Porsche Edition 

The icy-blue look of this black watch was inspired by Porsche’s electric car, the Taycan.

Le cadran "circuit imprimé" de la TAG Heuer Porsche Connected lui donne un look exclusif et très futuriste.
The TAG Heuer Porsche Connected features a dial with a printed circuit board design, giving it an exclusive and futuristic look.

I can already hear purists scream “an electric Porsche! That’s a capital offence!” Well, I see where they’re coming from – I used to think like them. Until I tried out the Taycan Turbo for myself. That test drive was not off to a good start, because all I could think was “Calling an electric car a Turbo, what a joke…” To which Porsche replied: “Just try it, and then we’ll talk.” Wow. Let’s just say: prepare to be amazed and astounded. I’ve never driven a passenger car that could accelerate this way. Even a GT can’t speed like this. Hence the “Turbo” in the name, I’m told, to convey the gentle brutality of the thing. Alright, I’ll take it. Hats off to Porsche. Anyway, tangent’s over, I’m putting away my prejudice. Okay, just one last thing: you can’t beat the sound of a sport exhaust. 

Bleu et noir, les poussoir reprennent les codes couleurs de la TAG Heuer Porsche Connected.
The black and blue pushers echo the colours of the TAG Heuer Porsche Connected.

But back to the watch: in addition to all the features of the E4 caliber we talked about in our video on connected watches (see below), it has Wear OS features for Porsche owners – their car info displayed directly on the dial. For instance, mileage and electric or gas driving range. The watch can also be used to adjust air conditioning, heating, and chassis condition.

Les fonctions spéciales de la TAG Heuer Porsche Connected dédiées aux automobiles du constructeur.
Special functions on the TAG Heuer Porsche Connected, dedicated to the brand’s vehicles.

Stunning colour, carbon imitation black calf leather, strap topstitching… Everything evokes the meticulous design of Porsche interiors. A frank success, bound to be a Porsche owner’s second – or umpteenth – watch. A word of caution, however: not all car models are compatible at the moment. Here’s the list: Panamera (G2 II, 2022 models and later), Panamera (G2), 911 (992, 2022 models and later), Cayenne (E3, 2022 models and later), Cayenne (E2 II), 718, Macan II/III, Macan, Taycan.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Autonomy: full day (including Wellness, 1.5 hours of running, 2 hours of walking) and full day (including Wellness and 5 hours of golf)
Charging time: 100% in 1.5 hours 
Heart rate monitor, compass, accelerometer, gyroscope, NFC, microphone, barometer
Operating system: Wear2 by Google
Sports apps: running, cycling, fitness, swimming, golf, etc.
Chronometer, timer, alarm
Exclusive Porsche dial
45 mm diameter
Grade 2 sand-blasted black DLC coating titanium case
Black polished ceramic bezel with icy blue and lacquered grey details
Flat sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 50 m

€2,650 (click here for a 3D showcase)

AquisPro Date Calibre 400

Designed to be used for saturation dives (very deep dives), this black watch is a highly technical tool for professionals. It was designed for professional divers working in helium-enriched environments, often hundreds of meters deep.

La Oris Aquispro date n'est pas si imposante que ça au poignet et pourtant de dimension très généreuse.
The Oris AquisPro Date boasts generous dimensions, but is not too intimidating when worn.

Particularly noteworthy is its bezel locking system, Oris’s patented Rotation Safety System (RSS). This function allows the wearer to adjust and lock the uni-directional rotating bezel securely into place. Its chunky rubber grip makes it easy to operate, even when wearing gloves. 

Le minutage en jaune sur la lunette permet à cette montre Oris Aquispro Date d'être lisible même dans l'obscurité des profondeurs.
A yellow minutes scale on the bezel delivers high levels of low-light legibility.

Of course, it has all the attributes of a diving watch, with a helium valve. The highly reliable, well-crafted 400 calibre adds further quality to this instrument.

Le système de blocage de la lunette sur cette montre Oris est très efficace.
The bezel locking system on this Oris watch is very effective.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

49.5 mm case in titanium and black DLC-coated steel
Ceramic bezel
Anti-glare sapphire crystal
Water resistant to 1,000 meters
Automatic 400 calibre
120-hour power reserve

€4,400

Connected watches: a new generation is seizing power
Oris Calibre 400, revolution in the making: part II