Episode 4: Bvlgari, Tudor, Zenith.
In this Episode 4, Bvlgari, Tudor and Zenith have managed to strike the right balance between design and an innovative approach to showcasing their mechanical movements, capturing attention in more ways than one. The highlight of the show: the folding clasp developed by Zenith, which caused quite a stir this year. Hats off to them…
BVLGARI
A symbol of Roman jewellery and a certain Italian way of life, Bvlgari was founded in Rome in 1884 by the talented Greek goldsmith Sotirio Bulgari. Since then, this House, with its incredible creative heritage, has continued to shine in the jewellery and watchmaking sectors with such iconic pieces as the stunning Serpenti, the famous Bvlgari Bvlgari collection launched in 1977, and the more recent Octo Finissimo collection, which was launched in 2014.
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo 37: squaring the circle
In an increasingly interconnected and globalised industry, a watch that appeals to everyone is part of a trend that has been growing since the 2020s. In keeping with this trend, Bvlgari presents the Octo Finissimo watch, with a 37 mm diameter.
Comprising four models, this new collection offers a wide audience a watch with a striking design that encourages those who choose it to express their desire to stand out from the crowd. And it’s the right choice, as these pieces have everything going for them, with a design so original that it catches the eye just as much as the 40 mm diameter models launched in 2014.
More versatile in this size, this watch is available in sandblasted titanium, polished and satin-finished titanium, and 18-carat yellow gold. These three models are powered by the same in-house mechanical self-winding calibre with a micro-rotor, known as the BVF 100, which is 2.35 mm thick. With a 72-hour power reserve, it features a regulating assembly oscillating at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hertz).
All three models are worn on the wrist on Octo straps with matching finishes, fitted with a concealed folding clasp. And because there are four of the Three Musketeers, the Octo Finissimo collection includes a fourth model, which is none other than the Octo Finissimo 37 Minute Repeater.
Powered by a hand-wound in-house calibre, the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater is crafted from sandblasted titanium, a material also renowned for its acoustic properties.
Clad in sandblasted titanium, this marvel of horological craftsmanship houses the ultra-thin, hand-wound BVL 362 calibre, which features the rare and sought-after complication that allows the watch to chime the hours, quarters and minutes on demand by pressing the push-button on the left side of the watch. Like all models, it is water-resistant to 30 metres; a remarkable feat for a timepiece equipped with such a complication.
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, minute repeater with two
hammers.
Octo Finissimo in sandblasted titanium – €17,700
View the technical specifications for the Octo Finissimo watch in sandblasted titanium.
Technical details:
Ultra-thin in-house BVF 100 self-winding movement with micro-rotor. The calibre is hand-finished with radiating Côtes de Genève and circular graining.
Thickness: 2.35 mm.
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz).
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds.
Power reserve: 72 hours
Extra-thin 37 mm case in sandblasted titanium. Screw-down crown in sandblasted titanium with black ceramic insert. See-through case back. Water resistance: 30 metres
Dial in titanium and opaline with black hands and hour markers.
Brushed titanium strap with integrated folding clasp and push-buttons.
Octo Finissimo in yellow gold – €50,700
View the technical specifications for the 37 mm Octo Finissimo in yellow gold.
Technical details:
Ultra-thin in-house BVF 100 self-winding movement with micro-rotor. The calibre is hand-finished with radiating Côtes de Genève and circular graining.
Thickness: 2.35 mm.
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz).
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds.
Power reserve: 72 hours
Extra-thin 37 mm case in satin-polished yellow gold.
Screw-down crown in yellow gold with black ceramic insert.
Sight-back.
Water resistance: 30 metres
Yellow gold dial with yellow gold-plated hour markers and hands.
Satin-polished yellow gold bracelet with integrated folding clasp and push-buttons.
Octo Finissimo in satin-polished titanium – €18,500
View the technical specifications for the Octo Finissimo in satin-polished titanium
Technical details:
Ultra-thin in-house BVF 100 self-winding movement with micro-rotor. The calibre is hand-finished with radiating Côtes de Genève and circular graining.
Thickness: 2.35 mm.
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz).
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds.
Power reserve: 72 hours
Extra-thin 37 mm case in satin-polished titanium.
Screw-down crown in polished titanium with black ceramic insert.
