As the saying goes, “history is written by the winners”, which might be true for this Christmas watches selection. Choosing them was no easy feat since there is a myriad of watches from great watchmaking Maisons in the 340 m2 area of the new Lassaussois boutique “Les Montres – Les Bijoux” (58 rue de Rennes, Paris).
Jean Lassaussois and Frank Sans C chose the ones you see in the video, which aroused much debate between the two experts: “This one? Of course! This one? Hum, not sure… what about this one? No way! Ok, so this one? Without a shadow of a doubt!” You know by now that Frank has a sharp tongue and it was not possible to choose them all! Does that mean we’ll get a second video? While we wait, here are nine beautiful collection watches, from the best watchmaking Maisons. Great Christmas gift ideas for your loved ones, or for you!
TAG HEUER Carrera Twin-Time, dual time zone
Last October, TAG Heuer announced Ryan Gosling as its new ambassador and revealed its new collection with thirteen new models of the Carrera Three-Hand.
Among them, this 41mm diameter Twin-Time model reveals a deep blue sunray dial showcasing a GMT hand, a 24-hour scale and a silver and blue outer flange with a day/night indicator. Elegant and sporty, this model is powered by a high-performance automatic calibre that will certainly seduce lovers of fine pieces of machinery.
Price: € 3,000
Reference number: WBN201A.BA0640
LONGINES Heritage Military 138, the revival of a inter-war period watch
By releasing the Heritage collection, Longines brings back watches that have marked its rich and long history. Indeed, the Saint-Imier Maison has had the time to secure a great legacy since its creation… in 1832!
Longines has chosen to reinterpret one of its inter-war military watches looking as close to the original as possible (one could even say it is a reissue): the Heritage Military 1938 is available in a limited series of 1938 numerated pieces (€ 2,320).
True to the original piece, down to the smallest details
Have you ever seen a watch with a “sea-urchin” crown? Well, you have now! The component is even ribbed for a better grip. With its 43mm diameter, the steel case features a bevelled bezel and a domed anti-reflection sapphire crystal. The matte black dial displays excellent visibility and its cream-coloured elements contribute to the retro look.
Baton style hands, Arabic numerals, “railway” scale (edged decoration and small seconds at 6 o’clock): everything is a reminder of the historical piece. Powered by a hand-wound mechanical movement (53 hours of power reserve), the watch is available with a distressed leather strap and a cognac-coloured NATO-style leather strap (a tool is provided).
RESERVOIR GT Tour 371 SE Watch, inspired by the automotive world
The young French brand has managed to build its brand recognition thanks to its car dashboards inspired watches.
The display is like nothing else with its three complications: jumping hour with an aperture at 6 o’clock that looks just like a rev counter, opened case-back at 240 degree like a tachometer and a power reserve (circular arc aperture at 6 o’clock) looking like a fuel or oil gauge.
The originality of the dial lies in the patented proprietary module on ETA 2824-2 Swiss Made calibre, which is visible on the case back.
The universe of car races as the brand’s inspiration
At Reservoir, the GT Tour versions clearly take its inspiration from the cars that one can admire on classic car races.
With an orange hand like the vintage odometers and a matte black sandblast dial as a reference to the asphalt of the legendary circuits, the GT Tour 371 SE is a limited edition of up to 371 pieces in black PV stainless steel case (€ 3,850). The 43mm diameter case is available with perforated black calf leather with orange stitching and lining for a nice “racing” effect. The case also contains a spare NATO strap.
TUDOR Black Bay Bronze, diving icon
Inspired by the diving watches designed by Tudor between the 1950s and the 1970s; Black Bay is the absolute icon of the manufacture and many new models are featured in this new line. All of them present a big crown, “snowflake” hands (a true aesthetic tribute) and domed sapphire crystal: typical features that are a direct legacy of the first generation watches. A good option for a Christmas watch.
It is only natural to find the same features on this 43mm Black Bay Bronze edition with a slate-grey dial (€ 3,890). Made with bronze, a metal that reacts to its environment, the case will change over time and produce a unique patina that will further affirm the instrument’s vintage character.
A retro look, technical components and a modern calibre for the Black Bay watch
Water-resistant up to 200m, the watch is equipped with a unidirectional rotatable bezel with 60-minute graduated disc in aluminium to calculate immersion times. Its dial showcases luminescent hands and markers for excellent legibility under any circumstance.
The Black Bay bronze holds a Manufacture Tudor automatic movement certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with a non-magnetic silicon balance spring and a 70-hour power reserve.
Last detail about the beautiful fabric strap: it is woven by the French handicraft enterprise “Julien Faure” near Saint-Étienne. Cocorico!
BREITLING Chronomat B0142, an aerial chronograph
This is a watch that you will find under many Christmas trees. Launched in 1984, the Chronomat collection by Breitling is based on the Frecce Tricolori chronograph, which was developed in 1983 for the Italian aerial squadron. Some decades later, it has become one of the emblematic watches of the Maison and, since, many new models have been launched either for men but also for women (read our articles on the Chronomat becomes a Super-model and Breitling and te new feminine Chronomat).
COSC-certified chronometer, the chronograph chosen by Jean Lassaussois features a 42 mm steel case and a unidirectional bezel with four rider tabs. Like a “panda dial” watch, its silver coloured dial displays three black subdials powered by a calibre of remarkable manufacture. The originality of this instrument lies, among other things, on the signature “Rouleaux” bracelet.
