Watches and Wonders 2024: Episode #3

All good things come in three! The Watches and Wonders episode 3 is full of gems. Time stops and takes a new dimension with IWC, Patek Philippe and Frédérique Constant new watches.

By Vincent Daveau

Classic designs are what seems to be the staple of the watchmaking world. Yet, during Watches and Wonders 2024 we discovered pieces that if sober in appearance where nonetheless deeply reimagined.

IWC, Portugieser Eternal Calendar, the beauty of eternity

The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar introduced during Watches and Wonders 2024.

Based in Schaffhausen in Alemannic Switzerland, the IWC manufacture introduced their perpetual calendar – work of the engineer Kurt Klaus – almost forty years ago. Strong from this expertise, the manufacture outstrips once again this year the boundaries of watchmaking by revealing its first secular perpetual calendar. This rare complication distinguishes the different duration of months and adds a leap day every four year. This sophisticated mechanism takes into account the complex Gregorian calendar’s leap year exception rules introduced in 1582.

With a clear view on the different displays the glass dial has been crafted following a complex process.

A new cog allows the counting over 400 years guarantying that the calendar automatically skips three leap years every four centuries. The next one to be skipped is 2100. The 44.4 mm platinum watch adorns a fascinating glass dial protected by a double glace box and is equipped with an ultra-precise moon phase aperture.

The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar offers an unprecedented accuracy with its moon phase display.

Thanks to a new reduction gear the Double Moon™ display will only deviate from the moon’s actual orbit by one day after 45,000,000 years.  A record! The Portugieser Eternal Calendar has a water resistance rated to 50 meters and is fitted on a black alligator leather strap crafted by Santoni.

€172,000 (the price may vary depending on Swiss franc and raw materials quotation)

Click here to read the full IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar technical sheet.



Classic Date Manufacture, timeless elegance

Smart and timeless the Classic Date Manufacture from Frédérique Constant features a steel 40 mm case.

Resized to 40 mm instead of the previous 42 mm, this steel watch with its onion-type crown is the signature of the young manufacture based in Plan-les-Ouates near Geneva. This model is powered by a new-generation self-winding movement called FC-706. The watch beats at a rate of 4 Hertz and has a barrel equipped with a more powerful spring which ensures a 72 hours power reserve. The crystal case back reveals the reimagined finishes with beading and fan-shaped “côtes de Genève”. With its 5 years warranty this new model has three dial variations with applied hours markers and the date displayed by a pointing hand at 6 o’clock.

The first piece sports a vintage silhouette with its salmon shade, the second with its silver dial set a more traditional pace and the third adorns itself with black. All have a sun-brushed dial. The model is rated to 50 meters of water resistance and is fitted on an alligator leather strap matching the dial’s colour – dark brown, navy blue or black – all fastened by a steel folding buckle.

With a water resistance up to 50 meters, the Classic Date Manufacture is equipped with a self-winding calibre ornate with fan-shaped côtes de Genève.


Click here to read the full Classic Date Manufacture technical sheet.

Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture, celestial body refinement

With its timeless elegance, the Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture reveals the new Classic steel case the manufacture chose to propose in 40 mm.

The Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture with its green sun-brushed dial and matching leather strap.

The model sports a refined sun-brushed dial with thin hands powered by the self-winding calibre FC-716, last born of the manufacture. Developed in-house the calibre has a comfortable 72 hours power reserve. The watch can be put into rest for the whole weekend on Friday and be worn on Monday without any winding or time setting needed.

Visible through a sapphire crystal case back, the manufactured self-winding calibre is equipped with a cut out oscillating weight.

With its precise urban design, the watch features either a green, a silver or a blue dial. The Maison’s flagship timepiece has been designed for the connoisseurs who demand the best at the right price. Thanks to its reliability and performance, the piece is rated to 50 meters of water resistance. It features an alligator leather strap fastened with a steel folding buckle and is guaranteed 5 years.


Click here to read the full Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture technical sheet.



World Time with Date Reference 5330G-001, at the world’s pace

Launched as a limited edition at the Patek Philippe grand exhibition “Watch Art” held in Tokyo in June 2023, the Reference 5330 enters the manufacture’s regular collection. This new generation of World Time is 40 mm and in white gold. The model distinguishes itself by a patented date display synchronized with local time, a world first. The time is selected by the time zone at the 12 o’clock position on the city disk and indicated by the centre hands.

Patek Philippe’s World Time Reference 5330G-001.

To guarantee this useful function, Patek Philippe developed the self-winding 240 HU C calibre with an innovative central differential system enabling the date to be displayed on the dial’s rim. Easy to use, the transparent glass hand with a hammer-shaped tip in red moves depending on the selected time zone. This World Time watch sports an opaline blue-grey dial adorned with a carbon motif.

The date glass hand with a hammer-shaped tip in red lacquer.

Stamped with the Patek Philippe hallmark, this marvel of functionalities for great travellers has a water-resistance up to 30 meters. The watch is fitted on a calfskin leather strap with a denim pattern fastened by an 18-carat white gold folding buckle.

Geneva Seal certified the ultra-flat self-winding mechanical movement is equipped with a 22-carat gold oscillating weight.


Click here to read the full World Time Reference 5330G-001 technical sheet.

Golden Ellipse Reference 5738/1R-001, golden hour

Patek Philippe’s Golden Ellipse Reference 5738/1R-001.

This year, the manufacture with the Patek Philippe Seal, a mark of excellence, introduces the self-winding Golden Ellipse Reference 5738/1R-001 mounted on a reimagined chain-style bracelet in 18-carats rose gold.

The bracelet offers three adjustment positions.

Supple and easily adjustable on every wrist, the patented bracelet answers the demand of users who do not wish to wear their watches on leather straps. Result of 15 years of development it comprises 363 elements.

The bracelet comprises 363 elements, of which more than 300 links mounted by hand.

The bracelet gives a new dynamic to the thinnest watch of the manufacture. Powered by the infamous ultra-thin self-winding Calibre 240 with a 22-carats gold micro-rotor, the piece is rated to 30 meters of water-resistance. The harmoniously proportioned case is inspired by the Golden Ratio and sports a sunburst ebony dial enhanced by applied baton-type rose gold hour markers and slim cheveu-type rose gold hands.


Click here to read the full Golden Ellipse technical sheet.


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