Watches & Wonders 2023: Episode #4… fourth and last!
That’s a wrap for our shows dedicated to Watches and Wonders 2023. Frank Sans C handed the mic to COO of France Oris Vincent Coquet, CEO of Piaget Benjamin Comar, Founder and CEO of Trilobe Gautier Massonneau, CEO of Rebellion Alexandre Pesci and to Christian Ferrier, son of Laurent Ferrier. The cream of the crop, and some exclusive interviews worthy of your attention. Action!
ORIS
ProPilot x Kermit Edition
Oris’s “show” at Watches and Wonders 2023 featured the new ProPilot from the watchmaking Maison’s recent collaboration with The Muppets by Disney. Special guest star Kermit the frog does not hold back and shows off his personality and humour in the commercial film dedicated to this famous character, who never fails to make us laugh.
This new watch might trigger some laughs and that is very intentional on Oris’s part. Every first day of the month, the iconic batrachian looks out from the date aperture at 6 o’clock: it’s “Kermit Day”. This fun, main attraction is visible through a domed sapphire crystal and displayed on a bright, green dial.
This 100-m-water-resistant dial perfectly contrasts the 39-mm titanium case, a perfect fit for all wrist sizes. The watch is powered by the Calibre 400, a high-performance automatic movement with a precision of –3/+5 seconds per day, anti-magnetism and a generous power reserve of approximately 120 hours. This special edition is delivered with a titanium bracelet with the exclusive, ORIS-patented “LIFT” system. Will Piggy or Gonzo come next? Only time will tell!
€4,400
Click here to read the ProPilot x Kermit Edition full technical sheet.
Big Crown Calibre 473
At the end of the 2000s, Oris launched its movement creation program with very clear and precise specifications: the calibres should be unique, mechanical, Swiss Made and affordable.
After the Calibre 110 (2014) and the Calibre 400 (2020), it is now time for the Calibre 473 to make its way into Oris collections. At the heart of a Big Crown Pointer Date model sits this new manual-winding mechanical movement, developed and designed in Oris workshops for four years. It powers the classic hour and minute hands, the small second hand as well as the iconic red arrow Pointer Date. Most notably, it displays a power reserve indicator of 120 hours, which is visible from the back and very useful to know exactly when to wind the watch.
This 38-mm, steel edition features the distinctive characteristics of a Big Crown watch and a beautiful blue dial matching with an ever-vintage olive brown strap in deer leather, crafted by Cervo Volante, an Oris partner (see our previous article: “Oris and Cervo Volante: deer leather bracelets”).
€4,200
Click here to read the Big Brown Calibre 473 full technical sheet.
PIAGET
Polo Perpetual Calendar in obsidian
For this year’s Watches and Wonders, Piaget revealed the jewellery version of their Polo Perpetual Calendar watch.
The dial of this piece – closely tied to the horological, poetic perpetual calendar complication – is made of obsidian, a blue decorative stone. It alternates between silver and iridescent sparkles which result from the encapsulation of liquid sulphur drops – rich in minerals – into the obsidian while they solidify. The watch is enhanced with a precious bezel set with 56 brilliant-cut sapphires and displays a 42-mm cushion-shaped case in white gold, water resistant up to 30 m. It displays the day, the date, the month and a moon phase, and is powered by an ultra-thin automatic movement of only 4-mm thickness. This movement is decorated with a Côtes-de-Genève finish and equipped with a blue oscillating weight engraved with the coat-of-arms of the manufacture. This gorgeous piece is delivered with interchangeable straps: a leather strap and a blue rubber strap.
€117,000
Technical details:
Cushion-shaped case, white gold, 42 mm
Blue obsidian dial
30-m water resistance
Bezel set with 56 brilliant-cut sapphires
Sapphire crystal caseback
Perpetual calendar mechanical movement, ultra-thin, automatic winding of the hours, minutes, and moon phases
Retrograde day display at 9 o’clock, month display at 12 o’clock, year display at 12 o’clock and date display at 3 o’clock.
42-hour power reserve
Thickness: 4 mm
Finishing: Circular Côtes-de-Genève, wheels with sunburst motif, engraved coat-of-arms, beaded and bevelled bridges, blued screws on bridges, blue oscillating weight.
Altiplano Ultimate Automatic
The Altiplano Ultimate Automatic, winner of the Mechanical Exception Award at GPHG 2021, is an ultra-thin watch with only 4.3-mm thickness. The key to this technical feat lies in the complexity of its inner workings.
As the baseplate, the caseback is an association of multiple elements assembled one by one by the manufacture’s best watchmakers. Currently, this Piaget piece is available in a 41-mm, rose gold version. True to the identity of the Altiplano collection, the watch displays an intense blue dial way out of the centre which indicates hours and minutes and alternates between dual or simple indices. This edition, water resistant up to 20 m, is powered by a self-winding calibre with a 48-hour power reserve. This elegant piece is delivered with a midnight blue, alligator leather strap.
€36,000
Technical details:
Rose gold case, 41 mm
Thickness: 4.30 mm
Ultra-thin mechanical movement 910P of Piaget manufacture, self- winding
Frequency of 3 Hz
48-hour power reserve
20-m water resistance
Midnight blue, alligator leather strap
TRILOBE
Une Folle Journée Diamant
This reference had already made an impression at Watches and Wonders 2022: this time, the Une Folle Journée watch by young watchmaking Maison Trilobe wows in a hypnotic, high jewellery variation. Its most hypnotic feature is doubtless the X-Centric movement, which built its reputation as a unique timepiece.
