Episode 6: Hublot, Gerald Charles and IWC
In this penultimate episode, IWC steals the show with futuristic, high-tech takes on its Big Pilot's timepieces. Meanwhile, Hublot takes the Big Bang aesthetic to the next level with even bolder, more architectural designs, backed by sporting icons such as Kylian Mbappé and Usain Bolt. At the same time, Gerald Charles continues to go from strength to strength, introducing new complications while staying faithful to its distinctive shaped-watch designs. And because no major watch fair would be complete without an exclusive interview, Frank Sans C sits down with Didier Deschamps, a Hublot ambassador, who reminds us that when it comes to precision and time management, some people know exactly how to take a match into extra time — much to everyone's delight.
HUBLOT
Mastering the ‘Art of Fusion’ and maintaining its edge in an increasingly cut-throat market requires grit and relentless energy. Hublot has both in spades, as these visuals demonstrate, alongside a closer look at several timepieces that have been subtly reimagined yet remain instantly recognisable.
Big Bang Reloaded Kylian Mbappé
The Hublot Big Bang Reloaded Kylian Mbappé — the first limited edition created in collaboration with football star and brand ambassador, Kylian Mbappé.
Brand ambassador since 2018, Kylian Mbappé has, for the first time, co-created an edition of the Big Bang Reloaded named after him. Limited to just 200 pieces, this 44 mm chronograph in polished ceramic and 18-carat King Gold embodies the sporting spirit of one of the world’s most celebrated champions.
His motto ‘Trust Yourself’, is engraved on the bezel, while the largely openworked white dial offers a clear view of the numerous components of the HUB1280 manufacture self-winding chronograph calibre, complete with a polished 22-carat gold rotor. Highlights include the column wheel, the next-generation LIGA-formed clutch (noted on the dial), and the extremely openworked date disc.
Water-resistant to 100 metres, the instrument is powered by a regulating organ oscillating at 4 Hz. It is fitted with a King Gold-coloured fabric strap that can be easily changed with the ‘One Click’ system, made of King Gold-coloured fabric with a Velcro clasp and a blasted white ceramic buckle. The set is delivered in a dedicated jewellery box with an additional structured black-and-white strap fitted with a titanium deployment clasp.
€29,400
Click here for the Big Bang Reloaded Kylian MBappé Timepiece spec sheet
Big Bang Reloaded Usain Bolt Ceramic Carbon
A brand ambassador for over 15 years, this legendary runner — widely regarded as the greatest sprinter of all time — helped create this 200-piece limited edition of the hallmark Big Bang Reloaded chronograph.
Measuring 44 mm in diameter, this model is fitted with a case combining ceramic and carbon. The 18-carat yellow gold bezel is engraved with his motto, “Anything is possible, don’t think limits“, while the largely openworked black dial offers a view of key components within the HUB1280 self-winding mechanical chronograph calibre.
Delivering a 72-hour power reserve with a regulating organ oscillating at 4 Hz, this beating heart fitted with a black-treated tungsten oscillating weight, is engineered for high-precision short-time measurements, thanks to a next-generation LIGA-formed clutch visible on the dial side.
Water-resistant to 100 metres, this chronograph showcases a see-through case back adorned with a golden lightning bolt. It is worn on a King Gold fabric strap closed thanks to a Velcro and fitted with a blasted black ceramic buckle. The jewellery box also includes an additional rubber strap with a titanium deployment clasp, which can be easily swapped using the case’s integrated ‘One Click’ system.
€29,400
Click here for the Big Bang Reloaded Usain Bolt Ceramic Carbon Timepiece spec sheet
Big Bang Reloaded
This year, the Big Bang makes a major comeback. Fully redesigned, it preserves its original DNA while injecting fresh energy, enhanced mechanics, a sharper design, and a bolder identity. In its own way, this new Big Bang Reloaded carries forward the legacy of the original 2005 model and the Unico calibre, taking it into a new era.
Across the five models in this collection, the manufacture calibre takes centre stage. Designed to be more visible than ever with an integrated architecture, the 44 mm timepieces are available in Magic Gold, ceramic, and titanium; in titanium with a ceramic case back and bezel; or in black, blue, or dark green ceramic with a titanium and ceramic bezel. With a strong focus on performance and legibility, all of these timepieces are powered by a chronograph movement widely considered one of the most advanced of its generation.
This Unico calibre is made of five patented innovations: two oscillating clutches, a constant-pressure friction system for the minute counter, a “zero friction” ratchet wheel click mechanism, and a fine-tuning system for the balance wheel. Beyond showcasing the calibre’s architecture and technical complexity, this fresh construction approach brings the Unico HUB1280 calibre into the spotlight, using colours and contrasts to make its mechanisms more visible than ever.
As a result, the colour-accentuated column wheel at 6 o’clock and the dual oscillating clutch at 8 o’clock immediately draw the attention to this self-winding in-house flyback chronograph calibre. The chronograph counter at 3 o’clock has been redesigned, the date repositioned between 4 and 5 o’clock, and the flyback function highlighted by subtle colour details.
A new chronograph hand marks precision in action. Thanks to the see-through case back, a new openworked rotor highlights a cut-out ‘H’, engraved with the inscription “Hublot – Design – Manufacture”. Also visible is the regulating organ oscillating at 4 Hz, powered by the mainspring to deliver a 72-hour power reserve.
Water-resistant to 100 metres, all models are worn on colour-coordinated rubber straps that can be changed without tools thanks to the built-in “One Click” push-buttons, and are secured with ceramic and titanium deployment clasps.
Big Bang Reloaded All Black – €24,700
Big Bang Reloaded Blue Ceramic – €24,700
Big Bang Reloaded Dark Green Ceramic – €24,700
Big Bang Reloaded Magic Gold – €43,600
Big Bang Reloaded Titanium Ceramic – €23,500
Spirit of Big Bang Impact All Black
Exactly ten years after the launch of the 2016 Big Bang Impact and its fragmented motif — where intricate, fancy-cut diamonds are brought together with striking precision — Hublot translates this bold architectural design into sapphire and ceramic. For the first time in the brand’s history, Hublot has set diamonds directly into sapphire, once again pushing the boundaries of what is possible.
From black ceramic through to sapphire, whether engraved, applied or gem-set, the Spirit of Big Bang Impact is delivered in three limited editions: All Black ceramic, sapphire and osmium, and sapphire set with diamonds. It is also worth noting that, as anniversaries often provide a moment to reflect on the present, this year marks 20 years of Hublot’s iconic ‘All Black’ concept. A revolution at the time, it showed that a timepiece could express itself through contrast alone — where black takes centre stage and understated style becomes a bold statement.
The barrel-shaped Spirit of Big Bang was introduced by Hublot in 2014 as an alternative to traditional round cases for the brand’s customers, which stays however faithful to the DNA of the original Big Bang. Crafted in polished and micro-blasted black ceramic, the first iteration of the Spirit of Big Bang Impact — water-resistant to 100 metres — plays on Hublot’s “invisible visibility”, uncovering its texture through a mix of polished and micro-blasted finishes in a 100-piece limited edition. With its interplay of tonal shades, subtle reflections and material innovation, the All Black is mesmerising.
In the Spirit of Big Bang Impact, All Black ceramic proves that invisibility can be striking. This shaped reference is also suggested in a 30-piece run fitted with a see-through synthetic sapphire case, a 42 mm see-through rubber strap with the “One Click” system, and a fragmented dial with elements made of osmium — one of the rarest materials on earth. Last but not least, this stealthy timepiece in synthetic sapphire, which is water-resistant to 50 metres just like the previously mentioned version, is limited to only 20 pieces.
Indeed, its sapphire bezel is set with 54 fancy-cut diamonds, while the dial is set with 91 fancy-cut diamonds arranged like fragments. At the heart of these three editions, the skeletonised self-winding HUB1770 calibre, delivering a 50-hour power reserve, drives an openworked display which highlights the moonphase indicator at 6 o’clock and a large date window at 1 o’clock. This calibre does not merely sit beneath the dial; it actively contributes to the striking visual effect, as you set your eyes on the timepiece.