Sight-back.
Water resistance: 30 metres
Dial in titanium and opaline with rhodium-plated hands and hour markers.
Satin-polished titanium bracelet with integrated folding clasp and push-buttons.
Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater in sandblasted titanium – €161,200
View the technical specifications for the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater watch.
Technical details:
Ultra-thin in-house BVL 362 hand-wound movement.
Thickness: 3.12 mm.
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz).
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, minute repeater with two hammers.
Power reserve: 72 hours
Extra-thin 37 mm case in sandblasted titanium.
Screw-down crown in sandblasted titanium with black ceramic insert. See-through case back.
Water resistance: 30 metres
Dial in titanium and opaline with rhodium-plated grey hands and openwork hour markers.
Brushed titanium bracelet with integrated folding clasp and push-buttons
Serpenti Tubogas Studs – Capsule Collection: a jewellery and watchmaking trio
With this new four-piece capsule collection, Bvlgari revisits one of its most daring creative signatures: the combination of gold and steel. It ingeniously brings together the Serpenti creative concept, the ‘Tubogas’ manufacturing process for the elastic, flexible bracelet, and the clou, a decorative element used in jewellery.
In a way, Bvlgari creates a dialogue between jewellery themes and industrial style within a precious watch that has been iconic for over half a century. Striking and expressive, this collection combines diamonds, hardstone dials, mother-of-pearl and the coiled links of the bracelet, accented with gold. The various versions of the Serpenti transform the iconic reptile into an object of design and desire.
The Serpenti Tubogas Studs capsule embodies a particular facet of the Bvlgari style, where jewellery and watchmaking intertwine through the creative combination of gold and steel. Drawing on Bvlgari’s jewellery codes, the stud creates a unique geometric pattern on the supple Tubogas bracelet. Its pyramid-shaped facets accentuate the curves, transforming the bracelet into a sculptural jewel.
First appearing on Bvlgari’s jewellery creations, such as bracelets and necklaces, the stud adds a new dimension to the sensual silhouette of the Serpenti Tubogas watch. Whether polished or set with gemstones, it highlights the contemporary spirit of this now legendary serpent. The four cases measure 35 mm in diameter (slightly elongated to symbolise the reptile’s head) and house a high-precision Swiss-made quartz movement.
Water-resistant to 30 metres, these models are available as follows: the first is crafted from 18-carat yellow gold with a yellow gold Tubogas bracelet. It features a bezel set with brilliant-cut diamonds and diamond-set pyramid-shaped cubes. The second is in 18-carat rose gold and steel (steel case, bezel set with brilliant-cut diamonds in rose gold) and a bracelet alternating between steel links and 18-carat rose gold links.
The pyramid-shaped cubes are crafted from rose gold and set with diamonds. Two models are available in steel, featuring a yellow bezel set with brilliant-cut diamonds (38 stones totalling 0.3 carats). One features a mother-of-pearl dial and the other a malachite dial. Both feature gold pyramid-shaped cubes on the bracelet.
Serpenti Tubogas: steel case / yellow gold bezel set with diamonds / white mother-of-pearl dial: €16,400
Technical details:
Quartz movement.
Functions: hours, minutes.
35 mm stainless steel case and yellow gold bezel set with 38 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.3 ct).
Yellow gold crown set with a cabochon-cut pink rubellite. Water resistance: 30 m.
White mother-of-pearl dial. Yellow gold-plated hour markers and hands. Steel bracelet adorned with 5 yellow gold studs.
Serpenti Tubogas Studs in yellow gold / yellow gold bezel set with gemstones / carnelian dial: €55,100
Quartz movement.
Functions: hours, minutes.
35 mm yellow gold case and yellow gold bezel set with 38 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.3 ct).
Yellow gold crown set with a cabochon-cut pink rubellite.
Water resistance: 30 m.
Carnelian dial. Yellow gold-plated hour markers and hands.
Yellow gold bracelet set with 5 yellow gold studs pavé-set with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.6 ct).
Serpenti Tubogas Studs in steel and rose gold / rose gold bezel set with diamonds / sodalite dial – €23,900
Quartz movement.
Functions: hours, minutes.
35 mm steel case and rose gold bezel set with 38 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.3 ct).
