Episode 5: Chanel, Panerai and Trilobe
In this fifth instalment, Chanel, Panerai and Trilobe showcase three fiercely distinct worlds: Chanel leans into pure creativity and style, Panerai doubles down on its military tool-watch heritage, while Trilobe champions a contemporary and technical take on French haute horlogerie. Three brands, three powerful identities, all perfectly capturing the buzz of the Geneva watch fair. Now, while the show itself focuses solely on the chess set, we couldn't resist giving you a sneak peek at the new watch releases. Don't worry, these will for sure be featured in our upcoming episode of “Frank sans C's Chanel” special!
CHANEL
The Chessboard: The Power of the Unique
Luxury is a ruthless world in which success depends on staying one step ahead and on the ability to always surprise customers who think they have seen it all. With this one-off chessboard, Chanel has delivered checkmate to its rivals. The brand has undoubtedly pulled out all the stops, combining exceptional materials to create a piece that genuinely turns heads.
The base is hewn from obsidian, a glass-like volcanic stone, and surmounted by a chequerboard of alternating black and white high-performance ceramic squares. Measuring 37.9 cm across, the board is framed by a border set with 516 diamonds, totalling almost 16 carats. For the complete set, including the chessmen, 9,236 diamonds were used in total, (approximately 111 carats). The black pieces are made from high-performance black ceramic, with selected pieces enhanced by diamonds, while the white pieces are crafted from white gold and are also set with diamonds.
The Kings are depicted as lions — Mademoiselle Chanel’s iconic animal — while Gabrielle Chanel herself features as the Queen in both the black and white sets. Meticulously carved, each Queen houses a quartz watch movement, with the dial discreetly integrated into their base. In a witty nod, the Rooks replicate the Vendôme Column at the heart of the renowned square, while the Bishops take the form of dressmakers’ busts.
Price upon request – Already sold
Since the 1987 launch of the Première watch, Chanel has included timepieces in its collections. Back then, they were conceived as fashion accessories or jewellery that happened to tell the time. Since the turn of the millennium, however — and particularly following the debut of the iconic J12 in 2000 — the brand founded by Mademoiselle Chanel has experienced exponential growth, to the point where it can now be regarded as a watchmaker in its own right. Here are its main lineups for 2026. Place your bets!
BOY·FRIEND Coco Game Timepiece: The Wild Card
First introduced in 2015, the BOY·FRIEND lineup immediately won over watch enthusiasts. This year, the shape watch returns in black-coated steel. Offered as a limited edition, with refined proportions — 34.6 mm in length, 26.7 mm in width and 7.3 mm thick — its distinctive dial is sure to turn heads.
Applied as a decal to the pure white dial of the BOY·FRIEND watch, Gabrielle Chanel lends her instantly recognisable presence to the Queen of Hearts.
Pure white, the dial depicts Gabrielle Chanel in a subtly stylised yet realistic illustration inspired by the Queen of Hearts on a playing card. She is shown with her signature black-trimmed tweed suit, a boater hat and layers of pearl necklaces. Delicate in execution, the motif is enhanced by two gold-coloured heart-shaped metal appliqués set against the black-and-white background. The bezel of this hours-and-minutes timepiece is crafted from black-treated steel and framed by a fine white lacquer line, while the solid case back bears the inscription “Limited Edition”. Water-resistant to 30 metres, this timepiece, fitted with a white calfskin leather strap with black patent-leather trim and secured by a pin buckle, is powered by a high-precision Swiss-made quartz movement.
€7,500
Technical Specifications
Black-coated steel case
Black-coated steel case back engraved with “LIMITED EDITION”
Black-coated steel bezel with white lacquer finish
Playing-card-inspired dial featuring a decal portrait of Mademoiselle
Black-coated steel crown set with a black spinel cabochon
Interchangeable white calfskin bracelet with black patent leather trim, black leather lining and black-coated steel pin buckle
High-precision quartz movement
Functions: hours and minutes
Water resistance: 30 metres
Dimensions: 34.6 × 26.7 × 7.3 mm
Première Coco Game Timepiece: Charming Charms
Playful and crafted in a limited-edition run, this jewellery watch invites you to toy with time. Gracing the wrist, the mini Première is adorned with charms that spell out C-H-A-N-E-L—a subtle nod to a well-known word game. Six delicate charms hang alongside the case from a black-coated steel chain bracelet, interwoven with a white calfskin leather ribbon. Graceful in motion, this exquisite timepiece moves seamlessly with its wearer, while two slender hands mark the passing hours. Water-resistant to 30 metres for everyday ease, it is powered by a high-precision quartz movement.
