Star Watch – Episode 2: the attack of the chronos
For his second programme filmed in the heart of the Watches and Wonders 2022, Frank Sans C makes you discover the most beautiful Tudor, Rolex, Zenith and Hublot novelties. Immersion!
The novelties discovered at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022 are as numerous as they are varied. Among the major Swiss manufactures taking part, it is the turn of Tudor, Rolex, Zenith and Hublot to show their latest creations to Frank Sans C for a second programme dedicated to the event.
For those who missed the first progamme and the article dedicated to it, here is, the catch-up session: Cartier, Trilobe et Van Cleef & Arpels at the Geneva salon.
And here :
Let us start immediately this second tour of Watches and Wonders 2022 with the TUDOR novelties.
The Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G is a champagne-coloured panda
A Tudor emblematic piece, the Black Bay is a watch with a vintage look inspired by the diving instruments manufactured by the Maison between the 1950s and 1970s. Since then, the watch has been offered in numerous ranges such as this chronograph named S&G standing for Steel & Gold. While remaining faithful to the aesthetic characteristics of the original pieces of origin, this Tudor novelty for Watches & Wonders 2022 features a very attractive champagne colour dial contrasted with black counters and the iconic luminescent « snowflake » hands with their angular design. COSC certified, this sporty range is powered by an automatic calibre equipped with an anti-magnetic silicon balance spring and a 70 hours power reserve.
Price: €5,640
Also available with steel and yellow gold bracelet (€6,830) and black fabric strap (€5,640)
Technnical specifications:
Manufacture Calibre MT5813 with chronograph function
Swiss chronometer officially certified by the COSC
Functions : hours and minutes in the centre
Chronograph seconds in the centre
45-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Instantaneous date at 6 o’clock with quick-set without non-correction range
Antimagnetic silicon balance spring
Power reserve of approximatively 70 hours
Fixed yellow gold bezel with black anodised aluminium disc with tachymeter scale, yellow gold markings
Yellow gold screw-down crown with the TUDOR rose in relief
Yellow gold screw-down pushers at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock
Champagne-coloured dial with black counters, domed
Date at 6 o’clock
Water-resistant to 200 m
Dark brown leather strap with removable cuff
Steel folding clasp and steel safety clasp
The Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G is a watch for globetrotters at Watches and Wonders 2022
Among the novelties presented by Tudor at Watches and Wonders 2022, the Tudor Black Bay GMT includes Steel&Gold representing day and night, equip this piece with three time zones. Highly visible, the reference time is indicated by a « Snowflake » hand that goes around the dial in 24 hours. As for the local time, the time is indicated by another shorter « Snowflake » hand. While the bidirectional rotating bezel graduated over 24 hours (the twelve hours of the day in brown, those of the night in black) and the « 24 hours » hand follows a third time zone. Enough to please globetrotters!
Price:
Steel and yellow gold bracelet: €5,230
Brown leather strap and black fabric strap with beige strip: €4,040
Technical specifications:
41 mm steel case
48-notch bidirectional rotating bezel in yellow gold with 24-hours graduated matt brown and black anodised yellow gold and aluminium disc
Yellow gold screw-down crown
Black, domed dial
Domed sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 200 m
Manufacture Calibre MT5652
COSC certification
Functions : jumping hours (second time zone), 24 hours, minutes and seconds in the centre
Instantaneous date at 3 o’clock
Antimagnetic silicon balance spring
Power reserve of approximately 70 hours
The Tudor Black Bay Pro, a tempered steel character
Last novelty at Tudor and not least, the Black Bay Pro is in line with the heritage of the instruments used by the British North Greenland Expedition explorers. Indeed, seventy years ago, the manufacture founder, Hans Wildorf, gave to each member of this arctic expedition, a water-resistant and automatic Oyster Prince piece. A foolproof way of testing this tool-watch in the most extreme conditions.
From an aesthetic point of view, even though we find the design of the Black Bay collection, some details differ the Pro watch from the other references. The winding crown is plated to the band of the case middle, its tube is thus invisible. Furthermore, the hour markers are in luminous ceramic for a better legibility. Finally, the clasp is equipped with the « T-fit » system that facilitates the adjustment of the bracelet length. On the technical side, this 39 mm steel edition has two time zones powered by a COSC certified automatic calibre.
