I’m blue, daba dee daba dial
Omega, Bvlgari, Zenith, Herbelin, Tudor, Vulcain, Beaubleu… These watchmaking Maisons have given the colour blue a special place in their collection, for it always creates waves of success. Frank Sans C and Theo, founder of the website Le Calibre, reveal all the secrets of these watches, which will blue you away.
OMEGA, De Ville Prestige Co-Axial Master Chronometer 41 mm
And we’re opening the dance with the Omega De Ville Prestige Co-Axial Master Chronometer, one of the many new references revealed by the watchmaking Maison at the end of 2022 (see our previous article “Dials: not just a pretty face…“).
This timeless collection is the heir of the Seamaster De Ville: its distinctive watches show off beautiful dials ‒ sun-brushed, with a vertical brushed finish and stamped with “Clous-de-Bienne” patterns ‒ which can only stop you in your tracks. Here is the automatic, 41-mm version, certified as a Master Chronometer.
The PVD dial, inside of the “triple-apple bassine” case, shows off an icy, electric blue colour. The meticulously worked dial offers a clear display of Omega’s exclusive 2-in-1 finish: the surface combines a random vertical pattern and a radiant sun-brushed finish, for an overall very effective result. This decoration highlights the power reserve indicator, a 270° crescent cut-out shape separated in 4 sections, and the date aperture, both placed at 6 o’clock. The elegant overall design is delivered with a navy blue, alligator leather strap.
€6,100
BVLGARI, Lvcea Intarsio Aventurine
Of all the watches on set, the Bvlgari Lvcea Intarsio Aventurine is the utmost jewellery watch. With its shining bezel, it gravitates in the watchmaking universe.
The captivating dial displays a 3D marquetry background, with its fair share of grooves. Inspired by a Métiers d’Art technique called “intarsia”, it was assembled by hand to evoke sunrays and crafted in aventurine of a deep blue colour. Aventurine blue is obtained through an old technique of incorporating copper oxide and black cobalt into molten glass. The result: a dazzling dial, with shining particles reminiscent of a starry night sky. In stark contrast, the watch displays eleven diamond indices and a 3 o’clock date aperture. The dial is protected by a steel, 33-mm case.
The bezel was set with round brilliant-cut diamonds and the crown was set with a synthetic cabochon-cut rubellite and a single diamond. This celestial beauty is delivered with a matching blue leather bracelet and powered by an automatic manufacture calibre. The inner workings and “Côtes-de-Genève”-decorated oscillating weight are exposed through the sapphire caseback.
€12,000
Click here to read the Bvlgari Lvcea Intarsio Aventurine full technical sheet.
ZENITH, Defy Revival A3690
This watch is the sister of the new A3691 watch, equipped with a crimson red dial and revealed during this year’s LVMH Watch Week. This time, the Defy Revival A3690 by Zenith comes dressed in a beautiful gradient teal blue dial.
This model was inspired by a 1970s reference and brings back all the singular design elements of the timepieces from that era: a “bank vault” octagonal case with faceted angles, a fourteen-sided bezel, a gradient dial, square hour markers featuring horizontal grooves and a Gay Frères steel “ladder” bracelet. In fact, the sapphire crystal, the display caseback and the luminescent pigments are the only elements that are different from its sister’s.
There’s actually one last difference, hidden inside the piece. The watch features the automatic Elite 670 manufacture movement, operating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), providing a power reserve of 50 hours and displaying an oscillating weight with the Maison’s emblematic star in openwork.
€7,500
Click here to read the Zenith Defy Revival A3690 full technical sheet.
HERBELIN, Antarès
This special anniversary Antarès model was unveiled for the 75th anniversary of French watchmaking Maison Herbelin. It comes dressed in a natural blue agate dial: its multiple reflections give each model unique nuances.