€7,850
Technical Specifications:
Black-coated steel case
Black-coated steel case back engraved with “LIMITED EDITION”
Black lacquer dial
Black-coated steel chain bracelet interwoven with a white calfskin leather ribbon
“CHANEL” letter charms in black-coated steel, white lacquer and sapphire crystal
High-precision quartz movement
Functions: hours, minutes
Water resistance: 30 metres
Sizes: S, M, L
Dimensions: 19.7 × 15.2 × 7.5 mm
Chanel J12 Lineup: Catching the Wind
First introduced in 2000, the Chanel J12 lineup never stops reinventing itself; here is the proof.
J12 Superleggera Calibre 12.1 42 mm: Design at Full Throttle
Unveiled in 2005, the original J12 Superleggera stood out for its unmistakably automotive-inspired design and pioneering use of ceramic. Masculine and visually striking, the new J12 Superleggera, powered by the Calibre 12.1 movement, stays true to that spirit, revisiting the design codes and distinctive signature that defined the success of the original model.
The 42 mm diameter case is crafted from highly resistant matt ceramic and black-coated steel. It is fitted with a unidirectional rotating bezel in black-coated steel and a hardened steel ring for enhanced scratch resistance. The dial is finished in black lacquer, with a circular satin-brushed centre, and it is snailed on the outer track. Water-resistant to 200 metres, the caseband houses the Manufacture Calibre 12.1, a self-winding mechanical movement.
Certified as a chronometer by the COSC, this timepiece displays the hours, minutes and seconds with a central second hand, alongside a large window where the date is indicated by a red pointer. Visible thanks to the see-through case back, the movement delivers a generous 70-hour power reserve. Decidedly sporty-chic, the piece is presented on a matt black ceramic bracelet with a vertical satin-brushed finish on the centre links, secured by a 3-blade folding clasp.
€12,900
Technical Specifications:
Matt black high-resistance ceramic case and steel with black coating
Sapphire case back
Unidirectional rotating bezel in black-coated steel with hardened steel ring
Black lacquered dial with a circular satin-brushed finish at the centre, snailed on the outer track
Screw-down steel crown with matt black high-resistance ceramic cabochon centre links, polished intermediate links, and a triple-folding steel clasp
Calibre 12.1: Manufacture* self-winding movement with black-coated oscillating weight, COSC chronometer certified
Power reserve: roughly 70 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date
Water-resistant to 200 metres
Diameter: 42 mm
*Manufacture self-winding movement produced by Swiss manufacture Kenissi, of which CHANEL is a co-owner.
J12 Golden Black Calibre 12.1 Timepiece: Stolen Moments
This year, the CHANEL Watch Creation Studio explores contrasts with a limited-edition duo of 28 mm and 42 mm timepieces, with yellow gold-plated hour markers.
These subtle details bring a brilliant touch to the case, which is paired with a black ceramic bracelet in either a polished or matt finish. For the mini model, this J12 combines a fixed blackened steel bezel and a black-lacquered sapphire ring with gold metallisation, powered by a high-precision quartz movement. The 42 mm version, by contrast, boasts a unidirectional rotating bezel, echoing the design codes of the smaller model. It is powered by the Calibre 12.1 self-winding Manufacture movement by Kenissi, the Swiss manufacturer co-owned by CHANEL. As a final touch, the oscillating weight — visible through the case back, which is water-resistant to 200 metres — is finished to match the yellow gold-plated indices.
In matt black ceramic and steel – 42mm: €11,400
In black ceramic and steel – 28mm: €6,300
The J12 28mm diameter Timepiece: Small Is Beautiful
This is no mere downsized version of the J12; it is the very essence of Chanel. A piece of jewellery by nature, this model is available in black or white, on either a highly resistant ceramic or a rubber bracelet. A steel bezel and a dial, lacquered with the colour of the case band, highlight the 28mm highly resistant black or white ceramic case. Powered by high-precision, Swiss-made quartz movements, these exquisite timepieces are feminine above all — and water-resistant to 30 metres, ensuring they can be worn seamlessly every day, anywhere in the world.