The 40.5-mm case, in either rose gold or platinum, shows off an architectural dial inspired by the ceiling of the Opéra de Paris. Its colossal, sculptural chandelier of 314 lights with a “diamond belt” sheds a light onto Marc Chagall’s artwork, representative of the famous Parisian monument. The three rotating rings of the watch represent the three circles of ceiling lights. The three rings are placed every 10 mm and display the hours, minutes and seconds, a signature design patented by the brand.
The Trilobe signature setting
The eccentric rings are set with 150 high-traceability, baguette diamonds, which required the expertise and savoir-faire of an expert setter. The various precious stones are set through an invisible opening and then slide along the ring, thanks to a system developed exclusively by Trilobe. To enable the reading of the time, a French miniaturist artist hand-painted the 12 indicators. A task that required rigor and precision to ensure the numerals keep equal proportions. This watch is more than a timepiece: it is a masterpiece, a completed collection piece.
In Platinum – €170,000 (excl. taxes)
In Rose Gold – €160,000 (excl. taxes)
Technical details:
X-Centric Calibre
Self-winding integrated mechanical calibre with micro-rotor
48-hour power reserve
Frequency of 28,800 V/h (4 Hz)
Overall display concept with three devices representing the hours, minutes and seconds
Hours by rotating ring and a fixed pointer SuperLuminova
Rose gold or platinum case, 40.5 mm
Mirror-polished surfaces alternating with satin-brushed treatments
Brought lugs
Domed bezel with sapphire crystal
Sapphire caseback
30-m water resistance
150 baguette diamonds with 70 on the hours ring, 50 on the minutes ring and 30 on the seconds ring.
REBELLION
T-500 Ultimate Racing Machine
The design of the streamlined and atypical timepieces of the young watchmaking Maison Rebellion highlights their motor racing blood.
The new T-500 Ultimate Racing Machine defies the preconceptions of traditional watchmaking and shows off a distinctive titanium case in large dimensions (43 mm x 47.5 mm x 11 mm). This watch is a rebel down to the cog, as it proudly displays a skeleton dial visible through the sapphire crystal. Crafted by Concepto, the vertical manual-winding movement is made of six barrels which can be recharged using a lever. As for the hours and minutes, they are displayed on two parallel rollers in the centre. The barrels are engraved with a tire design and offer a power reserve of up to 450 hours. This technical instrument, delivered with a strap in black textile, is a true UFO in the world of watchmaking.
CHF 160,000
Technical details:
Titanium case
Dimensions: 43 mm x 47.5 mm x 11 mm
Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
100-m water resistance
Manual-winding movement developed by Concepto
Frequency of 28,000 V/h (4 Hz)
Strap in black textile, Velcro closure with black DLC titanium buckle
450-hour power reserve
LAURENT FERRIER
Classic Micro-Rotor Evergreen
The Laurent Ferrier manufacture is broadening its Micro-Rotor collection with two new iterations, including the Classic Micro-Rotor Evergreen in red gold.
This 40-mm watch, with its pure and elegant design, suits both men and women. Genderless, it displays a distinctive deep green dial with drop-shaped indices and red gold Assegai-shaped hands. This timeless round case is topped with a round “ball” winding crown, easier to grab and more comfortable to handle. The overall design houses the Maison’s representative automatic calibre (FBN 229.01), which is equipped with a high performing, natural escapement micro-rotor and a three-day power reserve. Delivered with a brown, calf leather strap, this edition lives up to the taste of all collectors of beautiful, neo-vintage timepieces.
CHF 57,500
Technical details:
Automatic winding movement
Unidirectional pawl-fitted micro-rotor
Silicon escapement with double direct impulse on the balance wheel
Centre hour and minute hands. Small seconds at 6 o’clock
Frequency of 21,600 V/h (3 Hz)
72-hour power reserve
Red gold case, 18K 5N 750, 40 mm
30-m water resistance
Red gold round ball-shaped crown
Deep green, vertical satin-brush finish dial
Drop-shaped, red gold indices
Traced, matte white logo
Red gold hands
Brown, calf leather strap, hand stitching, tone-on-tone Alcantara lining / Red gold pin buckle
Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit
The thrill of motor racing runs through the veins of this new Laurent Ferrier watch. The grade 5 titanium case of the Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit 44 mm displays a gradient salmon-pink dial, which was inspired by the colour of the sky at sunrise, at the 24 Hours of Le Mans circuit. An emblematic car race which Laurent Ferrier participated in multiple times. This sporty-elegant edition is powered by a manual-winding calibre with a power reserve of approximately 80 hours. Its double balance spring tourbillon is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. This timepiece, delivered on a three-link bracelet also in grade 5 titanium, will steal the hearts of collectors and lovers of neo-vintage, mechanical beauties.
CHF 175,000
Technical details:
Manual-winding movement calibre LF619.01
Frequency of 21,600 V/h (3 Hz)
80-hour power reserve
Centre hour and minute hands
Small second at 6 o’clock on tourbillon carriage pivot
Tourbillon carriage visible from the caseback
Tourbillon, double balance spring, head-to-tail mounted
Swiss lever escapement
Variable geometry balance wheel with screws
Peripheral tourbillon carriage drive
Grade 5 titanium case with a 44-mm diameter
Sapphire crystal caseback
100-m water resistance
Gradient salmon-pink dial
Grey gold hands and indices
Grade 5 titanium bracelet / Three links / folding clasp
See also:
Read also: