After the transition to the third millenium, a new generation of designers at the head of major brands ateliers has emphasised the need to push the boundaries of watch decoration. Jewellers known for their groundbreaking watchmaking transformations dit it first. They left the “good tone” classicism of the profession to try original experiments to enrich the graphic offer.
Clearly, a synthetic lacquer dial will never display the deep reflections of a dial designed in genuine Japanese lacquer by a master of the craft.
Some Maisons, such as Vacheron Constantin and Seiko, have managed to capture the poetry of this living material. They have created timepieces mostly appreciated for the tiny frames they display, which measure barely four-square centimetres. Grand Seiko has mastered in creating dials that evoke the nature of the Japanese mountains. Whether it is trees in autumn or snow in winter. Other Maisons have expressed the richness of nature by creating hard stones dials. Piaget made it their specialty in the seventies and other Maisons followed, such as Corum, Cartier, Bulgaria and Dior.
After exploring all the possibilities with palaeolithic materials, as Louis Moinet did (mammoth ivory, dinosaur fossil elements), some Maisons, like Rolex, decided to explore other universes. And decided to cut out the dials for their luxury watches in slices of metallic meteorites.
Ever since, the brands have been looking for original materials to create a buzz. Of course, the most eco-friendly of them have recently tried offering to their target public dials made of recycled fishnets. But given the size of the object, their action seems as derisory as it is demagogic.
Whereas the smartest of them have decided to install tiny solar panels on their dials to keep the quartz calibres running, like Cartier (read our article Cartier Tank Must SolarBeat, you must have it!) or Casio. While others have called artists to create small series of dials as art objects. Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, Hermès, and to a lesser extent Dior or Bvlgari, have made their specialty of dials adorned with wood marquetry, straw, mosaics, or paintings made of feathers.
Every year, these international brands manage to surprise us, expressing a new vision of art on a few cubic centimetres. Some of them use ronde-bosse or scrimshaw engraving. While others line the dials with a fraction of a real work of art, with leather, precious fabric. But still, most often, diamonds or coloured stones.
They have totally mastered the ancient technique of cloisonné enamel, which Vincent Daveau thoroughly explained in his previous article.
Expressing the ultra-technical
True, this is all aesthetically beautiful. But it did not solve the problem of brands that wanted to stand out at the turn of the century. Indeed, their goal was to answer the desires of amateurs. Those who wanted to picture themselves in the future with a mechanical watch on their wrist. And dials were the most appropriate medium to express that. So the most determined of the Maisons manufactured them very early in innovative materials such as carbon fiber.
In reality, given the difficulty of producing them at a decent price, many have simply affixed a varnish-coated carbon print on the brass disc. Well, who would try to dissemble everything just to check if it was real fibre and not a 3D imitation?
Carbon inspired others who were in search of originality to go looking for new ways to express modernity. Some decided to use carbon nanotubes, while others explored honeycomb dials. Even if a small number of contemporary dials still bear silicon, most watchmakers like the Pequignet Manufacture prefer more noble materials. Such as smoked or sanded sapphire crystal.
As for Seiko, the brand has already offered their aficionados the velvety softness of Arita ware on their Presage watch. And Omega has been producing high-tech ceramic dials for some time now. Which is a technology that ensures the enamel will last a long time and guarantees a greater resistance for their sports watches. Surprisingly enough, no one has mentioned dials made with a 3D machine for now. In fact, they may already exist, just like with Panerai and their sintered titanium cases. But those who manage the communication teams of the brands remain ignorant to questions and never say a word about their existence.
Well, those same managers are much more talkative when it comes to reveal watches bearing mechanisms whose embedded complications have an action on the dial. Those pieces draw the attention for being unique and some Maisons have made it their specialty. For example, the manufactures Ulysse Nardin and Blancpain, or the jewellery Maison Van Cleef & Arpels, Bvlgari or the independent watchmaker Christophe Claret. All of them unveil frequently fine watchmaking pieces displaying playful (Bvlgari and Genta Mickey), biblical, technical (Franck Muller and the Crazy Hours) or fun (Blancpain and Ulysse Nardin) sketches that no lover of beautiful things could ignore.
Among the incredible kinetic feat on the dials, connoisseurs regularly cite pieces like the Metamorphosis by Montblanc or the Reverso Répétition Minutes à rideau by Jaeger-LeCoultre as references of the genre. To conclude this subject, which was deliberately exhaustive, we need to mention dials that are made up of the back of the mechanical movement’s plate and whose visible components are the animation.
And since they occupy an ever-increasing share of the watchmaking market, it is important to highlight the presence of digital dials of the new connected timepieces. They can change according to the desires of their owners, like the TAG Heuer Connected watches, and offer a multitude of faces and features, which traditional watchmakers can only dream about. Even more, they manage to imitate them graphically with talent, just like Moser & Cie does…
The ORIS SUN WUKONG ARTIST EDITION
Special mention for the dial of the new Sun Wukong Artist Edition by Oris, which is very atypical. Created in collaboration with the Shanghai Animation Film Studio Co, it is produced in cloisonné enamel, which is a first for the Swiss watchmaker. Nested inside the brand’s signature model (the Aquis Calibre 400), it displays a scene from the famous Chinese animated movie The Monkey King: Uproar in Heaven, in which the hero Sun Wukong arrives in front of the Dragon King’s palace.
In 2021, Oris issued a version of Sun Wukong of 2,000 pieces. And now the arrival of a second model is the logical consequence, the timepiece is limited to 72 pieces, a number that was not chosen at random but corresponds to the number of forms in which the magical and mythical Chinese character can appear.
Entirely made and painted by hand, which makes each piece unique, this miniature work of art requires up to three days of work to be finished.
Price: €23,500 – www.oris.ch