€4,700
Technical specifications:
High-resistance black ceramic and steel case
Steel case back
Fixed steel bezel with black high-resistance ceramic ring
Black lacquered dial
Non-screw-down steel crown with black high-resistance ceramic cabochon
Black high-resistance ceramic bracelet with triple folding steel clasp
High-precision quartz movement
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Water resistance: 30 metres
Diameter: 28 mm
PANERAI
Originally deployed by the Italian Navy’s frogmen in the late 1930s and worn long after the Second World War, Panerai watches have earned a formidable reputation for robustness and reliability. They are highly sought-after by a dedicated community of enthusiasts known in the trade as the ‘Paneristi’, who value watchmaking instruments dedicated to a precise function for high-risk missions. Often regarded as the ultimate adventure timepieces, these models continue to nurture their legend, evolving while remaining entirely true to their heritage.
Luminor 8 Giorni PAM01733: Military Patina
Paying tribute to the 1960s Luminor 47, Florentine watchmaker Panerai has this year introduced a 44mm version in a “Brunito” finish — a patinated effect designed to evoke the look of natural wear. To achieve this, the steel case is first treated with a black PVD coating before being hand-distressed using in-house techniques that replicate the signs of everyday use. The downsized case has been meticulously designed to preserve the watch’s visual balance, while a see-through case back reveals the hand-wound mechanical movement. This three-quarter plate calibre features a single wheel-train bridge, which has also been given a raw aesthetic through horizontal brushing. This movement, known as the P.5000, was chosen for this model: a nod to the historical Angelus SF240 calibre. Originally housed in the GPF 2/56 models produced from the mid-1950s onwards, it boasted a 200-hour power reserve. By incorporating the P.5000, the PAM 1733 proudly continues the tradition of military timepieces delivering an eight-day power reserve. With an anthracite sandwich dial, this model is water-resistant to 300 metres and comes on a light brown calfskin leather strap, secured to the wrist by a classic, wide pin buckle: a matching patinated finish. The jewellery box also includes an alternative black rubber strap, ideal for maritime use.
€11,000
Click here for the Luminor 8 Giorni PAM01733 Timepiece spec sheet
Luminor Destro: Just Right for Left-Handers
This 44 mm version of the Luminor has been crafted with left-handers in mind. No artificially aged finish here; instead, the watch is left to develop its own natural patina over time — something that is bound to happen given the fully polished steel case and bezel. The only visual contrast comes from the satin-finished components of the crown-protecting bridge, which, in keeping with the model’s history, sits on the left side of the case. Left-handers will appreciate a watch that perfectly suits their usual way of wearing one, while right-handers will welcome the fact that the crown-protecting bridge faces inwards along the arm, where it is better shielded from knocks. Purists will be pleased to view the hand-wound P.6000 mechanical calibre through the sapphire case back. Measuring 15½ lignes and delivering a 3-day power reserve, they will appreciate its horizontally brushed finish, 19 rubies, and a regulating organ beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour. Featuring a matt blue grained sandwich dial, this timepiece is water-resistant to 300 metres and comes fitted with a light brown calfskin bracelet secured by a trapezoidal pin buckle. Also included in the presentation box is an additional blue rubber bracelet.
€8,900
Click here for the Luminor Destro PAM01732 Timepiece spec sheet
Luminor PAM01731: Right on Track
The manufacturer also offers a 44mm steel Luminor powered by the 15½-ligne P.6000 calibre, delivering approximately a 3-day power reserve. Water-resistant to 300 metres, it features a see-through case back, a crown and crown-protecting bridge positioned on the right-hand side, and a classic matt-grained sandwich dial in tobacco brown. Just like the left-handed model, the PAM01731 reference is worn on a brown calfskin strap, and the jewellery box includes a spare strap in dark brown rubber.