Rose gold crown set with a cabochon-cut pink rubellite.
Water resistance: 30 m.
Sodalite dial. Rose gold-plated hour markers and hands.
Steel and rose gold bracelet adorned with 5 rose gold studs set with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.6 ct).
Serpenti Tubogas: steel studs / yellow gold bezel set with gemstones / malachite dial – €16,800
Quartz movement.
Functions: hours, minutes.
35 mm steel case and yellow gold bezel set with 38 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.3 ct).
Yellow gold crown set with a cabochon-cut pink rubellite.
Water resistance: 30 m.
Malachite dial. Yellow gold-plated hour markers and hands.
Steel and yellow gold bracelet adorned with 5 yellow gold studs set with diamonds.
Bvlgari Bvlgari: engraving one’s name in mother-of-pearl
An evolution of the model launched in 1977, the Bvlgari Bvlgari watch in 18-carat yellow gold and steel embodies Italian creative audacity and a style inspired by ancient Rome. Famous for its double brand logo engraved on the bezel as a tribute to the inscriptions found on ancient Roman coins, this watch features a 33 mm steel case enhanced by an 18-carat gold bezel engraved in the same style as all its predecessors, and is adorned with a magnificent dial crafted from white mother-of-pearl marquetry. Crafted in the style of the mosaics found in the villas of the Empire or in Pompeii, it casts a thousand captivating reflections at the slightest glimmer of light and is adorned with 12 brilliant-cut diamond hour markers. This water-resistant creation, which transcends time and trends by blending the traditions of the past with Bvlgari’s vision of jewellery, is powered by a Swiss-made quartz movement to display the hours and minutes. The instantly recognisable timepiece is set on a magnificent textured bracelet combining steel and gold, and fastens at the wrist with an invisible folding clasp.
€12,000
View the technical specifications of the Bvlgari Bvlgari.
TUDOR
To highlight one’s noble heritage through an object
We all know that the brand name was registered in 1926 by Hans Wilsdorf, who himself founded Rolex in 1908. This year therefore marks the centenary of this watchmaking company, which has had its own movement manufacturing facility in Le Locle since 2016 – in other words, for the past 10 years. 2026 was therefore an important date and provided the occasion for the launch of two models whose names were chosen to evoke the noble origins of this brand, whose emblem is a medieval shield and, on occasion, a stylised rose.
Monarch: time-tested
The Monarch draws inspiration from the design of the brand’s earliest watches,
featuring a dark champagne ‘Error-Proof’ dial that displays two styles of numerals: Roman numerals from 10 to 2, and Arabic numerals from 4 to 8.
In its own way, this new model reflects the progress Tudor has made in reconnecting with its heritage. Indeed, this timepiece revisits one of the brand’s past collections and infuses it with a century of expertise. As in the past, it is the result of in-house production and a skilful partnership with some of the finest suppliers. Connoisseurs will note that the Monarch’s aesthetic evokes Tudor’s early days, with its 39 mm diameter case in finely facetted steel, its matching steel bracelet, and its dark champagne-coloured ‘papyrus’ dial featuring distinctive facetted hour markers that combine Roman numerals in the upper half of the dial with Arabic numerals in the lower half.
Water-resistant to 100 metres, this model is powered by a self-winding mechanical in-house calibre, reference MT5662-2U. Visible through the transparent case back, this movement, featuring high-end finishes (rotor with a layer of gold in the recesses of the engravings and openwork), is equipped with a stop-seconds mechanism and offers a 65-hour power reserve with a regulating assembly oscillating at 4 Hertz (silicon balance spring).
Certified by the COSC, the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute, this movement guarantees a precision of -2 to +4 seconds per day – exceeding the COSC standard (-4 to +6 seconds per day) – and is also certified as a Master Chronometer by METAS, the Federal Institute of Metrology. Pure and timeless, this watch is worn on a faceted two-link steel bracelet and fastens at the wrist with a special ‘T-fit’ folding clasp, allowing for precise adjustment when worn.
€5,400
View the technical specifications of the Tudor Monarch.