Price:
All steel model: €3,750
Black fabric strap with yellow band: €3,450
Hybrid rubber and leather strap: €3,450
Technical specifications:
39 mm-diameter polished and satin finish steel case with 24-hour graduated fixed steel bezel
Domed, grained matt black dial, with applied monobloc luminous ceramic hour markers
« Snowflake » hands with Super-Luminova®
Manufacture calibre MT5652
COSC certified
Silicon balance spring
Power reserve of approximatively 70 hours
Three strap options : black Jacquard fabric, hybrid rubber and leather or riveted 316L steel with Tudor “T-fit” clasp with rapid adjustment
ROLEX: A SUCCESFUL COLLECTION
The famous maison with the crown has presented several novelties that deserve more than one award. As usual, robustness, elegance and mechanical excellence are not lacking, with on top of that, this time, an unexpected creation that is already a limited edition.
The Rolex Datejust 31 and its striking floral-motif dial unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2022
Spring is in the air in the Rolex women’s collection with three new Datejust 31 mm-diameter whose dials are decorated with a very seductive floral-motif.
It is above all this edition in grey Rolesor (fluted bezel in grey gold, Oystersteel steel case and bracelet) that made impression at Watches and Wonders 2022. Indeed, it features a superb « azzuro » blue dial where the 24 flowers have a different finish – satin fnish, matt or grained – and sparkle with a small diamond set in the centre of the petals.
If this Rolex Datejust 31 is delicate, it does not forget to meet the manufacture’s requirements: water-resistant to 100 m, ultramodern automatic movement, Superlative Chronometer certification.
Price: €9,550
Technical specifications:
Oyster case in grey Rolesor
Case middle in Oystersteel
Fluted bezel in grey gold
Oystersteel screw-down case back
Twinlock screw-down crown
Sapphire crystal with cyclops lens
Water-resistant to 100 m
Automatic Rolex 2236 calibre
Superlative Chronometer Certification
Frequency : 28’800 A/h (4 Hz)
Syloxi balance spring in silicon with patented geometry
Paramagnetic escapement wheel in nickel-phosphorus
31 rubies
Power reserve : approximatively 55 hours
Brilliant, floral-motif, blue azzurro dial
24 diamonds set on grey gold bezels
Grey gold hands
Oystersteel bracelet
Day-Date, platinum versions with fluted bezel
Until now, the fluted bezel has only been made of gold at Rolex. It is revealed at Watches and Wonders 2022 in a new precious metal and not the least: platinum. It is the first time in the manufacture’s collections as all the previous platinum pieces have a smooth bezel.
So how can you know, by looking at it, if a Day-Date piece is in grey gold or platinum ?
The precious metals specialist will answer that platinum has a unique, whiter lustre. The Rolex enthusiasts will explain that all we have to do is look at the ice blue dial.
An exclusive sign of recognition that is verified on the 40 mm Day-Date piece and on the 36 mm version that Frank Sans C could hold in hand to make a beautiful duo of novelties on the screen.
Another detail allowing to recognise a platinum Rolex watch: the discreet presence of a small dot located under the maison’s emblem that decorates the winding-crown.
Price:
Day-Date 40 : €59,700
Day-Date 36 : €56,600
Technical specifications of the Day-Date 40 and 36 :
Oyster case in 950 platinum
Twinlock screw-down crown
Sapphire crystal with cyclops lens
Water-resistant to 100 m
Rolex calibre 3255 automatic
Superlative Chronometer Certification
Frequency : 28 800 A/h (4 Hz)
Parachrom blue paramagnetic balance spring
31 rubies
Power reserve : approximatively 70 hoursSun finish, sparkling, ice blue dial
Facetted, fine Roman numerals and facetted hour markers in grey gold
Blue PVD Seconds hand for the Day-Date 40
President bracelet in 950 platinum
Air King, successful technical and aesthetic changes
At first glance, the transformations are not obvious, and yet. We could even say that we had imagined it so much like this, that we could not see the old version as it was.
As you can see, the changes made to the Air King (€6,950) are obvious. Let us start with a 40 mm case completely redesigned, that has now a crown protection shoulder and straight case sides like the other called « Professionals » Rolex watches.
The legibility is improved thanks to a new exclusive luminiscent material that benefits also to the numbers 3,6 and 9 that were in grey gold on the previous version. The dial finds also a new balance with the addition of a 0 in front of the 5 so that all the timer indicators are in two digits. Well spotted !