€8,900
Click here for the Luminor Destro PAM01731 Timepiece spec sheet
Luminor PAM01735 47 mm: Back to Roots
There is no point in beating around the bush — if you could keep only one, this might well be it. Presented in polished steel with a 47 mm case diameter, it retains its original proportions and boasts a brushed crown-protecting bridge. A visually striking Luminor reference, distinguished by its matt, grained ivory dial.
More civilian than military in this guise, it is powered by the hand-wound P.3000 calibre, a movement measuring 16½ lignes. Visible thanks to the see-through sapphire crystal case back, the movement showcases meticulous finishing and reveals its 21 rubies, along with a regulating organ, with a Glucydur balance wheel oscillating at 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour).
Boasting a 3-day power reserve thanks to its twin barrels, this understated and ultimately rather urban-chic wonder comes on a calfskin leather strap. It can also be worn on the black rubber strap included in the jewellery box, which, just like the others, contains a tool to change the strap yourself.
€12,100
Click here for the Luminor PAM01735 Timepiece spec sheet
TRILOBE
The young watchmaker, Trilobe, is French — and more specifically, Parisian. Deeply attached to its cultural roots, the brand subtly plays on this identity right down to the names of its models. Trilobe is also proud to be an independent entity capable of offering its own calibres; these are developed in-house, manufactured in its workshops in the Paris region, and assembled high above the rooftops of the City of Light, offering breathtaking view of the dome of the Opéra Garnier.
The Trente-Deux Lineup: Expanding the Horizons
A few months after the launch of the Trente-Deux lineup — named after the carriage entrance number through which one accesses the workshops — the brand presents various iterations of the reference destined to become its flagship collection. In total, three steel models measuring 39.5 mm in diameter on steel bracelets are adorned with new dial colours, each more attractive than the last, as all were carefully chosen to be simultaneously striking, understated, and almost classic.
The blue-sunbrushed edition will have its devotees, as will the anthracite-sunbrushed and the silver-sunbrushed ones. Our big standout, though, is the forest green variant, which, at once soft and assertive, lends the model a sense of depth while highlighting its unique character. It is also worth turning this timepiece over to impress everyone. While the time display — based on a succession of concentric rings — is both original and appealing, the next-generation calibre named X-Nihilo, Trilobe’s first in-house movement, will become centre stage.
There is no denying it has a certain panache. With this original design and that geometric structure which reveals only the essentials: the highly graphic oscillating weight, the case enclosing the gear train, and the regulating organ, which sits almost right at the centre of mainplate, which has been gold-plated in the traditional way. Water-resistant to 50 metres, this model — like its counterparts — is fitted with a steel bracelet and a double-folding clasp, and is also available with a matching rubber strap.
On a green rubber strap – €42,600
On a 316L stainless steel bracelet – €21,000
Click here for Trente-Deux Sunray Green Rose-Gold Timepiece spec sheet
Trilobe Trente-Deux Secret: The Magic of Astronomy
“It would have been a shame not to harness what science has to offer to create entirely unique timepieces,” explained Gautier Massonneau at Watches and Wonders. The Trente-Deux Secret freezes a snapshot of the starry sky in time, capturing the exact celestial view from any chosen location and date for eternity. This outstanding feat of watchmaking innovation is achieved using a bespoke algorithm mapping more than 1,600 constellations.
The software relies on the work of Belgian astronomer Jean Meeus, a world-renowned authority on highly complex astronomical calculations. Once each dial is meticulously hand-finished, the magic comes alive; the midnight-blue background reveals its unique story to the person for whom that special date matters most. With a 39.5mm diameter, this timepiece — like all models in the Trente-Deux lineup — is powered by the all-new X-Nihilo in-house self-winding mechanical movement, which boasts a 42-hour power reserve and an oscillating frequency of 4 Hz.
€25,800
Click here for the technical specifications of the Trente-Deux Secret
Don’t miss out! Coming in July!!!!
WATCHES PRESENTED IN THE VOX POPS WITH JEAN LASSAUSSOIS (from the Les Montres – Les Bijoux boutique), watch consultant and specialist ERIC DUMATIN, Blackdress agency founder CHANTAL GEMAYEL, and IRIS KUHN-SPOGAT, journalist for Bilanz.ch (‘Newsletter’ section).
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