Tudor Royal: a regal watch
Sporty and elegant, Tudor’s Royal watch is one of the brand’s cornerstones. A long-standing feature of the brand’s catalogues, it naturally exudes style with charm and distinction. The range, available in three sizes – 30 mm, 36 mm and 40 mm – is complemented by a variety of dials to suit every taste. There is therefore a Tudor Royal to suit every wrist. Its distinctive fluted bezel, with its clean lines and polished finish, has been redesigned to enhance the overall appearance of the case.
The 40 mm version features a ‘day of the week’ complication. The joint between the case and the five-row bracelet (316L steel or steel with narrow yellow gold links) has also been redesigned so that the links cannot come into contact with the case under any circumstances, regardless of its position, in order to prevent any friction.
The Royal model, with a 30 mm diameter case, is available in all-steel with a steel bezel, in steel set with diamonds, or in yellow gold. Water-resistant to 100 metres, it features a dial available in various colours, with applied hour markers or applied hour makers and Roman numerals at the cardinal points. The watch is powered by the in-house MT 5201 calibre, whose accuracy is guaranteed to be within 3 to 5 seconds slow or fast per day. The watch fastens with an integrated folding clasp with a locking flap.
The 36 mm model offers the same bezel options as the previous model, along with a range of colourful dials (various options) featuring either simple, faceted applied hour markers, or a combination of diamond hour markers and Roman numerals, or Roman numerals alone. Also water-resistant to 100 metres, these marvels are powered by the in-house automatic calibre MT5412, which, with a power reserve of 70 hours, offers a daily accuracy of between 2 seconds slow and 4 seconds fast. Equipped with a stop-seconds mechanism, this calibre features a date window at 3 o’clock, in addition to the display of hours, minutes and seconds via a central seconds hand. Like the smaller models, these timepieces are worn on steel or steel and gold bracelets (depending on the version) and fasten with a folding clasp featuring a safety catch. Finally, the version featuring a 40 mm diameter case is powered by the in-house MT 5633 self-winding mechanical movement, whose precision characteristics are identical to those of the calibre powering the 36 mm diameter model.
The only major difference, however, is that this calibre—which also boasts a 70-hour power reserve—displays not only the time but also the day of the week in a large window at 12 o’clock and the date (semi-instantaneous jump) in the window traditionally positioned at 3 o’clock. Water-resistant to 100 metres, this series of models—available in steel, steel with a gem-set bezel, or steel with a gold bezel—is worn on matching straps and fastened with a safety folding clasp.
Tudor Royal (référence M2840D1A0-0003) 40 mm case and green dia : €3,360
Tudor Royal (référence M2836C1A0-0106) 36 mm with a blue dial : €3,130
Tudor Royal (référence M2830A1A3-0003) 30 mm case and champagne-coloured dial : €4,930
Black Bay Ceramic: the armour of the Black Knight
Throughout history, there have been Black Knights – those who had not sworn allegiance – and the Black Prince, otherwise known as Edward of Woodstock (1330–1376), the adversary of Bertrand du Guesclin during the Hundred Years’ War. Today, this virtually indestructible armour adorns the new Black Bay from Tudor, whose coat of arms features a knight’s shield. The analogy and the name are therefore clear. Having covered these historical points, let us return to the watch itself.
Popular with sports enthusiasts, this diving watch features a contemporary design that is complex to produce but offers the advantage of being incredibly scratch-resistant. For this neo-vintage edition, the 41 mm diameter case, 13.55 mm thick, is crafted from matt black ceramic. Water-resistant to 200 metres, this timepiece features a unidirectional rotating bezel in PVD-coated steel with a black ceramic insert.
Grade A Super-LumiNova®.
It features a PVD-coated steel screw-down crown and an equally black dial to emphasise its stealthy character. This timepiece, which one could easily entrust to Batman – the other modern-day dark prince – is powered by a self-winding mechanical in-house calibre, reference MT 5602 – U. This movement, offering a 70-hour power reserve with a regulating organ oscillating at 4 Hertz, is certified as a chronometer by the COSC and METAS. Thus equipped, this all-terrain watch is worn on a black ceramic strap and fastened with a folding clasp, also made of ceramic.
€7,040
View the technical specifications of the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic.
ZENITH
Chronomaster Sport Skeleton: in the spirit of remembrance
This year, the Le Locle-based manufacturer – which launched the market’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph in 1969 – presents a fresh take on this model, which has evolved over the decades, with the Chronomaster Sport Skeleton, featuring a redesigned openwork design.