Click here for the Spirit of Big Bang Impact All Black Timepiece spec sheet – €33,100
Click here for the Spirit of Big Bang Impact Sapphire Timepiece spec sheet – €112,000
Click here for the Spirit of Big Bang Impact Sapphire Jewellery Timepiece spec sheet– €532,000
Détails techniques :
Technical specifications:
Case:
Polished sapphire crystal
“One-Click” system
Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective treatment
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 15.50 mm
Water Resistance: 50 m / 5 ATM
Case back: Polished sapphire crystal and sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Dial: Appliqués set with 91 fancy-cut diamonds
Bezel: Polished sapphire crystal set with 54 fancy-cut diamonds
Screws: 6 H-shaped titanium screws
Calibre:
HUB1770 self-winding skeleton calibre with moonphase
Oscillating Weight: anthracite ruthenium-plated satin-finished tungsten, Hublot design
Escapement: Swiss lever escapement
Number of Components: 288
Rubies: 27
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Power Reserve: roughly 50 hours
Strap and Clasp:
White structured lined rubber straps
Titanium deployment clasp
Big Bang Impact One Million
The 45 mm Big Bang Impact One Million in polished 18-carat white gold is set with 323 baguette-cut diamonds across the case and case back, 72 baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel, and 75 fancy-cut diamonds on the dial. Together, they form the hallmark Impact motif, comprising a total of 470 diamonds.
The Big Bang Impact One Million continues Hublot’s decade-long tradition of expressing its bold spirit through radical designs that seamlessly unite haute horlogerie and haute joaillerie, thanks to daring technical achievements. This year, Hublot pays tribute to that heritage with a distinctly contemporary twist.
Crafted in 18-carat white gold with a 45 mm diameter, the Big Bang Impact One Million features a case set with alternating baguette-cut and fancy-cut diamonds, totalling 44.6 carats. The timepiece required 323 baguette-cut diamonds across the case and case back, 72 baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel and 75 fancy-cut diamonds on the dial. Together, they map out the hallmark Impact motif, bringing the total to 470 diamonds. The result is a radiant composition resembling a fiery vortex swirling around the tourbillon. Invisible and bezel-setting techniques combine to create a striking sense of three-dimensional depth.
For only the second time in the brand’s history, following the 2024 Murakami edition, the flying tourbillon takes centre stage on the dial, further enhancing the visual impact and captivating power of this regulating organ. This mesmerising timepiece is driven by the manufacture HUB9015 hand-wound mechanical calibre, delivering a 120-hour (5-day) power reserve. Requiring hundreds of hours of setting, the timepiece is paired with a black alligator leather and rubber strap, secured to the wrist by an 18-carat white gold and black-plated titanium deployment clasp set with 30 baguette-cut diamonds.
€1,181,000
Technical Specifications:
Case:
Polished 18-carat white gold
Set with 323 baguette-cut diamonds
“One-Click” system
Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire
Diameter: 45 mm
Thickness: 15.80 mm
Water Resistance: 30 m / 3 ATM
Case back: Polished 18-carat white gold and anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Bezel: Polished 18-carat white gold set with 72 baguette-cut diamonds
Dial: Polished 18-carat white gold – “Impact” motif, set with 75 fancy-cut diamonds
Calibre:
HUB9015 manual-winding Tourbillon
Escapement: Tourbillon escapement
Number of Components: 236
Rubies: 25
Frequency (Hz): 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
Power Reserve: roughly 120 hours
Winding: Via a dedicated stylus
Strap and Clasp:
Black rubber and black alligator leather straps
18-carat white gold and black-plated titanium
Deployment clasp
Set with 30 baguette-cut diamonds
IWC
Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Ceralume®
No need for hyperbole when it comes to this watch. Its jaw-dropping features left everyone who got their hands on it during the Watches and Wonders presentations utterly spellbound. It is fair to say that nothing quite prepares you for its sheer brilliance. Provided there is sufficient ambient light to charge the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Ceralume®, it puts on a striking glow once darkness falls.
This generous 46.5mm timepiece, adorned with white ceramic, keeps its cards close to its chest as it is paired with this equally pristine dial. Alongside the time, it is fitted with a perpetual calendar (accurate until 2100), displaying the date, day, month, four-digit year and a perpetual moon-phase indication for both hemispheres. Limited to just 250 pieces, the timepiece also features a front sapphire crystal engineered to withstand sudden drops in air pressure, as well as a see-through sapphire case back. This allows watch enthusiasts to admire the finishes of the in-house self-winding calibre, which delivers a 7-day power reserve.