The dial displays stylised hands which are powered by a Swiss Made quartz movement (Ronda). The rectangular, 316L steel case shows off thin dimensions (27 mm x 19 mm) and a modern, Art Deco inspired design. The faceted, polished geometric lines of the case capture and mirror the light. The piece is customisable ‒ one of the main features of the iconic Antarès collection ‒ thanks to the intuitive interchangeable strap system. Since about thirty colours of strap are available, this watch can transform to your liking, or according to your outfit.
€689
Technical details:
316L steel case
Sapphire crystal
Rectangular case: 27 mm x 19 mm
30-m water resistance
Blue agate dial
Functions: hours and minutes
Blue, velvet strap with leather lining
Swiss Made quartz movement (Ronda) ‒ 54-month power reserve
TUDOR, Submariner – Vintage edition
This Submariner by Maison Tudor was selected among all the collector’s watches available at Jean Lassaussois’s boutique, located at 58, rue de Rennes in Paris, in the 6th arrondissement.
This 40-mm vintage model from 1996 has played a big part in the history of the watchmaking Maison. With its serrated directional bezel, screwed-in crown, hands and indices covered in luminescent material and 200-m water resistance, the watch displays all the features of a true diving instrument. The full-on retro design includes an intense blue dial reminiscent of the azure colour of the sea. Unfortunately, the Submariner would only navigate the Tudor collections until 1999. Still, it would remain as the worthy heir of the Pelagos lines and other Black Bay watches.
6,900 €
Technical details:
Steel case, 40-mm
Date aperture at 3 o’clock with a magnifying Cyclops lens
Blue dial
Automatic movement
200-m water resistance
Folding buckle
12-month guarantee
LASSAUSSOIS’S COLLECTOR’S WATCHES WEBSITE
VULCAIN, SkinDiver Nautique
The SkinDiver Nautique diving watch by Vulcain was inspired by a 1960 model and displays a beautiful blue dial with a subtle, vertical brushed finish.
The dial ‒ protected by a slightly domed sapphire crystal for more depth ‒ features graphic luminescent hands and indices. As for the robust, shock-resistant case in 316L steel, it is equipped with a rotating unidirectional bezel and a contrasting black ceramic insert. This version is delivered with a black leather strap with a carbon pattern and topstitching. It is powered by a precise automatic calibre with a 38-hour power reserve.
€1,500
Technical details:
316L steel case with a vertical brushed finish ‒ 38 mm
Rotating unidirectional bezel with a black ceramic insert
Polished, 316L steel caseback
Blue dial with a vertical brushed finish, white printing and khaki brown Luminova indices
Domed sapphire crystal
200-m water resistance
Black leather strap with a carbon pattern and matching topstitching
316L solid steel buckle
ETA 2824 movement ‒ Self-winding mechanism
Functions: Analog display of hours, minutes and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
38-hour power reserve
BEAUBLEU, Vitruve GMT Bleu
No pun intended, but it would have been a shame to not include Beaubleu (French for “Beautiful blue”) in our show on blue dials. Especially given that the Vitruve GMT Bleu features not just one, but two specific characteristics.
This watch features not just one, but two crowns, which are hidden on both sides of the 39-mm case. The colour blue, which is often associated with dreams, takes over the design of this model with a quite poetic complication called “dual time”: the watch displays a second time zone, visible on the rehaut of the dial.
This model is no ordinary watch! It is delivered with a navy blue leather strap and powered by a reliable and robust Miyota 9015 automatic movement, providing an approx. 42-hour power reserve. The watch was produced in a limited edition of 888 pieces and assembled at Beaubleu’s workshops in Paris.
Price: with leather strap ‒ €980; with steel bracelet ‒ €1,110
Technical details:
Steel case, 39 mm ‒ Brushed and polished finishes
Open caseback
Miyota Automatic 9015 Slim movement
42-hour power reserve
GMT function
30-m water resistance
Lacquered, navy blue dial
Light blue grained finish
Bezel for the second time zone
Scratch-resistant, anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Handmade leather strap or steel bracelet.
SEE THE BEAUBLEU WATCH ON WINDHEURE.COM
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