It is worth noting here that this timepiece, with its 41 mm case whose design combines sporty and refined lines, is powered by the El Primero 3600 SK calibre. Also operating at a frequency of 5 Hz, its innovative construction allows for the direct reading of tenths of a second. Indeed, unlike traditional chronographs where the central hand completes a full rotation in one minute, this hand completes a full rotation in 10 seconds. Each mark thus corresponds to a tenth of a second, which can be read directly on the ceramic bezel graduated in 10-second intervals.
The sapphire dial, which is slightly smoked – dark at the edges and becoming transparent towards the centre – reveals the openworked architecture of the movement.
To ensure this model, which is water-resistant to 100 metres, remains trouble-free in the long term, the movement—visible from both the dial side and the case back—has been extensively skeletonised, allowing owners and their friends to view some of its intricate components.
As for the movement, which is visible through both the dial and the sapphire crystal case back, the El Primero 3600SK calibre reveals its blue column wheel and horizontal clutch.
Available in four versions, this short-time measuring instrument comes in two variants: one with a 316L stainless steel case, a green ceramic bezel and grey sub-dials, and the other with a black ceramic bezel and three-colour sub-dials (grey, anthracite and blue). Both are available with a three-link metal bracelet and a patented new-generation folding clasp, known as Zenclasp™, featuring micro-adjustments.
ZENCLASP™: Zenith’s new patented folding clasp.
These two models are supplied in a presentation box containing an additional rubber strap. The third version is available in 18-carat rose gold with a black ceramic bezel and a rubber strap.
Chronomaster Sport Skeleton – stainless steel and black ceramic bezel: €16,500
Chronomaster Sport Skeleton – stainless steel and green ceramic bezel: €16,500
Chronomaster Sport Skeleton – rose gold and black ceramic bezel: €31,200
G.F.J.: driven by a passion for timekeeping
With 2,333 chronometry awards won since its foundation, the Zenith manufacture belongs to the very exclusive circle of watchmaking companies for whom precision is an integral part of their development and image. To highlight this commitment, Zenith presents the G.F.J. watch in two versions: one in 18-carat yellow gold and the other in tantalum, a rare metal that has not been used by a brand for some time.
Only 20 examples of this latest version will be available. In both cases, the case measures 39.15 mm in diameter. The dial of the yellow gold version is crafted from bloodstone with a mother-of-pearl small seconds sub-dial. The dial of the tantalum model features a signature guilloché pattern with an onyx centre and a mother-of-pearl seconds sub-dial. At the heart of the watch beats Calibre 135, developed in the late 1940s specifically for the chronometry competitions held by astronomical observatories.
Its competition version, the 135-O, won 235 chronometry awards, including five consecutive first prizes at the Neuchâtel Observatory between 1950 and 1954 – a record that remains unbroken to this day. Visible through the transparent case back, this hand-wound mechanical movement has been reimagined for the 21st century. The calibre retains its 13-line diameter and 2.5 Hz frequency, whilst incorporating technical improvements adapted to contemporary standards.
It thus offers a power reserve of 72 hours. Its large, classic screw-mounted balance wheel is paired with a Breguet-style overcoil and the characteristic double-arrow regulator, enabling particularly precise adjustment. A stop-seconds mechanism ensures accurate time-setting. Each movement is regulated to an accuracy of ±2 seconds per day and is certified as a chronometer by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute). Both models are worn on an alligator leather strap (blue nubuck for the tantalum version and beige nubuck for the yellow gold version) and are presented in a box with two additional straps. The all-gold strap for the gold version is available on request.
On a leather strap: €54,000
On a gold strap: €107,100
View the technical specifications for the Zenith G.F.J. in gold with a jasper dial.
View the technical specifications for the Zenith G.F.J. in tantalum with an onyx dial – €82,700.
THE TIMEPIECES MENTIONED IN THE VOX POP WITH: FRANÇOIS-HENRI BENNAHMIAS, JULIA CARRIER-ANGEL, CONTENT CREATOR AND FOUNDER OF THE MEDIA WRISTMARVELS’, AND FRANÇOIS-XAVIER OVERSTAKE, FOUNDER OF THE MEDIA ‘L’ÉQUATION DU TEMPS’
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