Price : €6,950
Technical specifications :
Technical specifications of the Day-Date 40 and 36 :
Oyster case in Oystersteel steel
Twinlock screw-down crown
Sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 100 m
Rolex calibre 3230 automatic
Superlative Chronometer certification
Frequency : 28 800 A/h (4 hZ)
Parachrom blue paramagnetic balance spring31 rubies
Power reserve : approximatively 70 hours
Black lacquered dial
Numbers 3,6,9 and grey gold index with long-term luminescence
Grey gold hands with long-term luminescence
Oyster bracelet in Oystersteel
GMT-Master II, a new unexpected reference at Watches and Wonders 2022
The new GMT-Master II (€10 400) is undoubtedly the biggest surprise of the Rolex 2022 manufacture year unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2022. Two particularities distinguish this instrument that, as soon as it was announced, was propelled to the rank of limited edition.
The first is, of course, the unusual position of the crown – on the left. This is not the first time that Rolex has designed a called « left-handed » watch. But the pieces made in the past are extremely rare in the manufacture’s history and were never intended to be marketed.
Crown on the left and two-tone black and green bezel
The other singularity of this new 40 mm-diameter GMT-Master II is the new chromatic combination of the high tech ceramic monobloc insert -black and green – of the bidirectional bezel. Graduated over 24 hours and easy to handle, it allows to read the second time zone. An information given by the additional central hand with triangular tip.
What is interesting with this version is that it can be worn on the right wrist by left-handed persons as well as on left wrist by the right-handed persons who prefer not to feel the crown rubbing the top of the hand during certain movements. Basically, it can be worn any way we like.
Price : €10,400
Technical specifications :
Oyster case in oystersteel
Bidirectional rotating bezel with Cerachrom monobloc disc graduated 24 hours two-tone green and black ceramic; graduations and numerals hollowed out with platinum deposit by PVD technique
Triplock screw-down crown
Sapphire crystal with cyclops lens
Water-resistant to 100 m
Automatic Rolex calibre 3285
Superlative Chronometer Certification
Frequency : 28 800 A/h (4 Hz)
Blue paramagnetic parachrom balance spring
31 rubies
Power reserve: approximatively 70 hours
Black lacquered dial
Grey gold hands with long-term luminescence
Green lacquered 24 hours hand
Steel Oyster bracelet Oystersteel
ZENITH OPENS ITS HEART !
A specialist in chronographs – with its famous high frequency El Primero Calibre in 1969 – the Swiss manufacture is focused on pieces with openworked dial for an atypical touch and rose gold sporty versions for a refined style.
Chronomaster Open, window with a view
Twenty years after the creation of the first Chronomaster Open pieces, the Zenith manufacture recreates this openwork dial variant of its legendary chronograph for Watches and Wonders 2022. If the design of the opening has not changed, the visible gears on the front side belong to an ultramodern El Primero Calibre presented in 2021.
It is more precisely a modified version since the master watchmakers have openworked the plate and bridges of this high frequency (5Hz) automatic movement. This chiselling allows to offer a better view on the escapement whose lever and wheel are made of silicon, a high tech material of bluish colour and completely anti-magnetic. It is also necessary to underline that, for legibility, the presence of a true small second hand that evolves at 9 o’clock above a transparent hesalite counter.
All-steel with a silver or black dial for a more sporty spirit or rose gold on a blue leather strap for a more chic combination, this new Chronomaster Open watch, discovered at Watches and Wonders 2022, is equipped with a 39.5 mm-diameter case. It measures – and displays – the tenth of a second thanks to its central second hand that goes around the dial in only 10 secondes.
Price:
Steel Chronomaster Open: €9,700
Rose gold Chronomaster Open: €19,600
Technical specifications:
Automatic Calibre chronograph with El Primero column wheel able to measure and display the tenth of second. Opening on the mythical heart beating of the movement. Escapement wheel and silicon anchor. Stop-second mecanism.
Movement: El Primero 3604 Automatic
Frequency: 36 000 A/h (5 Hz)
Power reserve: app. 60 hours
Functions: 10th of second chronograph function. Hours and minutes in the centre. Small seconds at 9 o’clock. Chronograph second hand making a turn in 10 seconds, 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock, 60-second counter at 3 o’clock.
Finishing stage: new oscillating mass starred to the finishing stages
Material: stainless steel or rose gold
Water-resistant: 10 ATM (50m)
Dial: matt silver with 2 colour counters and one translucent polymer counter
Super-LumiNova® hour markers
Super-LumiNova® Hands
Metal bracelet with double folding clasp ou blue calf leather bracelet with triple gold folding clasp
Chronomaster Sport, a sporty chic vision
Winner of the Chronograph Prize at the last Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), the Chronomaster Sport piece is presented in new versions at Watches and Wonders 2022: both in rose gold and in two-tone rose gold and steel watches.
