ROBINSON SENSATION

And at the world’s very end comes Tikehau

When it comes to finding a place to escape, the sheer distance speaks for itself. With that said, the intensity brought by the destination matters just as much for anyone dreaming of a break "far from the madding crowd” or “sheltered from the world," as the sayings go. A gift from the Polynesian gods, this atoll ticks both boxes. The result: the ultimate middle-of-nowhere experience.

By Jean-Pierre Chanial
The resort from above.

Happiness doesn’t just land in your lap. Before stepping foot on this tiny speck (20 km², with a population of fewer than 600) in the Tuamotus — one of French Polynesia’s archipelagos — you have first got a 22-hour flight from Paris to Tahiti. Then, it is another hour in the air to reach Tikehau. The endless airport queues, the layover in Los Angeles, and a brutal 12-hour time difference: you literally couldn’t make this harder to get to.

Pink like the sands of Tikehau.

Thankfully, after all that eagerness, pure bliss makes you completely forget your heavy eyelids and exhausted head. It is the delicate scent of hibiscus, the floral crowns offered to newcomers, the spotless sky of an endless summer, and the beautifully tied sarongs of the vahinés who walk like dancers. Then comes the sing-song accent that immediately treats you like an old friend. The ocean whispers tales of infinity. This breathtaking lagoon shows off every shade of green and blue. It practically begs you to dive straight in. Yes, you have arrived. The promised Eden — the blissful and carefree spirit of the Pacific islands — finally becomes real.

A beach hut, the seaside, and the recipe for pure bliss

Robinson sensation

Later on, we will confirm it all. Daily life with no schedule and no hassle — barefoot, in shorts and a t-shirt (or a “tricot,” as they call it here). The stunning pink-sand beaches, the video of Bird Island — packed with terns, frigatebirds, and boobies… Not to mention diving in the lagoon (just with a mask and a snorkel), among rays, jack fishes, bonitos, parrotfish, harmless little blacktip reef sharks, and thousands of multicoloured fish. The simple bliss of spending the day on a deserted motu — our very own Robinson sensation under the coconut trees. Certainly, we had brought a picnic and some bubbly. Then, the laid-back feel of Tuherahera, the atoll’s village. You could just leave your bike propped up outside the church, the school, or the local shop for small talk over a freezing cold Hinano. Let us come back tomorrow. Happiness really wasn’t far away.

Meeting the Locals of Tikehau.

A Relais & Châteaux Retreat

Above all, one could go on forever about the charms of Tikehau by Pearl Resorts, the island’s only star-rated hotel. A wonderful paradox: a highly sophisticated, top-tier property — a Relais & Châteaux member since July 2025 — perched on Motu Tianoa, an islet that is, by its very nature, nothing but wilderness and simplicity. Here, luxury comfort is served up on a silver platter of coral. Coconut palms catch the sea breeze. They echo the silence of dawn, the flight of noddy terns, and the gold of blazing sunsets. It is the magic of French Polynesia. To many, it is the definition of paradise.

From the Blue of the Pool to the Blue of the Pacific.

The Ultimate Hideaway

A modest boutique resort with 21 overwater bungalows and 8 beach villas — each offering 55 square metres of pure privacy — the Tikehau Pearl Beach is dedicated to preserving the serenity of an atoll many consider the ultimate hideaway. Do not disturb, please.

Tikehau from above.

Aside from its pink-sand beaches — are simply perfect for a romantic selfie — the hotel boasts the delights of a refined restaurant, Le Poreho. The catch of the day naturally takes centre stage —alongside a swimming pool perfect for mastering the art of tropical laziness. There is also a spa, where tiare and monoï oils unveil the virtues of traditional Tahitian massage. It is a centuries-old practice steeped in pure bliss, indulgence, and authenticity.

A Room with a view.

The spirit of “Mana” comes alive

Far from the madding crowd, facing an ocean that suddenly feels grander than you ever dreamed, you can feel the spirit of “Mana”. This is the spirit of Polynesia — a vision guided by the stars. It carries you on the wings of the wind. It brings you closer to the heavens and their divine guardians. Naturally, those age-old longings start to creep in. Once you have been to Tikehau, you just know you have to come back one day.

Life on stilts.

Practical Info

Fly Paris to Papeete with Air Tahiti Nui (www.airtahitinui.com). Expect to pay at least €1,600 return for economy, and around €9,000 for business class (based on May 2026 fares). From there, take an Air Tahiti flight (www.airtahiti.com) between Papeete and Tikehau, which is roughly €700 return.

Good to know: because of the 2-hour layover in Los Angeles, you will need to fill out an ESTA form to enter the US. There is a 12-hour time difference between France and French Polynesia. For more details, check with the Tahiti Tourist Board (https://www.tahititourisme.uk).

Stay at Hotel Tikehau by Pearl Resorts, from €650 a night for a double room, breakfast included (www.letikehau.com).

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