Watches and Wonders 2024: Episode #5

Meeting independents and less renowned Maison during an event is always a pleasure. Both graphically and mechanically accomplished, the watches of these passionate watchmakers were made for a discerning clientele wishing to cultivate a sense of difference with taste, poetry and, above all, originality. Here is the program of episode 5!

By Vincent Daveau


Chronomètres FB 1RES.4 and FB 2RES.6, double safety

For those not acquainted, this is worth recalling in a few words who was Ferdinand Berthoud (1727-1807). During the Age of Enlightenment, this watchmaker born in Neuchâtel and who died in France, was Horologist-Mechanic by appointment to the King and the Navy.  He engineered chronometers as did the English watchmakers John Harrison – whom he was missioned to spy by Louis XV – and John Arnold, his direct competitor.

The Choronomètre FB 1RES.4 from Ferdinand Berthoud Maison, available at the Watchmakers booth during Watches and Wonders 2024.

Passionate about this watchmaker for a long time, Chopard’s copresident Karl-Friedrich Scheufele created the eponym brand to celebrate his work through contemporary timepieces. Four years ago, the young Maison introduced its second calibre baptised FB 2RE. This calibre won several prices for its precision and its original structure which combines tradition and modernity.

For 2024, the COSC (the Official Swiss Chronometers Testing Institute) certified chronometer movement has been manufactured in only 38 copies and can be customised – platinum and bridges – and housed in one of the two 44 mm cases – round or octagonal – available in different materials – steel, titanium, ceramized titanium, yellow gold or rose gold. This panel of options can create more than 200 variations, perfect for collectors wishing to have a unique piece.

The cogs of the Chronomètre FB 2RES.6 calibre are legible through the sapphire crystal case back.

The round version has the FB 2RES reference and the octagonal one the FB 1RES. Both houses the new Chronomètre FB RES manual winding calibre (RES stands for Squeleton Equalizer Winder) with an indicator of power reserve at 9 o’clock. Inspired by Ferdinand Berthoud’s movement part of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele private collection, it is regulated by a Swiss anchor escapement and the kinematic chain is driven by a spring barrel associated with a mechanism called fusee.

The Chronomètre FB 2RES.6 Ferdinand Berthoud.

The role of this mechanism which uses a microscopic chain of 790 components, is to provide a constant force to the gear train by equalising the spring’s torque. Clearly not enough, the watchmakers added to this already accomplished mechanic heart an equalizer winder – a spring loaded every second to transmit a constant force to the regulating group – coupled to a visible mechanism enabling a display called ‘deadbeat seconds’ – the hand ticks every second like in a quartz watch.

Price upon request

Click here to read the full Chronomètre FB 1RES.4 technical sheet.
Click here to read the full Chronomètre FB 2RES.6 technical sheet.


RESSENCE, Type 1° Round Multicolor, kaleidoscopic regulator

All contemporary and refined watches lovers know Ressence. Proud to associate a Belgian design to the Swiss watchmaking expertise, the brand introduces this year a coloured version of the Type 1° Round released in 2023.

The Type 1° Round Multicolor from Ressence introduced during Watches and Wonders 2024.

Artists will be conquered by the primal colours used for the dial which seems to blend with the sapphire crystal.  Domed in subtle way, this round pebble-shape like piece of 42.7 mm has been crafted in grade 5 titanium. In this regulator type dial configuration – hours, minutes and seconds are apart – the hour is read in green with a simplified design. The date is in red with a specific design to recognise the two days of the weekend.

Inspired by graphic arts, the Type 1° M adds touches of soft primal colours evoking a carefully realized paper impression.

The model is fitted on a rubber strap and powered by an ETA 2892 self-winding mechanical calibre associated to a ROCS 1.3 module, a convex orbital system developed and patented by Ressence. As for every Ressence’s watch, the hours setting is done on the case back and rewinds in the meantime the barrel’s mechanism and loading, ensuring 36 hours of power reserve.

CHF 18,135

Click here to read the full RESSENCE Type 1° Round Multicolor technical sheet.


TRILOBE, The Matinaux l’Heure Exquise, celestial poem

This watch housing the first complication in the collection Les Matinaux is a dedicated poem to our moon and to Paul Verlain’s poem “l’Heure Exquise”. This model is available in 38.5 mm and in 40.5 in titanium and in 40.5 mm in rose gold.

The Trilobe Les Matinaux l’Heure Exquise in rose gold fitted on a navy-blue leather strap.

The watch was born in Trilobe’s offices, a young Maison assuming – if not claiming – to be based in Paris. Almost located on the meridian of the same name and at a stone throw from the Opéra Garnier, it gives free rein to its creativity. In this new case, which displays the hours with impertinence, the sky opens at the heart of the dial. Three variations are available– Dune, Blue or Secret – with matte and sandblasted finishes.

The titanium and sand dial version.

The model reveals a shining dance of stars mounted on a thin crystal sapphire. The glowing moon was lasered and split to be displayed in both hemispheres. The hypnotic ensemble is powered by the new exclusive X-Centric self-winding by micro-rotor mechanical calibre. Available in a limited edition of 100 pieces and rated to 50 meters of water-resistance, the watch is mounted on an alligator leather strap.

€26,500 Les Matinaux l’Heure Exquise – Blue – Rose gold
€14,500 Les Matinaux l’Heure Exquise – Dune – Titanium


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