Visible through the case back is the regulating organ oscillating at 4 Hz, along with a specific oscillating weight, adorned with a white Ceralume® signature emblem. The whole assembly is paired with a matching white rubber strap which is just as luminescent as the rest of the piece. Only the folding clasp remains dark in the shadows. That is why, in order to appreciate its most striking feature, you either have to wait for nightfall or suddenly flick off the lights once it is on your wrist. And we do mean on your wrist — the sheer impact of its sudden glow is so intense that if you were just holding it, you might genuinely drop it in shock. Even experts who thought they had seen it all admitted they were completely blown away by its ability to create the magic of light. Ultimately, this kind of technological marvel will hit all the right notes for anyone who loves the timepieces designed to turn heads.
€77,300
Click here for the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Ceralume® spec sheet
Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar IWC-ProSet®
Just like the original mechanism craftec by Kurt Klaus, the ProSet Perpetual Calendar, part of this Big Pilot’s Watch automatically accounts for the differing lengths of the months and adds a leap day every four years. While the dial retains its familiar layout —displaying the time alongside calendar information for the day, date, month, 4-digit year, and perpetual moon phases for the Northern and Southern hemispheres — the internal mechanics have been completely reimagined.
The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ProSet “Le Petit Prince” combines a 42 mm stainless steel case with a five-link stainless steel bracelet fitted with the EasX-CHANGE® system.
This complication relies entirely on an innovative gear train, showcasing multiple layers of functionality and flexible fingers that can be deployed and retracted as required. This brand-new approach allows the calendar to be adjusted both forwards and backwards from a single position of the screw-down crown, thanks to a patented mechanism that changes the displays in a precise day-by-day sequence. While the timepiece does come in three different versions, we will be focusing on the steel ‘Le Petit Prince’ Edition (IW29601) — paired with a blue dial and an engraved indication on the case back, which is 14mm thick — as well as the red gold version, which looks absolutely stunning with its olive green dial.
Both of these references measure 42mm in diameter by 14mm thick, and boast a water-resistance to 100 metres. They are powered by the in-house, self-winding mechanical calibre 82665, paired with the Pellaton system. Visible thanks to the see-through case back, it showcases an oscillating weight finished with care, and which winds the mainspring to deliver a 60-hour power reserve, alongside a regulating organ beating at 4 Hertz (28,800 vibrations per hour). Both timepieces, fitted with this user-friendly perpetual calendar, come on different bracelet options. The steel model is featured on a steel bracelet paired with the EasX-CHANGE® system, and comes with an additional blue rubber strap in the jewellery box. Meanwhile, the 18-carat red gold version is a more understated take on an olive green buffalo leather strap.
€38,300
Click here for the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ProSet Le Petit Prince spec sheet
Pilot’s Watch Venturer Vertical Drive
This next-generation reference has been designed and engineered to meet the requirements of human spaceflight and to refine how time is measured in space. The timepiece has been optimised for use by astronauts wearing spacesuits and gloves.
To ensure easy grip and adjustment, all the watch’s functions are operated via an innovative, patent-pending rotating bezel system, making a traditional crown completely redundant. A rocker switch on the side of the case middle allows the wearer to flick between functions, such as winding the movement or setting the home and mission times. The case of the Pilot’s Watch Venturer Vertical Drive is crafted from white zirconium oxide ceramic and Ceratanium® (used for the bezel and case back), both lightweight materials which ensure outstanding resistance to scratches and temperature fluctuations. This timepiece was developed by IWC in partnership with VAST, a company specialised in the development of next-generation space stations.
This company put this tool watch through rigorous testing, certifying it for integration into Haven-1, which is set to become the world’s first private space station. Vintage timepiece enthusiasts will undoubtedly spot a striking resemblance between this futuristic timepiece and the well-known Harwood — one of the first self-winding watches ever crafted, introduced by an English watchmaker in the early 1930s. Much like the Venturer Vertical Drive, it was wound and set via the bezel. This tool watch is powered by the IWC-manufactured calibre 32722, boasting a 120-hour power reserve regulated by an oscillating system beating at 4 Hertz (28,800 vibrations per hour).
Water-resistant to 100 metres, it is built to withstand the vacuum of deep space and delivers excellent legibility thanks to its understated black dial. Fitted with a stop-seconds for precise time setting, this timepiece, built to go the distance, comes on a white rubber strap and is secured to the wrist with a strap buckle machined from Ceratanium®.
€28,500
Click here for the Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive spec sheet
GERALD CHARLES
The Gerald Charles brand enters a brand-new era, stepping into the world of high complications with the launch of the Masterlink Perpetual Calendar timepiece, fitted with an in-house calibre, alongside an absolutely elegant women’s timepiece.