Price: € 7,900
Reference number: AB0134101G1A1
Calibre Breitling 01 (Manufacture)
Self-winding mechanical movement
Power reserve: approx. 70 hours
¼th second chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers
Vibration: 28,800 v.p.h
Calendar: dial aperture
Stainless steel case
Screwed in (sapphire crystal)
Water resistance: 200m
Unidirectional, ratcheted bezel
Screw-locked crown, two gaskets
Cambered sapphire crystal, glareproofed both sides
Stainless steel strap
Colour: metal bracelet
Warranty duration: 5 years
OMEGA Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer, an “upgraded” emblematic chronograph
Another icon from the watchmaking world, selected by Jean Lassaussois. The Omega Speedmaster (the famous chronograph that was worn Apollo 11 astronauts during the moon landing on July 1969) was greatly improved this year. Indeed, the collection has welcomed a new generation of instruments that feature the last innovations from the manufacture.
At first, you won’t see it, but under its vintage look (we have to admit that they look a lot like the historical piece) this chronograph reveals the manual-winding calibre 3861, which is a new movement by Omega and is certified Master Chronometer by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS) (Read our article about new Speedmaster).
An antimagnetic movement and a retro style for the Speedmaster
Visible on the case back of this 42 mm steel instrument adorned by a hesalite crystal (€ 6,700), the calibre is not only COSC-certified but is also resistant to extreme magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss, which is as strong as an MRI.
That’s not all, since the criteria for “chronometer” certification goes beyond those of COSC (which tolerates -4 sec to +6 sec per day). METAS tolerates 0 to 5 seconds per day.
HUBLOT Big Bang Unico Chronograph 42 Black Magic, a black beauty
The chronograph function and the black ceramic highlight both sporty and high-tech styles of the watch. The very atypical Big Bang Unico Black Magic illustrates the “Art of Fusion” savoir-faire of the Manufacture Hublot. The 42 mm case holds a bezel with 6 H-shaped screws (the collection’s signature) and a skeletonized dial through which the inner workings are visible. At the heart of this 100 m water-resistant watch lays the UNICO automatic movement. It is equipped with a flyback function that allows, in a single operation, to reset the running time and start a new one.
Price: € 19,600
Reference number: 441.CI.1171.RX
Microblasted and polished black ceramic case
Diameter: 42 mm
Microblasted and polished black ceramic 6 H-shaped titanium screws bezel
Water resistance: 100m or 10 ATM
Sapphire with anti-reflective treatment
Matte black skeleton dial
UNICO manufacture self-winding chronograph flyback movement with column wheel
Power reserve: 72 hours
Black structured subber straps
Black ceramic and black-plated titanium deployant buckle clasp
TRILOBE Nuit Fantastique, magical duo, two Christmas watches…
It’s not one but two Trilobe Nuit Fantastique models that mr. Lassaussois has found for us. Both pieces, blue or grained silver dial, display time in an unusual way. Indeed, the young French Maison knows how to play its cards right by equipping its watches with a Swiss Made self-winding mechanical calibre that holds a patented module called “X-centric”. Created by the talented watchmaker Jean-François Mojon, this exclusive system animates two rotating rings, one for the minutes and one for the seconds. But let’s be clear about it: even stopped, they give the right time twice a day.
Price: € 8,300
Reference number: NF01BG/NF01AG
Self-winding intergrated mechanical calibre with micro-rotor
48 hours of power reserve
Balance frequency: 28’800 vph (4Hz)
Functional rubies: 33
Total components: 230
Thickness 5.78mm – Diameter: 35.2mm
Made of 316L stainless steel or rose gold
Domed bezel with sapphire crystal and double anti-reflective treatment
Mirror-polished surfaces alternating with satin-brushed treatments
Brought horns. Sapphire back.
Water-resistance tested to 5 bars (approximately 50 meters) for the steel version and 3 bars (approximately 30 meters) for the gold version
Thickness: 8.8mm – Diameter: 40.5mm and 38.5mm
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds subdial displayed by rotating rings and fixed indicators
A display concept composed of three devices representing the hours, minutes and seconds located on the same plane as the dial
Leather with a pin buckle
Warranty: 24 months from the date of delivery
BLANCPAIN Fifty Fathoms Automatic, the modern diver’s watch from the 1950s
You know this Blancpain watch by now. Created in 1953 for the French naval officers, it is one of the first modern diver’s watches. The timepiece displays a one-way rotating bezel to calculate diving time and a dial with luminous (radium in the 1950s) hand and markers.
Nearly 70 years later, the Super-LumiNova has replaced the radioactive material (radium mining has been banned in Swiss in 1963) and its design has slightly changed but one glance is enough to recognize a Fifty Fathoms, mainly thanks to its characteristic bezel with luminescent markers, which is protected by a bombed sapphire crystal.
An emblematic design with the lightness of titanium
The Fifty Fathoms Automatic (€ 14,670) revealed in the video is no exception: water-resistant up to 300 m, its 45 mm titanium case is as light, robust and extremely resistant to corrosion.
The watch is available with a sailcloth strap and is fitted with a sapphire crystal on the back, which allows us to see the Calibre 1315 Blancpain automatic. A movement with three barrels that ensure 5 days of power reserve and with a balance spring made of silicon.
MANY THANKS FOR THE WARM WELCOME TO
BOUTIQUE LASSAUSSOIS LES MONTRES – LES BIJOUX
58, rue de Rennes, 75007 Paris
Phone number: 01 46 34 71 38