The watches enrich the young eponymous collection inaugurated by Zenith last year with some references in steel. A collection that met an immediate success and became one of the manufacture’s pilars. It has to be said that the instrument does not lack, aesthetically, seductive assets, and, technically, watchmaking arguments, to convince the lovers of beautiful mechanical sports watches.
The arrival of these new precious metal versions is a logical continuation in the development of the newZenith collection. And it must be admitted that rose gold suits very well the 41 mm chronograph whose 10th of second scale is directly engraved on the bezel. Indeed, the rose gold gives the chronograph a more refined style without denaturating its sporty character.
Chronomaster Sport steel/rose gold price: €16,700
Chronomaster Sport rose gold price: €37,400
Technical specifications:
Key points: automatic chronograph calibre with El Primero column wheel able to measure and display the le 10th of second, indicated here on the gold bezel. Date window at 4.30 o’clock
Stop second mecanism.
Movement: El Primero 3600 Automatic
Frequency 36 000 A/h (5 Hz)
Power reserve: app. 60 hours
Functions: 10th of second chronograph function. Hours and minutes in the centre. Small seconds at 9 o’clock. Chronograph second hand making a turn in 10 seconds, 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock, 60-second counter at 3 o’clock.
Finishing stage: new oscillating mass starred to the satin finishing stages
Material: stainless steel or rose gold 18 carat with gold bezel or rose gold 18 carat with gold bezel
Water-resistant: 10 ATM (50m)
Dial: sun silver or black lacquered with 3 different colour counters
Gold-plated, faceted and Super-LumiNova® coated hour markers
Gold-plated, facetted and coated Hands with Super-LumiNova®
Stainless steel and rose gold bracelet with double folding clasp or rose gold bracelet with double folding clasp
HUBLOT : DEFINITIVELY NEW !
Square Bang Unico, a shaped watch at Watches and Wonders 2022
With the Square Bang Unico collection, Hublot presents a new case shape : the square. This is a serious challenge for the manufacture that has managed to place a round movement – because the basic component of any calibre is the wheel – in a square, without hiding anything.
Indeed, completely skeletonised, the five 43 mm-diameter pieces offered are already available and have a chronograph movement with the flyback function. In his video, Frank Sans C presents us the All Black and the King Gold Ceramic. Limited to 250 pieces, the first designed in ceramic has an ultramodern total blacklook by playing the nuance card with its polished and satin finish. As for the second, it combines the black ceramic of its bezel with the King Gold watch of its case for a startling contrast. Beautiful editions designed to seduce lovers of beautiful mechanical watches.
Price :
42 mm Square Bang Unico All Black: €25 900
42 mm Square Bang Unico King Gold Ceramic: €39 400
Technical specifications:
42 mm polished black ceramic case and satin finishing stages / Satin and polished King Gold 18 K
Polished and satin black ceramic bezel with 6 H-shaped titanium screws
Water-resistant to 100 m
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Sapphire crystal dial
HUB1280 movement of UNICO manufacture with automatic winding, flyback chronograph and column wheel
Power reserve of 72 hours
Rubber bracelet structured black
Black ceramic and black plated titanium folding clasp / 18 K King Gold and black plated titanium folding clasp
Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire: ultra purple
Hublot presents itself to a world premiere at Watches and Wonders 2022 with its watch made in translucent purple sapphire. The new Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire illustrates the Maison’s expertise in the synthetic sapphires field. That’s right ! This is not its first attempt. Orange, green, blue, yellow or red sapphire, the manufacture has been making us see all kinds of colours for several years.
Chemically composed of aluminium oxide and chromium, this new purple colour is new in the watchmaking world. Another small feat, the Nyon workshops’ merge the case back and the form by associating in the center of the sapphire case, a bezel – with six visible H-shaped screws so characteristic – with an automatic tourbillon whose mecanism can be admired. With a power reserve to 72 hours, the calibre is equipped of a micro-rotor located at 12 o’clock, a new and original position that allows a clear view on the whole mecanism.
Price: €198,000 – Limited Edition of 50 pieces
Technical specifications:
Case in polished purple sapphire
Diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 14.5 mm
Water-resistant to 30 m
Polished purple sapphire case back
Polished purple sapphire bezel
Sapphire dial
Movement HUB6035
Self-winding micro-rotor, skeleton tourbillon
Power reserve of approximatively 72 hours
Purple transparent lined rubber strap
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