Masterlink Perpetual Calendar
The independent watchmaker, founded by the legendary designer Gérald Charles Genta, is pleased to unveil the Masterlink, a new timepiece driven by an in-house calibre featuring a perpetual calendar complication. Crucially, this movement was developed entirely in-house. Breaking with tradition, it is not round like most of its counterparts, but takes on an asymmetrical form that has been designed to fit perfectly within the shaped case. It is all a matter of harmony — a seamless symbiosis between the exterior and the movement inside that enhances the emotional connection felt the moment the owner slips this watchmaking wonder onto their wrist.
The brand speaks of symbiosis because this seamless integration is precisely what gives the timepiece its aesthetic and functional balance. For the 40 mm × 40 mm Grade 5 titanium case of the Masterlink Perpetual Calendar, the choice made was to return to a decorative technique developed by Gérald Charles, introduced last year, and known as “Darkblast®”. Applied to the bezel and the central link of the watch’s bracelet, this process is an advanced method of sandblasting and involves a specialised treatment with a closely guarded formula. Beyond darkening the surface and making it scratch-resistant, the technique helps harden the material while giving it a soft, velvety feel — almost akin to rubber.
Depending on the version, the case — comprising 33 components — is either fitted with a smoky grey dial (featuring a radiating gradient effect) or crafted from see-through synthetic sapphire, revealing the usually hidden components of the perpetual calendar, within the Maestro movement. This ultra-thin mechanical calibre is self-winding, powered by a micro-rotor. It delivers a 50-hour power reserve and operates at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour). Bearing the reference GCA11000, the movement features a perpetual calendar complication which, in addition to displaying the time, shows the day, date (in a large window encircling the moon phase indicator), month, leap year cycle, and a realistic moon phase indication.
On the reverse side of the movement, the finishes are details reminiscent of the Rue du Mont-Blanc, while the Côtes de Genève treatments depicts the ripples of Lake Geneva. Notably, two push-pieces are integrated into the left side of the case and two on the right for adjusting the calendar and moon phases. These timepieces, water-resistant to 100 metres, highlighting an instantly recognisable design with a square knurled crown, are worn on a beautiful titanium bracelet with a central link also treated with Darkblast®. It fastens securely with a double-folding clasp with safety push-buttons.
Black Dial – CHF 68,100 (incl. VAT)
Skeleton Version – CHF 75,700 (incl. VAT)
Click here for the Masterlink Perpetual Calendar spec sheet
Mini Maestro
This latest release, designed for those who appreciate creative, distinctive watchmaking, marks the dawn of a new era for the brand Gerald Charles. Born from a dream, its design brings a poetic vision to life, one in which true elegance is endless. Inspired by the GC58 unique piece — created in 2006 and preserved in the brand’s Geneva museum — the Mini Maestro is now available in Grade 5 titanium with a 30mm diameter. The dials come in three refined shades: black, ice blue, and pink. Water-resistant to 50 metres, it is powered by a quartz calibre boasting a maintenance-free, 6-year battery life. Versatile and modern, this lightweight wonder features the Ergon Teq® design, an exclusive engineering solution optimised for ultimate wrist comfort.
The timepiece shimmers across the bezel and dial thanks to its refined diamond setting. The bezel is illuminated by 54 diamonds totalling 0.53 carats, lending the timepiece an elegant sparkle, never meant to show off. The Clous de Paris motif — inspired by classical architecture and deeply rooted in traditional watchmaking — extends beyond the dial and into the strap design, creating a subtle dialogue of textures.
An in-house developed, quick-release fastening system allows the wearer to change the bracelet easily and by himself or herself. With over ten colourways available in both rubber and leather, the Mini Maestro becomes an expression of mood, occasion, and individuality — a timepiece that transforms as naturally as the woman wearing it. A personal tribute to Gérald Charles’s creative legacy, this timepiece is fitted with a sculpted buckle that mirrors the case, highlighting just how precious every detail is.
CHF 10,800 (incl. VAT)
Click here for the Mini Maestro spec sheet
THE GERALD CHARLES WATCH WEBSITE
WATCHES FEATURED IN THE VOX POPS WITH PAUL MIQUEL, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF OF THE GOOD LIFE AND JUDIKAËL HIREL, JOURNALIST AT LE FIGARO.
Hublot Big Bang Reloaded Kylian Mbappé – €29,400
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